How does everyone keep their wood arrows sorted by spine? I dont have a spine tester yet to test them incase they get mixed up or I forget. But was thinking of just putting a certain color nock on a certain spine rating of shafts.
What does everyone else do?
James
I write the spine and physical weight of every arrow on the arrow, usually between the fletching.
Yup, I do what Orion does.
I write on an index card the spine and weight of arrows I build for others. For myself, I only make 60-65# shafts, so it makes it easy to keep track of my own.
I should write it on the shafts, I had a system of using different colored nocks to tell which were which. the orange Mercuries were for 60-65s and the yellow classic were for 55s, no wait it was the yellows for heavies and oranges were for my light weights, I know it was the green fletching for the light weights, except some of the ones with mixed nocks when I ran low on green feathers and had use yellow and chartreuse and either orange or yellow nocks. Its a perfect fool proof system. I hit this confusion last fall and my son said "where'd you learn to make arrows the University of My C##**r Itches.?"
I like the idea of writing it between the fletchings. I may try that.
James
Each bow gets different color combo fletching. Keep the same for both aluminum and wood. Blue, White, barred Yellow = 65# Rose Oak recurve, Orange, White, barred Yellow = 60# Predator recurve. And so on................
While they are still shafts I write the spine on the end I'll be trimming off ( point end not nock end) Then arrows are made for a specific bow with different fletch and crest for each bow. Once the arrow is made it goes to a specific bow IF I were to get a new bow Id know if any arrows were compatible or not .
I think the army or one of the branches use to use color for numbers. Like black=7, white=0, etc. I read it on one of these sites a number of years ago. It would work good for cresting.
Resistor codes
Black 0
Brown 1
Red 2
Orange3
Yellow4
Green 5
Blue 6
Violet7
Gray 8
White 9
Or, depending how many spines you keep; no band ahead of the nock = 60-65#, one band = 65-70# and two bands = 70-75#, and three bands = 75-80#.
I just made my own spine tester, and am about all done marking my arrows. I write them in-between the fletching. I tried the different colored nocks/feathers thing, but couldn't keep them straight.
QuoteOriginally posted by Stumpkiller:
Resistor codes
Black 0
Brown 1
Red 2
Orange3
Yellow4
Green 5
Blue 6
Violet7
Gray 8
White 9
Or, depending how many spines you keep; no band ahead of the nock = 60-65#, one band = 65-70# and two bands = 70-75#, and three bands = 75-80#.
Very slick idea. I really like this.
QuoteOriginally posted by Stumpkiller:
Resistor codes
Black 0
Brown 1
Red 2
Orange3
Yellow4
Green 5
Blue 6
Violet7
Gray 8
White 9
Or, depending how many spines you keep; no band ahead of the nock = 60-65#, one band = 65-70# and two bands = 70-75#, and three bands = 75-80#.
Yeah, but what about the tolerance? :p
No color for stumping, silver for 3-D, and gold for hunting? :D
The tolerance is always 10% unless I made them then it's 50. :bigsmyl:
I keep all my arrows in 5 gal plastic buckets with cardboard tubes. Each bucket represents a different spine. The bucket I reach into depends on which bow I have in my hand.
I have a length of 2 x 12 with 2' pieces of 10" PVC pipe screwed down on it and write spine wt on tubes.
I use a permanent ink marker and write the spine weight up between the fletchings. Most all of my bows shoot the same spine weight so for the most part it isn't a concern. I do have one bow that is 2#-5#lbs lighter than the others though.