To anyone who is having problems with getting a sharp broadhead, doesn't have the money for a sharpening system or just wants an easy way to do touch ups out in the field, I strongly suggest trying the file. It's cheap, easy and will produce a razor sharp edge.
After reading this: www.bowyersedge.com/broadhead.html (http://www.bowyersedge.com/broadhead.html) I was able to get a shaving sharp edge on a new out of the box broadhead with just a file and all in less than 5 minutes.
Give it a try.
Sounds simple enough.
Good read. Thanks for posting.
The old file and a strip of leather has worked for years!!! No need to change now!
Nice link. I'm going to (pardon the pun) "file" the link for future reference. :D
Can someone tell me exactly what file they're using and where they got it?
I've tried using a mill b*st*rd file before that I got from the Home Depot, but I don't think it was fine enough. I can only get a rough edge.
I'm sure I need more practice sharpening, but the right file would certainly be helpful.
Thanks for the info. I would also like to hear who makes the best file for sharpening a broadhead. Thanks
If you can get you a mill smooth instead of mill bastard, it is a finer cut file. Buy a good USA made Nicholson brand, keep it clean and rust free and it will last you a long time.
the only fault I find with these instructions is that you're told its OK to do it while holding the item in your hand, in your lap.
For the sharpening-challenged, this is probably not a good thing.
My point is simple- it's very difficult to avoid 'moving' the piece you're sharpening while running the file across the edge- if you do that, you have a tendency to round the edge, rather than sharpen, and to sharpen unevenly.
It's a much better idea to place the head against something like the end of a stair railing, or a bench, or whatever you have handy that will not move when you file against the head, and in that way you can get even pressure while filing the blade from end to end.
Also, if you do it outside, it's a lot easier to see the burr - it should look like aluminum foil on the edge of your blade. If you raise it up, and get it moving side to side with your strop material- cardboard, smooth leather etc- you can then see the foil edge as it peels off.
Once it does, STOP.
Also, if you are doing single bevels- ALWAYS BEGIN BY FLATTENING THE 'FLAT' SIDE OF THE HEAD BY MOVING IT FLAT ON YOUR FILE- WHICH YOU LAY ON A TABLE EDGE. THE FLAT SIDE OF YOUR HEAD IS NOT FLAT UNTIL YOU FILE IT THAT WAY- PAINT, UNEVEN CUTTING OR FORGING- WHATEVER CAUSES IT- YOU CANNOT HOPE TO HAVE A SHARP HEAD UNTIL THE FLAT SIDE IS FLAT- FOR CERTAIN.
Thank you for for sharing this. I'll have to give it a try.
Heres a source for mill smooth files. Pretty affordable at $8.00.
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1358
All I'm using is one of the 8" Grobet broadhead Files from 3river that I got for $9, seems to work pretty well but I'm no expert.
I read somewhere that it is also good to chalk a new file to increase its life.