just got my broadheads last week and was doing some shooting. they hit with the field tips where i want but the tail of the arrow seems to be angled to the left. so what does that mean? im using 250gr tusker concordes with left bevel
BH's make the arrow a tad longer and therefore weaker causing a slight tuning imbalance. Can you reduce the up front weight? I am assuming you are a rightie.
ya rightie. still havnt sharpened the heads, kme said that will take a bit of wieght off. i can still trim down the arrows a little and play around i guess since i have a saw
Go slow on the arrow shortening if you are using carbons they can get stiff in a hurry.
When you say slow, how slow 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, or 1/2
thanks
Most people go 1/4".
I go 1/8" when I'm getting real close, and this may sound stupid; however, I like to shoot them more than one day before continuing to trim. I normally wear myself out shooting and trimming, and often when starting fresh, the next day, the results aren't quite the same. :dunno:
OOOPS!!. Shawn
BWD,
True, True! I think too much shooting, practicing or especially trying to dial in your arrows can be fatigueing and lead to diminishing returns. Quality shots, Quality results.
Keith
Very good advice!
so do the majority think im to weak? back end pointing to the left? just want to much sure before i trim down a a few arrows to try
Are your field points the same weight? If so, then try a couple of bare shafts with the broadheads. If they group to the right (don't worry about nock orientation) then you're underspined for a right hand shooter. Going shorter on the shaft is one approach. Adding a little thickness to your strike plate is another. Adding some weight to the nock end will also add stiffness.
Do many of you bareshaft with broadheads? I thought that was a no-no. Just asking; I have never done that.
I have never bare shafted broadheads,have been warned not to by some knowledgeable shooters.I don't want to find out.Broadhead fletched arrows seem to be more sensitive than bare shaft field pointed ones so tuning with broadhead fletched is what I do.
I would think that adding sideplate thickness would be the easiest fix if they are that close.
I've found the planing method to be a more accurate one. Follow this to a great description and methodology of it. This is one of the best write ups I've ever found.
http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm