I recently changed from aluminum arrows to the MFX 400 Classics and use the the glue-on brass inserts for both points and broadheads.
My problem is that when shooting my field points at my block target, they are unusually hard to pull from the target because the circumference of the 125 gr. points are wider than the MFX shaft.
3Rivers told me that it was just the way it is and that I needed to just deal with it.
Anyone have the same problem or have advice/tip to make this more bearable.
I'm thinking about changing shafts...
Set-up 62AMO, 55#@29" SilverTip & 60AMO, 54#@29" Morrison, 8 strand SBD string.
One other problem is that I have a very hard time keeping my feathers glued on the Classic finish unless I put an arrow wrap on first. My hunting arrows have wraps but my target arrows don't and they are the ones I keep having to re-glue my feathers on.
Thanks!
A 9/32 125 gr should just about match the diameter of your MFX. As far as the feathers are concerned make sure you clean your shaft well before applying the fletch and once it is clean do not touch that area again until after the fletch has been put on. I have heard of guys also scuffing up the area with a Scotchbrite pad before applying the feathers.
Good Shooting,
Craig
QuoteOriginally posted by monkeyball:
A 9/32 125 gr should just about match the diameter of your MFX.
What he said.
As Craig just said if you get the 9/32" field points made for the Beman/Axis shafts they are the same diameter as the shaft. Because of the f.o.c. and the small diameter, they still will penetrate deeper into the target making them a little more difficult to extract. Having some experience with the MFX shafts for some time now, I would strongly suggest that you clean your shafts with 91% isopropyl alcohol as Beman tech support will instruct you if you contact them. DO NOT use acetone. Personally, I have ended up using Bohning fletch tape with a spot of Duco on the front and back of the fletching where it contacts the shaft, works great for me.
I use the 9/32 bullet field points that 3 Rivers sells and they work great. I have had trouble with keeping fletching to stay on. I now either use wraps on them or sand lightly with 320 grit sand paper on the fletching area and clean with alcohol.
Hap, I forgot to mention that there are some lubricant systems out there that make pulling the skinny shafts or any other ones from targets much easier and to me the best one is the "lube tube" by Kent Tinney at www.plentycoupsarchery.com (http://www.plentycoupsarchery.com)
I have been using the 11/32nds field points (glue-ons) on 9/32 brass broadhead/fieldpoint adapters because this what 3Rivers suggested I use. Again, the field points are wider than the shaft.
Could they have been wrong here?
The compressed targets are no problem with pulling them, but the block takes alot more effort as they pull smoothly until you get back to the base of the point and then you really have to give them a tug. Maybe more of a block problem than anything else.
I have scuffed the arrows up for the feathers and glue and haven't touched them before hand.
I may just have to either wrap my target arrows or try the fletch tape as I've heard great things about the tape.
Thanks all!
QuoteOriginally posted by Jim Wright:
Hap, I forgot to mention that there are some lubricant systems out there that make pulling the skinny shafts or any other ones from targets much easier and to me the best one is the "lube tube" by Kent Tinney at www.plentycoupsarchery.com (http://www.plentycoupsarchery.com)
Thanks, Jim! I'll look into that!
I believe someone at 3rivers may have had a "brain cramp" and you might be better served by using the ones with the glue-in adapters for broadheads if they cannot be removed (depending upon what kind of and how much adhesive). For field use, glue in an H.I.T. inert cf a weight (50, 75, or 100 grains are available)that corresponds with approximately how much weight is in your shafts with the glue-in adaptors and use a field point that brings the total weight up to the same as your broadhead set-up. The 9/32" field points are available in 100, 125 and 145 grain weights. If you had to go to 5/16" 175 grain field points they bevel down in the rear and work reasonably well.
QuoteOriginally posted by Jim Wright:
I believe someone at 3rivers may have had a "brain cramp" and you might be better served by using the ones with the glue-in adapters for broadheads if they cannot be removed (depending upon what kind of and how much adhesive). For field use, glue in an H.I.T. inert cf a weight (50, 75, or 100 grains are available)that corresponds with approximately how much weight is in your shafts with the glue-in adaptors and use a field point that brings the total weight up to the same as your broadhead set-up. The 9/32" field points are available in 100, 125 and 145 grain weights. If you had to go to 5/16" 175 grain field points they bevel down in the rear and work reasonably well.
Jim...The 9/32 100 gr. brass broadhead adapters are "glue-ins" inside the shaft (I used hot melt glue & not epoxy) and "glue-ons" for the broadhead/filed point. And because I wanted glue-ons on both the brass insert side and the field point/broadhead side, 3Rivers said that I had to use the 11/32nd 125 points that match my glue-on 125 Magnus heads even though the collar of the point was noticebly wider than my MFX shaft.
I may have to go to scew-ins all the way around.
Adding some chamfer to the back of the field point may alleviate some of the issue.
As has been pointed out, you need the field point made for the Beman/Axis skinny carbons. They're approx. 9/32nds and available in 100, 125, and 145 grains last time I looked. I've got all 3, but need some 5/16ths in 145 grains. If you've got some of those(no 11/32nds please), PM me and we'll swap. The shipping will still probably run us as much as a dozen new points, but not what 3Rivers would charge.
-Hap,
Excuse my post, I just reread your last post and if I understand it I probably don't have what you need. I do think if you know what your Magnus and insert weigh together you can get there with a screw-in field point. The heavy ones (200,225&250) come already tapered and should be a little easier to pull. I'm guessing you're glue-on/insert homemades have a nasty little square shoulder offset.
ODG...you are correct:
"I'm guessing you're glue-on/insert homemades have a nasty little square shoulder offset."
That they do...thanks for the reply...I may have to go to screw-ins. I hate that because I came from the old school of swedges on both ends of the shaft...target points, broadheads, nocks and all.
I think I only have a dozen alum 2216's left from the 80's swedged that way!
I use the 9/32 and they work fine.
When I need heavier points I just taper the back of the point with a Dremel tool. It takes a couples grains off, but in the grand scheme of things, it is no big deal.
Some points are already tapered on the back.
For glueing fletching directly onto the MFX shaft, I have been using super glue gel. I clean my shafts with alcohol first to make sure there are no contaminants. Then I put a drop of super glue liquid on the front and back of the feather.
I prefer using wraps, easier to refletch when the feathers get wore, tore, or just plain trashed from shooting.
QuoteOriginally posted by CRS:
I use the 9/32 and they work fine.
When I need heavier points I just taper the back of the point with a Dremel tool. It takes a couples grains off, but in the grand scheme of things, it is no big deal.
Some points are already tapered on the back.
For glueing fletching directly onto the MFX shaft, I have been using super glue gel. I clean my shafts with alcohol first to make sure there are no contaminants. Then I put a drop of super glue liquid on the front and back of the feather.
I prefer using wraps, easier to refletch when the feathers get wore, tore, or just plain trashed from shooting.
Thanks CRS...I will give the 9/32's a try...they can't hurt to try. I have a Dremel as well so I'll try that too. Thanks!
Another solution is adding an aluminum footing (2016, maybe 2018 for 400's... do some research on this site). I use a length to cover at least half of the HIT insert for added protection. I spin it in a drill against a stone to bevel the back end of the footing prior to installation. A side benefit is your field points (and most broadheads) will now meet up cleanly to it.
I sand down the shafts with 220 grit sand paper and clean with rubbing alcohol, then use Loc tight control gel, super glue. The feathers do not come off no matter how bad I abuse them
PDP pretty much makes all their combo style points with a bit of a bevel on the trailing edge of the point. I find them somewhat easier to remove.
If 3 rivers does not carry them check with Lancaster. I know they have them.
As far as block targets go I find the Rinehart products to be light years better than the others. If you are shooting a 3D event notice how much easier it is to pull arrows from the Rineharts and yet the penetration is less.
DDave
I use a three step process in cleaning the shafts before I glue on feathers. Start with 0000 steel wool and denatured alcohol. Scrub the shaft well. Then clean with a dry rag, then one more time with a rag and more denatured alcohol. It seems to work well for us.
9/32" tips are NOT the same diameter as the Beman MFX or Easton Axis arrows. I have the same problem pulling them from targets. Even the ones with the back taper are a little tough at times. The Easton Axis I have are 17/64" in diameter. I was able to find 100 and 125 gr tips in 17/64 through PDP if I remember correctly. This fixed my problem.
Dave
Just like Larry, I use 0000 steel wool and then clean with denatured alcohol. :thumbsup:
Bill
Thanks, Guys!
I haven't ried the 220 grit paper or the steel wool yet.
Question: on the MFX Classics...does this take the "wood grain coating" off of the carbon shaft or are we sanding just a little bit so as not to take the coating off?
Thanks!
have a footing on mine taper the back, points fit just right
QuoteOriginally posted by Johnny UMAA:
Thanks, Guys!
I haven't ried the 220 grit paper or the steel wool yet.
Question: on the MFX Classics...does this take the "wood grain coating" off of the carbon shaft or are we sanding just a little bit so as not to take the coating off?
Thanks!
Just light enough will remove some of the very top layer of wood grain, but not all the way through the layer
Thanks, SM!
9/32 will fix the problem....I turned down some 11/32 and still had the same problem.
No problem at all with 9/32! :thumbsup:
Using 0000 steel wool just scuffs up the clear finish over the wood grain.