I've heard do and don't bare shaft. Get the arrow to fly goodand put a BH on it. then I've heard bare shaft, bare shaft. So which is it?
If you know how to read the bare shaft it works great... :banghead:
For me it works well, but in the end it boils down to tuning with a BH on a fletched arrow if you're gonna hunt with it..
Bare shafting is good but is just a step to get you close to tuned and from there you shoot broadheads to confirm.Sometimes you have to tweek a little bit at that point.
If you think your flight is real close,you can skip the bare shaft test and go right to broadheads.Tweek from there if you need to.
The whole point of tuning is to get the fletched field point arrows to impact exactly at the same place as your broadheads.Those arrows should also have the best flight.
Go to bowmaker.net and read the tuning information.
I like bareshafting, but only at about 10 or 15 yards. THEN fletch, maybe a little brace height tweeking and you will be shooting darts WHERE YOU ARE LOOKING!!!!!
JMO based on a year of shooting though, but it works for me. I'm a tweeker though and I actually enjoy it.
Good for a reference sometimes, but it doesn't show me much if the range is less than 20 and more like 25 yards.
(I'm a tweeker though and I actually enjoy it.)
Maybe you meant you like to tinker?
A tweeker yikes... :scared:
It works.
Funny I just came in from playing around doing such .. had a longer stiffer shaft shooting well with 125 gr.. seeing what happens by stepping down in spine with a shorter shaft with 145 gr points. It certainly is a good way to get close to a starting point. It will most certainly tell you if you are way off base as far as spine.
My last two shots with the trial setup had two flethed shafts touching where I wanted them to be,bare shafting put them there in pretty short order.
I have bareshafted my arrows for many years to get the best dynamic spine for the bow I'm shooting.Works for me.
I prefer to bareshaft.
The ideal fletched arrow should bareshaft either perfect or SLIGHTLY (very slightly) weak...but it should not be too stiff at all. When you fletch an arrow, you add weight AND wind resistance to the nock end of the arrow...and that in effect causes a "stiffening" of the arrow's dynamic spine.
I haven't bare shaft tuned an arrow since Stu Miller's free DSC program came along. It's basically a virtual "what if" program where you can see what size spined arrow is going to work without having to buy the arrow beforehand.
I have one constant and that is arrow length. All my arrows are cut to 32" BOP. Never shorter, never longer so cutting my arrow is out of the question since bare shaft tuning is predicated on cutting the arrow length down, on a full length shaft, by 1/4" increments.
The DSC program will give me a tunable arrow in about 10 minutes of time. With the arrow length the same 32" BOP all the time, I plug in the point weight I want to shoot and then fine tune by adjusting brace height either up or down. Since my 66" recurves have a recommended brace height of 7 3/4"-8", I set the initial brace height at 8" and go from there.
In order to use the DSC program, one must enter all the info in the 14 boxes "correctly". Most people who have problems with the program enter the wrong info in one or more boxes and one of those boxes is usually the Strike Plate distance box. This box is critical. Entering incorrect info in these boxes is the same as "chasing your tail".
Both of my bow's shelves are cut 3/16" past center. This allows them to shoot a variety of differently spined size arrows. Since I shoot 32" BOP aluminum arrows; the program has allowed me to tune my 42# recurve to shoot 2114, 2212, 2213, 2215 and 2117 spined arrows. With my 37# recurve, it's tuned so it can shoot 2114, 2212 and 2213 spined arrows.
In closing; to each, their own on whether they choose to tune an arrow using the bare shaft method or using the free DSC program. I chose the program.
QuoteOriginally posted by Protege Longbows:
I prefer to bareshaft.
The ideal fletched arrow should bareshaft either perfect or SLIGHTLY (very slightly) weak...but it should not be too stiff at all. When you fletch an arrow, you add weight AND wind resistance to the nock end of the arrow...and that in effect causes a "stiffening" of the arrow's dynamic spine.
X2
only way to really know for sure imho is to bareshaft and cut
I wouldn't even consider hunting with a setup that I had not properly and extensively tuned in advance. Honestly, I believe proper tuning is why one guy can shoot clean through an elk or moose, and another person with a similar setup can't get through a whitetail.
If you like to tinker, try bare shafting a with a braodhead. I do most of my practice with broadheads anyway and the SGH type heads and feild points fall right in behind them. It really works well in my experience. Give it a shot.
I think bareshafting is great if you are a very good consistant shooter.
It amazes me though what amount of differences a bareshaft will show to a person with the slightest of inconsistancy.
I agree with bare shaft tuning. That way when you have those bad days it give you one less thing to blame.
Have had some bows that I just could not get to bare shaft good. It always gave me a pinch of doubt about my shooting with that bow.
Adcock - "do not bare shaft with broadheads." That my friend can be dangerous.
Bowmania
I have had great results with the bare shaft planning method, then move to broadhead tunning with the same method. The nock direction method has been completely useless for me.
For years I had trouble with getting my broadhead arrows to shoot well. Dan Quillian introduced me to bare shaft tuning, and it made all the difference. I found out that I had been chronically underspined, so when I put broadheads on they tended to dip and swerve before hitting the target, or somewhere close to it. :)
I shoot wood exclusively, so I shoot a very soft foam target from close range and go by nock left/right/up/down. I set the up/down to just barely nock high, then change spine until I get a straight in shaft. I don't trim my arrows to adjust- instead I have a full set of bare shafts in multiple spines and two-inch different lengths, 28", 30", and 32", all with 125 grain field points. For my longbows I shoot the 28's until I get the right spine, and I use 30's for recurves, which I tend to draw a little longer. The 32's I rarely use, generally only when a long-draw friend needs help. If I want a shorter arrow than 30", I bare shaft a little weak with the 30's and them make up my actual arrows at 29". If I'm going to use broadheads heavier than 125, which is most of the time, I bare shaft a little stiff with the 125 field points. When I then shoot broadheads, I do the final adjustment by changing broadhead weight if necessary. This technique invariably get me perfect broadhead flight, which is the final objective.
I agree with Bowmania- don't bare shaft with broadheads! Not only can it be dangerous, but you must have absolutely perfect form every time. I don't know anyone who is that good, and it will just lead to frustration.
Bare shafting is also good for tuning your bow. In order for it to work smoothly, the bow must be braced at the correct height with the nocking point in the right place. That's the first order of business to get the best arrow performance.
Honestly, for me it is a waste of time. I've made a dedicated effort a couple times to keep an open mind and try it and I end up WAY underspined for hunting arrows. Maybe things change when I put a big Snuffer up front or the 4 X 5 1/2 inch high profile feathers on, maybe I release strangely, I don't know, but it just doesn't predict a good hunting arrow for me.
I guess I'm bullheaded about some things in my hunting arrows - 1. I know what broadhead I'm going to use so changing point weight is not feasible and 2. I use big feathers - cheapest insurance you can get for a mistake under duress and 3. I refuse to shoot an arrow that sticks 2 inches off the front of the shelf - I cut my arrows 1/2 inch past the shelf so changing arrow length is not an option.
I do have plenty of aluminum arrow sizes, though, and even changing field point weight with those hasn't gotten me to an arrow that bareshafts acceptably that I can use for hunting - always weak spined.
So I'll just keep working up my arrows with feathers on, what flies good to "my eye" with a broadhead.
Oh yeah, and I guarantee I'll continue to shoot completely through animals with my moderate weight, non-bareshaft tuned arrows with inefficient, non-single beveled big broadheads! ;)
Never bareshafted for 25+ years and all went well, so I figure it will work for me for at least another few decades.
Ryan
QuoteOriginally posted by Protege Longbows:
I prefer to bareshaft.
The ideal fletched arrow should bareshaft either perfect or SLIGHTLY (very slightly) weak...but it should not be too stiff at all. When you fletch an arrow, you add weight AND wind resistance to the nock end of the arrow...and that in effect causes a "stiffening" of the arrow's dynamic spine.
I agree with this premise but I would like your opinion here. I have always tuned bareshafts to be perfect, but never worried if they were the slightest bit stiff. The reason being that you get a small feather bump with the fletched arrows causing the arrow to act slightly weaker. This is evidenced by shooting a slightly stiff arrow with the cock feather in, and receiving good flight.
Am I wrong in my thinking?
Practically speaking, I have tons of experience that tells me a slightly stiff or slightly weak bareshaft equates to perfect flying fletched arrows. So within human ability I am very confident with an arrow that is super close either way. But in a perfect world, can you or anybody else comment on my line of thinking?
In 50 years of bow shooting I have never done it, don't need it, but if you just love tinkering around with this stuff go ahead. :saywhat:
Jason R. Wesbrock wrote: "I wouldn't even consider hunting with a setup that I had not properly and extensively tuned in advance. Honestly, I believe proper tuning is why one guy can shoot clean through an elk or moose, and another person with a similar setup can't get through a whitetail."
I second that.
Ever since I dug an arrow head out of a deer that had walked away from someone's direct hit to the spine, I'm a big believer. I sat that head on the kitchen window sill and looked at it for a while (while I washed dishes) before I realized the bend in the head was from a poorly tuned arrow. It missed penetrating the spine by millimeters.
I'm also with NightWing. Stu Miller's calculator is really a great time saver. But, then I bare shaft tune also. Finally, I won't shoot a broadhead unless it's been tuned. ... I've had setups in the past I thought were great, only to have broadhead flight erratic. So, that has to be the final test.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ryan Rothhaar:
Honestly, for me it is a waste of time. I've made a dedicated effort a couple times to keep an open mind and try it and I end up WAY underspined for hunting arrows. Maybe things change when I put a big Snuffer up front or the 4 X 5 1/2 inch high profile feathers on, maybe I release strangely, I don't know, but it just doesn't predict a good hunting arrow for me.
I guess I'm bullheaded about some things in my hunting arrows - 1. I know what broadhead I'm going to use so changing point weight is not feasible and 2. I use big feathers - cheapest insurance you can get for a mistake under duress and 3. I refuse to shoot an arrow that sticks 2 inches off the front of the shelf - I cut my arrows 1/2 inch past the shelf so changing arrow length is not an option.
I do have plenty of aluminum arrow sizes, though, and even changing field point weight with those hasn't gotten me to an arrow that bareshafts acceptably that I can use for hunting - always weak spined.
So I'll just keep working up my arrows with feathers on, what flies good to "my eye" with a broadhead.
Oh yeah, and I guarantee I'll continue to shoot completely through animals with my moderate weight, non-bareshaft tuned arrows with inefficient, non-single beveled big broadheads! ;)
Never bareshafted for 25+ years and all went well, so I figure it will work for me for at least another few decades.
Ryan
:thumbsup: :clapper: :archer2:
I like to add paper testing to the tuning process.
Like having a still action camers.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ryan Rothhaar:
So I'll just keep working up my arrows with feathers on, what flies good to "my eye" with a broadhead.
Some people's eyes are extremely good about judging their own arrow flight. A buddy of mine, Bob, is the same way. He can tinker and tune his bow by watching his fletched arrow fly, and they will end up as good as any other tuning method. I wish my eyes at 39 were as good as his at 68.
After spending a a couple decades plus watching guys shoot arrows that fly like snakes on crack, I'm convinced folks like Bob are the exception.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ryan Rothhaar:
Oh yeah, and I guarantee I'll continue to shoot completely through animals with my moderate weight, non-bareshaft tuned arrows with inefficient, non-single beveled big broadheads! ;)
Ryan
:biglaugh:
If I could get a bareshaft to fly perfect at, 15-18 yards...why would I put feathers on it? To slow it down????
bare shafting saves alot of time and arrows. neil jacobson has an arrow tuning section on his website that is very helpful in reading and tuning arrows.- www.bpbows.com. (http://www.bpbows.com.)
I know one thing.
If you don't have good consistent form and release you will drive yourself nuts trying to bareshaft.
John
HighPlains, I'm with you on your logic. I would rather have my arrow a little stiff than a little weak. Dan Quillian believed that arrows a little stiff were more accurate than arrows a little weak, and I've never proved him wrong. I only shoot wood, and sometimes I have some spine variation between my arrows. I don't find that it affects my accuracy IF I am very close either way to the perfect bare shaft match.
That feather bump you referred to is why I bare shaft very slightly nock high. It helps to lift the arrow slightly on the release to better clear the shelf. Too much, though, and it will rob energy from the arrow and affect accuracy.
Longarrow, this site is about hunting. With broadheads you absolutely must have good fletching. If you want to target shoot without feathers, or with tiny ones, that's fine with me. I've seen it done.
I have messed with the DSC as a means of check and just playing around. As to bare shaft, I dont do it. Couple of things.... All my bows are within 5# draw of each other. Yes, some are recurves and some are LB's. I only shoot one TYPE of arrow and thats AD's. I do shoot several "models" of AD's though. My arrows are cut to two different lengths but only by 1/2 inch. I shoot two different point weights depending on what I "see" on my arrow performance. I have a bunch of "time in" here so I feel comfortable with what I have.
All that being said, I just started working up a set of parallel shafts. Thus far the DSC has put me just about on the money with these for one particular bow and I did not do bare shaft...
Go figure
I just shoot wood, bare shafting is a time saving step in tuning for me. Easy way to check if you are right on- why bother to dip, paint, and fletch something that is not going to give you perfect flight?
QuoteOriginally posted by Don Stokes:
HighPlains, I'm with you on your logic. I would rather have my arrow a little stiff than a little weak. Dan Quillian believed that arrows a little stiff were more accurate than arrows a little weak, and I've never proved him wrong. I only shoot wood, and sometimes I have some spine variation between my arrows. I don't find that it affects my accuracy IF I am very close either way to the perfect bare shaft match.
That feather bump you referred to is why I bare shaft very slightly nock high. It helps to lift the arrow slightly on the release to better clear the shelf. Too much, though, and it will rob energy from the arrow and affect accuracy.
Thanks for the comments Don. That is exactly how I tune bareshafts as well.
Slightly stiff, and slightly nock high. If I tune bareshafts to have the nocks level then they almost always porpoise with feathers.
I don't bareshaft.. I like to flight (long shot) test and paper tune. I do more paper tuning since I don't have the big open space to do flight tuning.
When I flight test, I start with full length arrows. They start out very weak and I'll cut them down .25" till they recover quickly (to My Eye). I then go to paper tuning... This works best for Me and My style of shooting.
QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
... but if you just love tinkering around with this stuff go ahead. :saywhat:
I can't STAND tinkering. Especially blindly. The Adcock method was not only a revelation, but was the fast track to great arrow flight. I was lost before using it.
And that is where I wanted to be, not screwing around with all the variables in my tackle, but shooting my bow, knowing that if the shot was errant it was my fault, not the tackle. Bareshafting is a fast and efficient way, for me at least, to tune arrow flight.
Joshua
though i've surely played around with bare shafting in the past past with good results, i personally don't see a need for it, for me.
for the very most part, i think by now i know what i'm doing when i build and shoot arrows, and setting up stick bows. i know how i shoot and how to match most all arrow types to my bows and me. i know what's "good arrow flight". when i miss, and i do, it's no secret to me why i missed when that dart straight arrow dusts that porkers butt. :eek: :banghead: :rolleyes: :D
everyone's different with bows 'n' arrows and no one's wrong about bareshafting or not bareshafting, unless their arrows really don't fly well consistently and then they've definitely got at an issue to address.
imho, bareshafting is not for newbies 'cause they don't have enuf form consistency to make any rational judgement about their arrow flight.
ymmv. have at it! :)
If you have lots of time it's a good idea and will get you great arrow flight once you add fletching. But it's not neccessary.
what I see here is the equivalent of what I see in the rifle world .
Some guys go buy a box of shells and or even mix shells others painstakeingly hand load the perfect load. To each his own. They say God is in the details.
I do it with my chundoo shafts. I can find which side of the wood grain wants to be up then fletch em'. :D
QuoteOriginally posted by Protege Longbows:
I prefer to bareshaft.
The ideal fletched arrow should bareshaft either perfect or SLIGHTLY (very slightly) weak...but it should not be too stiff at all. When you fletch an arrow, you add weight AND wind resistance to the nock end of the arrow...and that in effect causes a "stiffening" of the arrow's dynamic spine.
x 3 !!!
i strive for a very slightly weak shaft but the real test is broadheads on your hunting arrows.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dave Lay:
QuoteOriginally posted by Protege Longbows:
I prefer to bareshaft.
The ideal fletched arrow should bareshaft either perfect or SLIGHTLY (very slightly) weak...but it should not be too stiff at all. When you fletch an arrow, you add weight AND wind resistance to the nock end of the arrow...and that in effect causes a "stiffening" of the arrow's dynamic spine.
x 3 !!!
i strive for a very slightly weak shaft but the real test is broadheads on your hunting arrows. [/b]
X 4
Exactly what I do, but it is very slight.
I can tune for really good arrow flight without bare shafting.
The only reason I bare shaft is to reduce the amount of work the fletching is having to do, which increases performance.
QuoteOriginally posted by Outwest:
I know one thing.
If you don't have good consistent form and release you will drive yourself nuts trying to bareshaft.
John
Only if you are trying to get perfect bs flight.
Not an issue if using the planning method (comparing bs to fletched groups).
I use Stu Millers spine tester program and then I will bare shaft and paper test to make sure. most of the time there are problems it is because of my release.
I'm with Night Wing and Huntschool (and others)/ I just learned of Stu's calculator on this site last spring. It is terrific and has gotten me very close to dead on every time. I've played with Easton Legacy shafts in 1916 and 2016. I've settled on Beman MFX shafts with 3, 4" feathers in two spines -- 600 and 500. My arrows are either 27.5" or 28" with either 100 grain or 125 grain points or broadheads. My experience with wood is very limited, and because I don't understand the medium, very frustrating. I bought a 100 PO shafts some years ago. Picked the straightest, sealed, fletched and even crested. They were ok but I was never satisfied with straightness. As a result, I don't do wood.
I'm more inclined to paper tune than bare shaft. However, I generally don't do either these days as Stu get's me really close and I use broadheads and field tips to fine tune.
Arrow flight, especially with broadheads at 25 yards is my "ready" cue.
Even though frustrating, when I can get my bareshafts and fletched shafts to fly perfectly together at 30-40 yds my confidence in my bow and my self goes through the roof. Necessary? Probably not but extremely satifying.
Naw, been doing this long enough to know what works, and my "eyes" are fine ... Have Fun ...
I think many bowhunters who do not bareshaft would be amazed to find out how poorly matched their arrows are to their bow. I recently tested some arrows that I thought were a good match for my bow and was quite suprised to find they were not close. Might explain a few erratic shots here and there. Big fletching tends to correct a lot of mistakes and can lead a person to thinking their arrows are well-matched to their bow.
QuoteOriginally posted by JohnV:
I think many bowhunters who do not bareshaft would be amazed to find out how poorly matched their arrows are to their bow. I recently tested some arrows that I thought were a good match for my bow and was quite suprised to find they were not close. Might explain a few erratic shots here and there. Big fletching tends to correct a lot of mistakes and can lead a person to thinking their arrows are well-matched to their bow.
I don't bare shaft tune anymore. Below are my thoughts when using Stu's DSC program.
Speaking for myself and only for myself; when my arrows are flying like darts and both field points and broadheads, in the same grain weight, are hitting the same place on a target or a pine cone I'm aiming at, when the distance is 5, 10, 15 or 20 yards, this old adage comes to mind......"If it isn't broke, don't fix it". This is why I don't bare shaft tune anymore.
When using Stu's DSC program; if my arrows "wouldn't" be matched to the bow, the field tipped arrows and broadhead tipped arrows, in the same grain weights, "wouldn't" be hitting in the same spot at 5, 10, 15 and 20 yards. Shooting broadheads is the acid test. I don't take shots at live game over 20 yards so beyond 20 yards, does not apply to me.
For those who want to bare shaft tune their arrows to their bow, fine. But, bare shaft tuning is "no longer the sole and only way" to tune an arrow to a bow since the DSC program came along. I'm proof of that.
I shoot without fletch most of the time when I'm praticing! It not only tells you if your arrows are spined right and your nock point is set right it also checks your form. If you can shoot a good group without fletch, with fletch will be just that much better and if you can't, better check your FORM. Try it.
Broad head flight is critical, but I have seen some good designs fly just fine not tuned that well. Bare shaft works fine also, but I have seen HFOC weak carbons fly to the correct spot and not be tuned well. The way a bare shaft flies tells me more than where it hits. Paper doesn't lie; it tells exactly what the arrow is doing in flight at any given distance.
The calculator is great, but there is a great deal of difference between bows for just one variable. For example, older versions of Stu's calculator would have told you all 3/16" cut past center recurves with the same strike plate thickness had the same spine requirement. Current version shows that there is 5# difference between BW PCH AND PSA models and #10 difference between several different mfr. with same type bow, center cut, and strike plate thickness. Thinks about the difference between an A@H ACS and a D shape LB with R/D limb design. Both are R/D LB's, but with very different performance and spine requirements. Not every bow made is in the calculator yet. Throw in your release and you can throw off the calculator a lot. I like the calculator, but you still have to shoot to verify. You should never just cut down arrows and set them all up based on the calculator.
I am with Ryan on this one. I did strip the feathers off an arrow once to see what all the hoopla was about and found out that it grouped right in with my other arrows, target points and broadheads mixed out to about 30 yards. I may be lucky but I have never had a hard time getting arrows to fly good unless I am getting sloppy with my release.
If a person's release isn't good, when using the calculator, it will throw the calculator off. I will agree with that.
But, the same result will happen if a person's release slightly plucks the string and he/she doesn't realize it when bare shafting. The slightly bad release will throw bare shafting way off also.
If someone is going to use the calculator, they need to adjust, not just point weight, but brace height as well.
In my situation, the calculator for me is the holy grail. Because I shoot low poundage bows with aluminum arrows and combined with my 30" draw length, I want 1 1/2" of clearance between the back of a very sharp broadhead and the knuckle on my left index finger that grips the bow below the shelf. This is why I don't measure clearance from the back of a broadhead to the riser's shelf. Thus, the reason why I shoot 32" BOP arrows.
The calculator is basically a virtual "what if" program. With the calculator, one can pick the length of arrow they want to shoot and then plug in different point weights to see what's feasible. This can't be done with bare shafting. With bare shafting, one has to have the actual arrow and shoot it.
In my case, I would never have considered a 2212 aluminum arrow with a 75 grain point weight shot out of both bows if I was bare shaft tuning. The calculator let me play around with a 2212 arrow without having to buy a half dozen 2212 shafts first.
The 75 grain point weight is the lowest point weight threshold I can go with because there are 3 blade 75 grain broadheads out there and Muzzy has one I like.
There is one other lower spined full length shaft that comes in a 32" length or more. That is a 2013. But; in order to shoot the 2013 in a 32" length, with the calculator, I would need a 40 grain point weight with my 37# and 42# bows. This wouldn't work for me because there are no 40 grain broadheads.
The calculator will give someone the same results as bare shaft tuning, but that is predicated on the correct info being put in all the boxes in the calculator. One can't have the wrong info and expect a very good result.
In closing, I don't know how to do a screen capture shot, but I will put up my stats with my 42# recurve using the calculator with a 2212 arrow. Keep in mind, I weigh all the component parts of an arrow with a balance beam scale. If you have the calculator on your computer, plug in the numbers below.
Box #1: Arrow Shaft Size, 2212 X7 Arrow
Box #2: BOP Length, 32"
Box #3: Point Weight, 75 Grains
Box #4: Insert Weight, 31 Grains
Box #5: Footing, NO
Box #6: Nock End Weight, 22 Grains
Box #7: Fletching, 3 x 5"
Box #8: Bow Type, Generic Recurve (Blacktail not listed)
Box #9: Rated Weight, 42#
Box #10: Rated Draw, 30"
Box #11: Your (My) Draw, 30"
Box #12: Center Cut/Strike Plate Position, (-1/16)
Box #13: String Material Type, Fast Fight 12 Strand
Box #14: Personal Form Factor, (0)
If you run the numbers, the arrow dynamic spine and arrow spine are both 57#. What isn't seen is the brace height adjustment (7 7/8") which enables me to shoot the 2212 with a 75 grain point weight.
I guess I'm just a hands-on kind of guy, but I'd much rather shoot a range of bare shafts and see what works in the real world, than to try to arrive at what MIGHT work with mathematics. Either way you actually have to shoot some arrows. If I've seen a bare shaft shoot straight into the target, I KNOW that my finished arrows will work.
If you have poor form or release, how will you ever know if you've gotten to the right place? Without good form and release, broadheads are not likely to shoot well for you, whether the spine is right or not. A person should work on form and release BEFORE trying to fine-tune arrows to the bow, whatever method is ultimately used. Once the basics are taken care of, then you can learn something about tuning and decide which method works best for you.
As long as you end up with a skinned cat, it doesn't matter how you got the skin off.
I agree with Don, I'd much rather try a couple and see how they are flying than model on a computer or calculator. Bareshafting is so easy even a cave man could do it; and maybe did! :bigsmyl:
IMO Bear-shafting is great for carbon arrows, because they are very consistent. So I don't bareshaft with wood. For me is a great method to bareshaft with carbon arrows (till 30 yards at least, but beginning on 10), put the values in Stu's calculator and then find the same dynamic spine for wood. Then I try the fletched wooden arrows and see how the fly. Are the going where I want to? Ok, then they are all-right.
I shoot from 15 to 50 yards with them.
Consequent tooo much to the left or right? To high or low spinevalue. Consequent too high or low? Change nocking point hight.
No pattern at all??? Yoy'll have to work on your form!!!!!
All tuning-methods are not any use if your form isn't consequent.
But I must confess that for my bow and my form Stu is dead-on!
Just my five cents...
mistake, did something wrong with editing
Bare shafting lets me find the nocking point in about 2 minutes. For a 3rd year rookie, thats priceless.
Joshua