What do you guys use to deburr aluminum shafts after cutting them?
Try a deburing tool made for reloading. RCBS makes one for sure, but I expect any of the reloading companies have one. Fairly cheap.
I use an old pocket knife. Works good enough.
I use countersink bit.
When I shot aluminums, I used the RCBS deburring tool.
QuoteOriginally posted by bulldog18:
When I shot aluminums, I used the RCBS deburring tool.
I use it for carbon as well.. works great and I've been using the same one for over 30 years..
Drill bit.
Chain saw file
I also use a deburring tool made for reloading. Mine is made by Hornady, but any of them would work.
Jeff
Great, thanks everyone. These are the kind of great ideas I was lookin for
Countersink drill bit is the way to go for me. Fast, clean, easy.
Drill bit for me too.
The nice thing about the reloading tool is if you ever put aluminum footings on arrows you can use one end of the tool to deburr the insides of the piece of shaft and the other end of the tool to bevel the outside of the piece and "blend" it into your arrow nicely.
deburring tool for me too. Will debur the inside and outside edge.
Any steel blade at about a 45ยบ angle will debur aluminum if you spin the shaft on the blade.
I use a Standley Utility knife.
You can spend more money on specialize equipment, but it really doesn't work any better than a Stanley Utility knife.
Dremel makes some cone shaped abrasive cutters that are pretty inexpensive. That's what I use
I am a bit fastidious about deburring mine.. I typically like to square the end of the tube with a mill file,, then "slightly" deburr the inside with a deburring tool.
A large chamfer on the inside of the tube promotes splitting out if you hit something too solid such as a hard stump.. The smaller the chamfer, the more tube in contact with the insert, the less likely it will be to allow the insert to push inside the tube.
I like to use the G5 arrow squaring tool on both aluminum and carbon to guarantee the end is square with the shaft, after that a twist with the RCBS deburring tool on the inside and one on the outside remove any burr created in the cutting or squaring process.. It's a handy tool to square the end of the insert as well making sure that the BH has the best chance of spinning true to the shaft..
If you haven't seen the G 5 Arrow Squaring device you should Google it, the thing will save you both time and headaches fooling with BH alignment...
if your using a tubing cutter most of them have a deburring tool mounted on the side. Just slide it up and your ready to go. Thats all i uver used.
We use aluminum arrow shaft tubing for a lot of different shop related stuff. I used a large countersink bit for years but I recently discovered that an old 3 blade BHD like a WW or Snuffer works great for this. Just a light twist or two and done!
Ron
The tang end of a file works pretty well. The tang tapers as it meets the file and I just put the tang end into the shaft till the tapered part meets the inside edge of the shaft. A couple of light turns and the shaft is deburred.
QuoteOriginally posted by Earl E. Nov...mber:
I am a bit fastidious about deburring mine.. I typically like to square the end of the tube with a mill file,, then "slightly" deburr the inside with a deburring tool.
A large chamfer on the inside of the tube promotes splitting out if you hit something too solid such as a hard stump.. The smaller the chamfer, the more tube in contact with the insert, the less likely it will be to allow the insert to push inside the tube.
Agreed, the squarer the end the better durability. A good flush butt joint between the arrow shaft and insert is strongest.
I use my deburring tool that I use on my brass cases after trimming when I reload. It does the inside and outside edges, works like a champ.
QuoteOriginally posted by far rider:
Try a deburing tool made for reloading. RCBS makes one for sure, but I expect any of the reloading companies have one. Fairly cheap.
I didn't read your post before I made mine Far Rider, this is the exact tool that I use. I'm just careful that I don't put any bevel on the shaft end, I only give a couple of quick turns to remove any burrs inside and out.
Great info, thanks everyone! How imparitive would you guys say that it is to have a squaring tool if cutting with manual tube cutters? I understand that cut-off/electric type saws can cause a crooked cut due to dulling blades, etc, but it seems to me that the guide wheels on a tube cutter would keep the cut rather square, right?
I just use a small tube cutter and a round file (like the chainsaw file mentioned earlier) and I have no problems. Just go slow with the tube cutter so you don't bend the shaft inward.
I have used the same deburing tool whether using my old tube cutter or my newer cut-off saw. I have never had a tip split. If I ever hit something that hard it bent the shaft like a bananna.
I used to use my jack knife, now I just touch them to my disc sander. Insures a square and burr-free end.
I drilled a hole one size smaller than the shank of my counter sink bit and drove the end of the bit in to the hole which is on the leg under my work bench. I then just deburr the arrows by turning them with my hands. It's always there and handy to use.
RCBS deburring tool here also.One light twist will do it.
Next step is to square the end with the A.S.D. tool.
John
My arrow saw has a deburing tool built in the end. You just cut and give a quick spin to deburr the inside. I don't fool with the outside as the saw cuts fairly clean. Don