My 4" feathers that I fletch with tape want to curl at the rear and come off the shaft. I using carbon shafts and I wipe down with alcohol prior to applying. Has anybody else had this problem?
i believe when using fletch tape, you still glue the start and end of the feathers with a little dot
I use a dab a glue on the front and back too, make sure you dont touch the tape the oil in your fingers can make the tape not stick very well. I had some problems at first but once you get the hang of it works great and no more glue on my fletcher and that mess glue can cause
I use fletch tape and 4" feathers on all my arrows. Ive had the same issue-back of feather curling-started using a drop of super glue on back, issue resolved. Good luck, Shane
That's why i like wraps and glue on carbon arrows
What type of alcohol are you using? Rubbing or denatured alcohol? Use denatured for best results.
watch out what super glue you use on the front and back of the fletch i found out the hard way that lock tight super glue will eat the tape and the fletching comes loose
I also use a drop of regular fletch glue on the front and back of the quill. Works really well. Quick and effective. I also prefer to have a wrap on the shaft. The tape really bonds to the wrap well.
you could try a drop of super glue on the ends
i use super glue for fletching, once i glue my fetching on i want them to stay on.
the dot of glue to the ends of a taped fletch is mostly to transition the quill base to the shaft so the quill won't stick up and be a hazard of sorts.
both the quill base and shaft must be cleaned prior to mating the two - i use naphtha (lighter fluid) but alky works just as well.
the fletch must be seated to the shaft with at least moderate pressure.
after all the fletching is on the arrow, each fletch needs to be pressed down yet again, from front to back - either do this with a fingernail on the quill base or run a finger across the entire fletch. then add the dot of glue to the fletch ends.
click on the image below to kick off the photobucket video ... soundtrack courtesy of occasional female frivolity. :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/vid/th_MOV06270.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/vid/?action=view¤t=MOV06270.mp4)
Guys thanks for the comments and instructions :thumbsup: I didn,t mention that I also use superglue on the front and back after fletching and I still have issue with the back curling off. Now as for the type of Alcohol I use it is rubbing Alcohol, is this the problem?
Rob, thanks for the video! I do mine pretty much the same way except for not using "lighter fluid" and i also noticed that you clipped both ends of the tape. I only clip the back end, and try and get the front even when laying it on. I was thinking maybe that could cause problems with oil from my fingers, but it's not the front that giving me the problems, it the back end that being clipped??
Rob,
How do like the Bearpaw fletcher?
i ue rubbing alcohal and put a dot of fleth glue on eachcend and feathers are staying on great. give robs video a watch
I have had this happen sometimes. But I think it was because I did not use alcohol and the shafts.
john, i use either grayling, bohning, martin or bitz fletchers - don't have a bp.
it's possible that not clipping the tape at the ends of the fletch could be an issue as the glue dot doesn't span the quill and shaft. dunno for sure.
as with any fletching adhesive, cleanliness of shaft and quill, good fletch pressure, fletch end glue dots are paramount. it's gonna be a gamble if your finger oil touches the shaft or quill.
though a taped fletched arrow can be shot immediately after coming out of the fletching jig, the tape also has a "cure" period and will be it's strongest bond within a few hours to overnight.
I use wraps and tape on my carbon shafts. I never wipe anything.
I have not had a problem with 4" or 5" feathers lifting at all. I do put a drop of glue front and back but it is not really needed.
If you get too radical with the feather twist and your clamp doesn't get it down on the shaft good, it might cause a problem.
I always use a finger nail to seat the fletch on the shaft good after removing the clamp.
I would not use rubbing alcohol at all, denatured alcohol or acetone if you want to use anything.
I hope you get it figured out.
I wrap a piece of fletch tape around the front and back ends of my feathers. I stretch it a bit to pull it tight as I wrap it around the shaft and overlap at least once all the way around. This catches a wee bit of dirt on the exposed adhesive side of the tape after its been used some but I have never had a feather come loose, front or back, that has been applied in this way, even with the most radial helical you can imagine. I have never been a slave to fashion and have not been one to try and shoot pretty arrows, strictly interested in function so a little dirt doesn't bother me aesthetically.
Rubbing alcohol is NOT what you want to use. It has oil in it so that it doesn't dry your skin out, and will contaminate the shaft. I have used tape and cleaned the shafts with denatured alcohol for years,and the feathers will disintegrate before the tape lets go. I will add though, make sure the tape is not too old - it does have a shelf life, I found out the hard way.
like mahantango said NO RUBBING ALCOHOL!!! Denatured alcohol only...no oil in it...
I live in a hotter and dryer climate not dis-similar to Mississippi. I am wondering if heat has anything to do with the tape releasing at the rear of the fletch in the warmer climate. Fletch tape to wood arrow finished with polyurethane. Or (2) did the fletch tape in the hot garage lose its stick? The only thing that held em down was the dots of duco at the fore and rear of each feather. :thumbsup:
I'll quit using the rubbing alcohol and try something else. What will work with a painted cap? I have been spray painting a cap on my carbons, what will clean them for fletching but not soften the paint?
I've seen yur arras fly.Why not just shoot bare shaft? But ifin ya must have em fletched when them turkey feathers arrive bringem to me and you'll have to grind em off!!
Thanks Kirk, your getting to know how picky I am.
I have tried tape and glue. The tape appears to work until you shoot a few times. Then they start flying off. I have stuck to glue ever since. I say just get rid of the tape.
The ones that are curling are usually freshly fletch and not shot yet. My experience with Tape is when it stick right it is a very durable fletch.
mylar spin wings and kurly vanes for target arrows have always used fore and aft fletch binding. if yer still having trouble keeping the taped fletchings on (which you shouldn't!), doing the fletch binding will *totally* secure the fletchings. you can get the uber thin (but really strong!) binding tape (also called "lining tape") online.
(http://alternativess.com/kurlyvanes/images/kvlin.jpg)
Rubbing alcohol from the store has water in it, it is only 20% actual alcohol. Denatured is, ethanol alcohol, with additives such as methanol and acetone, to make the alcohol unpalatable. The alcohol you have been using is mostly water. If you want pure Iso alcohol, get it at a local paint supplier, it would be listed as anhydrous, no water.
John,
I too have been using the fletch tape for a lot of years. Wraps do work real well for adhesion. I used to spray the back end of the shaft with a water based poly, this helps a lot with adhesion. I do use a drop of glue but only on the front end, not the back. When I put a drop on front and back I experienced the fletch popping and being held only front and back. Not putting glue on the back solved this issue. Good luck.
ALDO
I have tried all the cleaning products on bare carbon shafts with tape and glue dots with less than great results. It has been so so in warm weather, but i have had way too many issues in winter. Maybe my tape was not the best. I think i will gry it again when i start using wraps, but i am sticking with glue on bare shafts. From all the post on this issue, it looks to me like the majority of the people, who get the best out of tape, all use wraps.
If your spray painting the ends of the arrows that cold be part of the problem. The paint could be breaking the bond of the adhesive of the tape. I also use binders at the ends of the feathers cut of Onestringer caps, never had a lose feather.