Just got my SBD string in the mail. Thanks, Pierre!
Since replacing the string, the arrows that were shooting like darts with the 16-strand that came with the bow are now fishtailing slightly. While it doesn't put the field points off, the broadheads are just enough out of whack that I'm off a few inches at 20yds+. It looks like I'm shooting consistently to the right of where I'm looking when I shoot the broadheads. Is this something I can fix with brace height or nock placement? I'd hate to replace the 6 arrows I've already fletched. :knothead:
Help a noob?
Thanks,
Rusty
If you have room try taking a lttle off your arrows or try a lighter point.
I would say a little off the arrow also if you have it to spare. Try changing bace height first. Maybe shim out the side plate a hair. larger scilencers could also help.
Thanks. How much is a little? They're currently right at 29" and I'm pretty sure my draw length is 27".
Yep, if you are shooting a 6 or 8 strand strig now, you are underspined. Start with a bare shaft and cut 1/4" off at a time.
Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.
If it was me, I'd lower the brace height by 1/2-1 full twist of the bowstring. It beats cutting the arrow because once the arrow is cut, that's permanent.
If lowering the brace height doesn't solve your problem, then start cutting.
Thanks NW. I just lost the last of my light for the day but I did try cutting one of the arrows down. 1/4 then another 1/4 on a bare shaft. Very knock-left and very little difference from 29" to 28 3/4" to 28 1/2". Knock left explains why I'm missing to the right with the broadheads.
I'll try the brace height tomorrow morning and report back.
Thanks again guys.
Rusty
Don't be scared to cut a half inch or an inch off of those arrows. To go at a 1/4" at a time seems like overkill unless you're a world class shooter.
you can also try a lighter point
I'm a world-class fool... does that count?
I'll try again in the morning with brace height and arrow length to see how it goes. There's so much to learn about tuning these darn things. Strange how the string can make such a difference. I guess it makes sense that a thinner string has less drag and is therefore faster but it's still amazing to me that it can have such an impact. Then again, the SBD string sure seems to spit the arrows out faster.
As usual, lots of info here at TG. Keep it coming, gang!
Rusty
QuoteOriginally posted by RM81:
you can also try a lighter point
I'll likely switch the 125 field points to 100s tomorrow to see how that goes. I really like the 125 snuffers I shoot and I've got a bunch of them. Of course, if it means the difference between a good clean kill shot or a miss/cripple, I'll be sure to swap them out. I'm just hoping to avoid doing that if at all possible.
Thanks again,
Rusty
If your arrows are showing weak and hitting to the right, keep the 125 grain point weight, but lower the brace height before you change to 100 grain points.
I fine tune my arrows by adjusting the brace height instead of changing point weight.
How low is it ok to go regarding brace height? I'm currently showing 7 3/4" when the recommended height for the Samick Deermaster is 8+. Is it still ok to drop it down? The bow is pretty darn quiet so I don't think I'm getting any limb slap in the string...
My 66" Blacktail TDs came with a recommended brace height of 7 3/4"-8". Depending on point weight weight, I've had both of them down as low as 7 1/4" and as high as 8 3/8". It didn't hurt my bows and with a pair of yarn wool puffs, they were quiet too upon arrow release.
Just try it. I don't think a half to one full twist is going to radically reduce your brace height.
If it was me, I would heed the advice of xtrema312, except for cutting the arrows off. I always experiment with the side plate thickness, brace height adjustment, or string silencer size and cut arrows as the very last option. The side plate thickness adjustment has the most affect and is the simplest way to change how the stiffness of an arrow acts with a bow. It's how I am able to use the same arrows over and over again when I trade bows.
Here's what my rest looks like now. Just a piece of self-stick velcro in front of the Flipper. Should I try sneaking a bit of something behind the velcro? I'm going to try the brace height first since that's a quick and easy fix.
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/rpmahony/b57c5ff7-1.jpg)
Yes, I would try putting a short piece of toothpick or wooden match vertically behind the velcro. If that's too thick, then reduce the thickness of the toothpick or match and try it again. It shouldn't take too many tries before you get it right.
Can't believe no one asked if you were R or L handed. Put half a stick match behind your strike plate.
Bowmania
I shoot RH. I dropped the brace height one turn and bumped out with a little piece of wire behind the strike plate. Bare shaft shows a very small change but it's still a good bit nock-left. Going to keep playing with the two and see how it goes.
Rusty
I swapped the 125 for a 100 on the bare shaft and noticed another slight change for the better. I took the point completely out leaving just the 100g insert and the darn nock was looking right at me. Can the string make enough of a change in the way the bow shoots that I have to drop 100g+ on the front of the arrow?
:confused: :banghead:
On a curve or a hot hybrid they will..not so much on a longer d style longbow
And now the nock broke off of my test arrow. :banghead:
Think it's time to cut the grass or something and try later.
Are you shooting carbon arrows?
Yes sir. GT Traditional 3555s with 100gr inserts and 125s up front. Before switching to the SBD, the stock 16 strand was spitting them like darts with either field point or broadhead. Now I'm thinking this string is just too fast for these arrows.
Rusty you will need to raise you brace height not lower it to stiffen you spine a bit . It shortens you prower stroke a little and makes your arrows a little stiffer and a little slower but you get a more quiet bow . Now , with bows wit very hight brace heights like my BW PSAX you would lower it to pull your arrow to the left but thats due more to the design of the bow than the normal brace height adjustments of other bows or so BW says .
Sounds like you tried to fix something that wasn't broken...or thought that there wouldn't be a significant change. I have learned something from your thread....the weight of the string makes a difference. Remember, straight arrow flight trumps any other modification or equipment variable you might want to play with. If I were you and found that changing the string ruined my shooting accuracy I would have to go back to what was working for me.... speaking for myself, at least. There's nothing wrong trying something new, but if it doesn't work then why wouldn't you go back to where you were? Good luck with your tuning. Maybe you will find a solution but at least you know your old way worked pretty good.
QuoteOriginally posted by BRITTMAN:
Rusty you will need to raise you brace height not lower it to stiffen you spine a bit.............
I beg to differ with you on this, BRITTMAN. I'll have to agree with Stu Miller on this: "If the arrow is slightly weak for what the bow needs, then lower the brace height". So you need to LOWER the brace height to stiffen the spine.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bill Carlsen:
Sounds like you tried to fix something that wasn't broken...or thought that there wouldn't be a significant change. I have learned something from your thread....the weight of the string makes a difference. Remember, straight arrow flight trumps any other modification or equipment variable you might want to play with. If I were you and found that changing the string ruined my shooting accuracy I would have to go back to what was working for me.... speaking for myself, at least. There's nothing wrong trying something new, but if it doesn't work then why wouldn't you go back to where you were? Good luck with your tuning. Maybe you will find a solution but at least you know your old way worked pretty good.
I was trying not to admit defeat here, Bill. But I think the SBD will just have to wait for my next 60" bow. It's quiet as can be, fast as lightning but it just doesn't like this bow/arrow combination. I'll be putting the 16-strand back on tomorrow and should be shooting straight once again. The stock string was quiet once I added a couple silencers and some yarn at the loops and the bow is fast enough methinks. I do notice the arrows getting to the target faster with the SBD but they're just not hitting where I'm looking when I put the broadheads on.
Thanks again to all that responded. I've learned a good bit in the last couple days.
Rusty
It is funny how many times I have seen the subject on brace height debated here with no concessions. I think a pole post would be fun.
Ok I am going to throw something out here that will sound real odd, but I think I have seen this more than once in my own experience. When you get a carbon arrow too far off on the weak side and the arrow a lot longer than needed with higher FOC I think you get a whipping action that can cause a false tune condition. Carbon reacts so fast I think this is possible when the heavy point hanging out there flexes back. I think this offsets the weak planning action. Make a small change and it shows up. It is the only thing I can think of to explain what I have seen and why some shoot arrows many others would consider way under spined. Cut past center recurves are also more tolerant of spine so you could have been on a real boarder line spine and now you see that. Also remember that the sting change could be compounded if you have way less in silencers on it. You could have made a 7-9# change in spine requirements. That would take a whole 1" off the shaft to start to make that up.
You're shooting an arrow with a dynamic spine under 50# out of what I think is a cut past center recurve pulling at least 50# at your draw length. I am not all that surprised you are a little under spined. Keep playing with that side plate. You may also want to pick-up a 400 spine shaft to play with for that new string.
Take out that 100 grain insert and put in a 50 grain. See where that puts you. I wouldn't go any lower on brace height.
Switched back to the stock string and I'm slinging bullets again. I think I'll hunt it with this setup and look into stiffer arrows next year with the SBD.
Then again, maybe I'll have an excuse to get another 60" bow. (shh... don't tell the boss!)
Thanks again for all the help folks.