I finally got around to doing the bareshafting on my new Shrew Carbon. I really enjoy bareshafting but was quickly reminded that little is more humbling regarding form and release than the bare shaft. After shooting for a while to get settled in enough to start cutting off arrow we got her done.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv133/DavidMcLendon/Shrew%20Carbon%20600%20pixel/Bareshafting.jpg)
Do your fletched arrows shoot in the same place?
John
Take it one step further. Do the broadhead tipped arrows shoot in the same place?
Is the picture at an angle?If your arrows are nock left,the arrow is alittle stiff for a LH shooter.I would add alittle more weight upfront,you hitting good though.
Just my own standard for tuning satisfaction.
If your BH tipped arrows are on the mark at ~5 yards past your maximum effective hunting range, you are golden.
Generally, when quilled bare shafts are on the mark at 25 yards, my set-up utilizing BH's require little if any tweaking.
The picture is at an angle as you can see the right side of the target, the shaft is slightly nock right, the finished shaft will have 3-5"shields on a 10" wrap and clear over wrap so it will pull back in just right. Broadheads were shot later in the day and were the same, shooting was done at 25 yards. Broadheads are Tree Sharks and are shot into an older block target since they chew on a target pretty hard.
Just wondering what the specs of your bow are? Also what arrow you ended up using?
Bill
Bow is a S4" Shrew CH bow-bolt T/D, carbon foam limbs/phenolic riser 53#@28. I had some arrows already made up for another Shrew with CE-150's that were 8.8 gpp and very fast and flat. I wanted a heavier arrow for this bow so this is a Heritage 250 shaft with a 75 gr insert and 165 gr head (5gr bead if solder in a 160 field tip to match a 165 gr Tree Shark). Total weight of the finished product will be right at 575 gr. Piture is shot at an angle but the shaft is hitting slightly nock right, broadheads (Simmons Tree Sharks) were shot later into an older already chewed up block and hit the same. Three 5" shields, a 10" wrap and clear over wrap will be added.
Appears you are golden.
I hope so, I think am going to keep a bare shaft field tip and broadhead to shoot periodically to make sure my release and form are where they need to be.
Looks like you're definitely on the right track.
Thanks !!! Sounds like a pretty deadly setup. :thumbsup:
Bill
That's what I found with Shrew CH. Mine is 56" 53# @ 28". I draw approx 28-1/2". Found that CX250's cut to 29" and 235 up front (160 gr. point and 75gr. steel adapter) fly very well for me, bare shaft or fletched, with or without broad heads.
Same for me this morning. I just got a doz. GT 7595's in the mail yesterday and shot one bare full length this morning with a 175 gr field pt. Centered it looking at nothing but nock at 12 yards, so I moved back and same thing, except low, at 18 yards, bare.
What I'd done was tweaked and nipped at a doz 5575s down to with 3/4 inch of the riser but I had to go clear down to 125 gr. to get them to nock decently. Still a tad left but OK with four fletch.
But I want to shoot a 175 gr. BH so that drove me to the stiffer shafts.
Ran out of feathers tho, so I just ordered 100 barred Tru-Flites out of 3R... go team go!
It's going to take a little while to get used to the new trajectory but I really like how the heavier arrows "feel." Well, shafts. They're not arrows yet.
When the new Shrew arrived I already had some arrows made up from CE Heritage 150s that I was pretty sure would fly well so that I'd be able to play right away. They did and man were they fast, so much so that I went to the computer to pull up the spine calculator to see how the gpp stacked up on the new bow and they were about 8.6 gpp. I wanted a heavier arrow so I dug out a full length 250 and hung 240 gr up front and started bareshafting and ended up with a 585 gr arrow, 18.4% FOC and 11 gpp. It is still plenty fast but brings a whole lot more penetration to the game as well as being much quieter.