I am getting back into making my own arrows (again) and have decided that I wanted to try my hand at cap dipping and cresting a dozen Carbon Express 150's. I spoke with a rep from 3Rivers today and he told me that it is hard to cap dip carbon shafts because the paint does cover well. Anyone else have any suggestions here? Do you clean the shafts with acetone or use steel wool to create a better base for the paint to adhere to? Thanks!
I've used Krylon spray paint for several years with good success.
Same here!
I crown dip all my shafts, wood, carbon and aluminum with Bohning Fletch Lac paints.
I clean all shafts thoroughly with 91% Isopropyl, let dry. I have never had problems with chipping or covering properly with Carbons.
The only shafts that I had problems painting were Easton XX75 Super Slams. Must be the finish on the shafts because the paint always seems to chip off.
Guys, I appreciate the input. There is just something really cool about making your own arrows and doing it the right way. I can't wait to see the end result. When I get there (hopefully shortly), I will post some pictures.
I have been dpping carbons for years in the bohning dip paints without any issues. i clean them well with acetone and dip just like aluminum.
I rough em up a little bit with sand paper and spray paint them.
It's been a number of years, but when doing GT's, 3 of us had the same issue. We'd clean with alcohol, even steel wool (0000) and wipe again and let dry.
We were using varied paints, water base and solvent base, but we'd find that when the paint was dripping off the shaft, there would be tiny "pinholes" or bare spots that would show up...like as the paint drained off, there was something underneat that caused the paint to not adhere and a small "blem" would arise.
Wierd, but with 3 of us in different areas of PA, using different paints, but same shaft... well, we never figured it out.
Only thing I had with Krylon was my fletching glue would eat thru the Krylon and make for one ugly, but still effective, adhesion scar along the feather.
I use Krylon on my G.T. Trads.
Clean w/ 91% alcohol & steel wool.
Tape off the area I don't want painted.
3 light coats later & their ready.
Only had 1 shaft that the feathers were a pain to set due to the paint peeling after adhesion but the rest of the dozen held up great.
One thing to look out for with Heritage shafts is the release agent. I take mine and wash them real good with dish detergent in warm soapy water. Denatured alcohol and or acetone does not do very well in getting all of it off. If you have doubts this is true, clean a few with the alcohol or any other solvent based thinner or cleaner and then clean a few using the dish soap. You will see a noticeable difference in the finish of the shaft. There will still be a little sheen on the shaft from the solvent cleaners and there will be no sheen at all using the dish soap. In most cases if I have the Lacquer thinned properly I can get one coat coverage using the white. If you are planning to use red, yellow or another color of lacquer, dip it in white first and then put the color over the white or it will not cover at all. I have done hundreds of dozens of carbons with no issues. I have used it a lot on POC but I have had a few dozen that cracked and peeled. Not sure why. If I cannot figure it out I will stop using it on wood but will continue using it on carbons.
Guys, I really appreciate all of the knowledge that you are willing to share. I will probably start out praying my first dozen or so shafts, and then experiment with dipping them once I get around to purchased a dip tube. One other question: With the sprayed on Krylon finish, are you using regular cresting paints or are you using testor model paints? I wasn't sure if one type adhered better to the Krylon finish. Do you also dip your shafts in a sealant? Thanks again! Everyone has been great!