I got a new 62" thunderhorn long bow and am having one heck of a time finding arrows that shoot well out of it. 2113's fly great and i love the bow but they don't make 2113's any more and they are getting hard to find so I am looking for some carbons. my draw length is 28" and the poundage is 53#. I tried some carbon express 40/60, Gold tip 35/55, Gold tip 55/75, easton carbon arrows 300 spine. None seem to fly well.
It says on the Gold Tips shafts to not use hot melt so i used Fletch-tite and easton brand hot melt. the points pulled out on everything so far. What kind of glue should you use on Gold Tip shafts.
any help would be appreciated.
Kip
Insert Iron sold by 3 Rivers works well with Gold Tips.
thanks. the package says to use "tip grip" but i have never heard of this glue. there are alot of guys out there shooting gold tips so it should be easy to find some good glue. You would think if Gold Tio had to have some special glue they would send it with the shafts.
It really isn't that critical. Hot melt works fine; it just doesn't hold quite as well. Epoxy holds fine, but is hard to remove if you change your mind.
I always bore out the inside with a rifle brush, clean with denatured alchohol on a Q-tip, and then glue the inserts with loctite super glue gel and the inserts will rarely ever pull out.
Insert iron is what I use.Also do the rifle brush
I use plain old hot melt and have never had one pull out. Just make sure to rough up the inside of the shaft with sandpaper then clean well with alcohol.
I used hot melt at first and they pulled out. Goat Tuff works great and you can heat it up and pull them out if you really want to
I'm not sure if its the best, but I have used JB Weld for years and it works great. I think any slow cure epoxy, or cyanoacrylate (super glue like) cement with work. It usually boils down to how well you scuff and clean. There is a thread from several months back that included some advice from a gold tip Rep. If I recall correctly, I think he said they recommend some proprietary (go figure) super glue like cement. Hope that helps.
I've never paid attention to that and have used hot melt on GT's for years. I've only had one pop out, when I hit a log. I also rough up the inside of the shaft and clean with alcohol.
A little work with a rat tail file or similar items and hot melt. No problems. It doesn't take a lot so don't go crazy. Just scuff it up some. Cleaning with acetone or something is not a bad idea, but not necessary. Without scuffing up the inside hot melt inserts pop out easy.
I rough up the the inserts with a little file and clean them with alcohol. I also clean the inside of the shaft with alcohol.
I glue the insert into the shaft with AAA 24 hours 2 component epoxy from Three Rivers.
This treatment proved to be rock-solid!
gorilla super glue impact tough formula! This is all I use now on my incerts and for footings on my GT Trads!! I needed bomb proof as I do alot of stumping and got sick of losing the brass incerts!!!
What James said, Gorilla super glue gel
plain old super glue
JB Weld for me.
QuoteOriginally posted by jimmerc:
gorilla super glue impact tough formula! This is all I use now on my incerts and for footings on my GT Trads!! I needed bomb proof as I do alot of stumping and got sick of losing the brass incerts!!!
X3. I do rough the inside up a bit with the bore cleaning wire brush. If you do change your mind, you can remove them by leaving a field tip screwed in and heat it up...the insert will pop free when it gets hot enough.
The main reason for roughening up the inside of the shaft is to give the adhesive something to grab onto and also for making the area larger with the same given dimensions, the reason for cleaning any loose material left over after doing the above is so the adhesive adheres to the substrate and not the loose material left over after roughing up the application area.
This all gives the adhesive the best shot at working.
Hope this helps.
I also had a hard time keeping brass inserts using hot melt in my gt 55/75's. even target butts would keep my points. I switched to insert iron and have not had any problems. Still use one of my 6.5mm rifle brushes and cleaner/solvent to prep shafts first.
i use insert iron. it works great
I've always used hot glue on mine. No problems.
I have used Pine Ridge instant archery glue (super glue) and the Gorilla Glue Impact tough super glue with good results. I also use a rifle bore brush and then clean with a q-tip with some acetone on it before gluing insert. Two part epoxy works the best though. Big Jim has a new type hot melt that looks like it should work great. Check the video out on his website
i always use slow set epoxy on all inserts, carbon and alum. have been doing so for at least 50 years and never lost an insert. ever. i use naphtha to clean both before gluing and a bit of 120 grit to rough up the insert outside and tube innards.
on big jim's site he has a video of him gluing inserts with a hot melt,then trying to pull the arrows out of an oak tree,check it out,thats the stuff i would buy!
That stuff Big Jim uses is Kimsha quick stick and works GREAT on GT's.
Amen, Americanhunter7! It does work good and it's heat reversible!
goat tuff for fletching and inserts
+ 4 On Gorilla Super Glue Impact Tough Formula
Do the bore brush thing, then swab out the shaft with a q-tip and acetone. Dip the inserts in acetone. Use some Loc-Tite 2 part marine epoxy (buy it at Lowes or Home Depot). Stand the shafts up over night insert down.
JB weld does OK but will come out, any type super glue will not hold.
If you could get some of the Easton 2 part epoxy they send for those HIT inserts it will never turn loose.LCH
I found surface prep important as well with the GTs shafts.
I dont even need to prep the surfaces if I use goat tuff and I only practice with broadheads. Have never had one come out, but they came out all the time when I used hot melt.