Compound shooters seem to like them as short as possible. Even dangerously short sometimes, in my opinion.
Medieval archers shot arrows up to 36" long, the common draw length was 30" putting 6" of arrow sticking out the end.
Given that your arrow is properly tuned, how long do you like your arrows compared to your draw length? Is there a reason you like it like that? What are your reasons?
I cut them till they are tuned-the length means nothing as long as they are perfectly tuned, and of course not too short.
Because of the way I aim, the arrow & point length affect my sight picture. I strive for an arrow that will tune at 27.5 or 28" total. This is 1.5-2" beyond the back of the bow.
I do what Bjorn does, trim a little off at a time till they're shooting good and have never paid any attention to length
Mine are 29.5" with a 26.5-27" draw. That is the length they tuned the best for me.
I try to keep them at 31 -30,75", thats 0,75-1" longer than my draw
First i need that for broadhead clearance, second i like to have them all at the same length so that my sight picture stays consistent.
Full length GT Trads in both 1535 and 3555 and tune with front end weight with nock is 30.25". I have about an inch in front of the bow with that setup at my draw length and anchoring middle finger to corner of mouth. They're almost too short but they do fine.
Woodies are different. I usually have to trim those to try to get good tune, so, that can vary a little but usually no shorter than 30" BOP. That's cutting it close if broadheads are used.
You fellows with shorter draws are lucky in my eyes. It allows for more variances. Plus, when looking at the TG classifieds I see many arrows I look at only to see they are already cut too short for me to even think about buying.
Right now it's a 30.5" arrow for my 27" draw, they tuned out just right at that length & the weight that is up front.
With my 30" draw length, it doesn't matter what spine of aluminum arrow I'm shooting. They are all 32" BOP. Never shorter, never longer.
1/4" longer than my draw length - the woodsman touching my bowhand knuckle is my draw check. ;)
29.25" arrows and my draw is 26.75", because that is the length that my arrows are tuned the best with my setup. Plus, I like 2" of aluminum footing on the end too. My specs are in my signature below:
Forever unless they break....lol
:archer:
PS: Sorry, I just couldn't help myself...lol
I tune my arrows and let that determine their final length.With wood and aluminum you can pick a spine to finish about an 1" longer then you draw.But with carbons,they don't come in as many different spines so length is not important to me as long as they shoot the way I want.
30" arrows for my 29" draw. I don't shoot carbons so tuning isn't an issue (more choices with wood and aluminum). Without getting into the definition of "instinctive" shooting, I believe sight picture (including arrow) matter, either consciously or sub-consciously, no matter how you claim to aim.
I have a 28" draw and like to get alum arrows tuned that will be at 28.5"-29".
Mine are tuned well at about 31 inches. I left them that long when I made them a year ago as I was just starting to get back into archery, and I figured that my draw length would probably increase as my form and strength improved (which it has). Plus it gives me a little extra weight and lots of clearance for a broadhead.
Cutting an arrow too short from my experience has been one of the things that limited the set up from being as forgiving as possible. For many years I would cut arrows too short and not shoot as well. It is not that a shorter arrow is going to shoot terrible, but if you are looking for the "best" or optimum forgiving set up, then shorter arrow, IMO is just not as forgiving.
I take an arrow and do a check to see where it has the least amount of vibration. Where that point is behind the arrow point is where I want the last point of contact with the shelf or end of the arrow rest. This is usually from 2.5 to 3 inches behind the back of the point.
To check you take an arrow and rest it on the edge of a table. Take your left hand and hold the nock. Take your right hand and pull down to make the arrow bounce. Where the least vibration is, is the point you want touching your rest. Really need a youtube video of this!
This is about right for me...
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/drawlength.jpg)
I shoot CE 4560 with a 29" draw. I leave them full length and load up the front until they fly good. I also use the tip in my sight picture, so full length fills the bill for me.
Best arrow length could be a short or long discussion. Factors such as anchor, type of sighting method, trajectory and other factors could all add their own twist.
Just my take:
1st you don't want arrow too short to compromise safety
2nd the arrow must fly tru
Then, your individual preference takes precedence for your personal site window at yardage's you practice and plan to shoot in the field.
Example: Tested one inch shorter arrows for kicks two days ago – I was then grouping four inches high at 25 yards. While it was nice and easy to compensate at the longer yardages, the site window was much larger than I prefer for close shots. Other's needs may dictate the desire for a longer arrow.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
I cut them till they are tuned-the length means nothing as long as they are perfectly tuned, and of course not too short.
What Bjorn said and the Medieval guys had to have them longer because they liked to light theirs on fire :laughing: .
I like mine as long as I can keep finding them... Then again, those that miss the target were obviously not perfect any way...
Mine are 29", I draw 26-27" I like them straight, colorful and sharp!!!!
about 1/2 inch longer than my draw length
Short as possible still being safe and maintaining good flight. I like them shorter for moving around easier with a nocked arrow on a still hunt.
29" draw....So my 2016 Legacys are cut to 29" with 125 up front....
They fly great.
32.5" arrow for a 31.5" draw... I like the broadhead as far from my finger as I can get it! Hard to find long arrows lucky for me they tune well for me at that length
QuoteOriginally posted by crotch horn:
Mine are 29.5" with a 26.5-27" draw. That is the length they tuned the best for me.
Dang, we must be long lost twins! :archer2:
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
Forever unless they break....lol
:archer:
PS: Sorry, I just couldn't help myself...lol
:biglaugh: Good one.
Personally I cut mine back till they tune, which right now is 30.125" 2018 Legacy. I draw 29.25
B
QuoteOriginally posted by Bow Bum:
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
Forever unless they break....lol
:archer:
PS: Sorry, I just couldn't help myself...lol
:biglaugh: Good one.
Personally I cut mine back till they tune, which right now is 30.125" 2018 Legacy. I draw 29.25
B [/b]
I usually only like them for the first week after I fletch them, after that I get real mad at em. :laughing:
I keep them full length for my 31.5 draw.
Hard to find long arrows (especially wood) for us long arm folks. I like 33" but as stated finding those are a needle in a haystack anymore. Long as can get them woodies.
I see the arrow when I shoot and like all my arrows the same lenght and shoot them out of multiple bows. I draw 27 and all my arrows are 28. I tune by adjusting point weight as opposed to cutting the shaft.
I have a 28" draw and always cut my arrows to 30" long.
I've cut 'e mshorter, kindo f like Charlie showed in his pic, and Ive run 'em 2-3" longer.
When I build arrows I want 2 things- adequate arrow weight, and perfect arrow flight. I do not reference my arrow tip while aiming, so it doesnt matter much to me if theyre a little longer. Ive been running them 28 for the last few years, this last bunch I changed my arrow setp by adding an additional 100gr up front. I upped the spine weight of my shafts, and ended up with a 29" arrow. I could get the next lower spine to shoot well at 28", but the overall arrow wieght wasnt as heavy as I wanted. By ading an addtional inch of shaft, I picked up 15 gr more arrow weight. I wanted them a minmum of 600gr.
I had built some a few years back so that the back of the broadhead would touch my knuckle, which i liked, as its like having a slient clicker on the bow, but as i tweaked my form I found I was short drawing, so now all those arrows are too short.
I cut my arrows 29" to 30" for my 26" draw.
I draw 28 and my arras are 30,that is where they bare shafted for me.