Can anyone help me w/ this. Ive tried downloading it to my computer but im not able to type in any of m own numbers. Im trying ti build some easton fmj's and would like to get my numbers close so i know what spine shaft to buy. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Stephen, I think people on the *********** know Stu's better. He post there on a regular basis.
Bowmania
I use it frequently. When you click on the link for Stu's Calculator it will take a minute to load and come up as a live link. I don't think you can download this program so you can work on it without being connected to the website and on the internet.
Some of the boxes have dropdown arrows like Arrow shaft size, bow type, feather, strike plate thickness, string material type. Click on the arrow and choose the closest to your set up. For the other boxes, highlight the information in them and delete it and type in your specs in decimals where called for.
Use the Rev 12/25/10 revised 2/14/11 (v2). It's pretty easy to use and I'd advise reading the instructions first.
typing in the boxes w/o the drop downs is where im having trouble. I click in the box and hit del or backspace and it does nothing. Wont let me type anything in either.
Try, just clicking on a box & type in your number, than click on the next box..an so on... works for me. I don't use the delete button at all... good luck
I click on the box and then hit the backspace and either type in the info or click on the drop down box. Hope this helps.
Ive tried all those things. Something isnt right, Thanks for the help though.
When it ask you to"open" or "save" you have to save it to your computer, then you can open it with Excel like any other spreadsheet, I have 3 different verision on my computer.
Eric
heck - he is so nice of a guy I just always ask him and he crunches the numbers for me.....wish my computer would let me download it!
I would delete the one you downloaded and download a new version. You have to have excel for it to work I believe. If you are a mac user you will have possibly have issues.
Do you have excel on your computer, it is needed. if you have a Mac you will need office for mac, it has excel in it and again excel is needed.
Its is a direct download to your computer
Stu's program will also work with the free "Open Office" program. It's what I use on my Windows 7 computer. I'm not sure if Open Office has a Mac version.
I dont have a mac. Its a toshiba laptop. Not really sure if i have excell or not. It never asks me if i want to open or save it. I just lick on the link and it opens up. Really confused here. Wish i would have taken some computer classes.
It might be in "read only" format. That's what it did to me when I switched from XP to Windows 7. You may have to go into it's properties and uncheck that. Then you'll be able to play with it.
Im not getting anywhere. Would anyone be willing to run the numbers for me?
I have a trial version of office and it would not work. My wife has full verison and it works great.Burt
QuoteOriginally posted by Stephen Claypool:
Im not getting anywhere. Would anyone be willing to run the numbers for me?
Post up all your info and im sure some one will run them for you.
If anyone is interested in helping me i have my info together. I hate to be a pain in the butt and i hate to have to ask for help. I really want to get these arrows built and dont know if i should buy.400 spine,340 spine or 500 spine.
Arrow-easton fmj .400 i think will be best.
bop- at least 29"
tip weight- 150gr
insert-no
footing-100gr
nock end weight-18gr
fletch- 3x5"
bow type- generic recurve
labeled weight-48#
labeled draw=28"
my draw 28"
string material-fast flight 14 strand.
Here you go buddy:
(http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/6084/tradgang.jpg)
I made one assumption: since you did no mention how much centercut your bow is, I chose the standard value for traditional recurves: -1/8 inclusive strikeplate.
Hope this helps!
If not.... shoot!
Let me know!
Man i hate to bug u even more but. Im actually using a 150 gr broadhead and a 100gr insert that i think is supposed to be added in on the footing. Also im using 3-5" feathers. Sorry really wish i could use the program myself.
The four feathers was my mistake, I will correct that. The weight of the inserts goes into the weight-insert box.
This is how the Eastons come out. With the given information, I end up with a .300 shaft.
(http://img852.imageshack.us/img852/7244/trad.jpg)
This gives you a high FOC, but also a very heigh weight of 13,3 grains per pound (GPP)
I took the liberty to see if I could end around the 10 gpp. I used here 5575 Goldtip Traditionals, very strong arrows with a woodprint. I used them a lot and they are virtually indestructable, as long as you don't shoot at rochs or brick walls. Besides of that; Goldtip has a very convenient weight-insert system.I used here the standard insert of 14,6 grains and a 150 grains broadhead.
I would pefer the set-up with the Goldtip Traditional! The ideal weight of around the 10 GPP and still a FOC of almost 15%. This should give you a great flight!
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/3317/trad11.jpg)
BTW:
Goldtip Traditionals have a shaftlenght of 30,3 inches. If you put this value into Stu, you end up with 67,8 lbs, which is as close as you can get!
No need for shortening the shaft, you just have to glue the inserts in. For this I would advise a two component 24 hours epoxy. 3rivers sells it and once I used it, I never looked back!
If you have anymore questions....shoot! :archer2:
Thank You so much for your time dutchman. I appreciate you helping me out. Im not sure i understand though. The way i read the chart i would need a 67-70# bow for either of those arrows set ups to work. Am i reading it wrong? What exactly Are the arrow dynamic spine boxs saying?
Yes, you are reading wrong. You have your rated bow weight, in this case 48 lbs. When filling in all the different boxes, you come to a certain dynamic spine, in your case 67,4.
So you are shooting a 48 lbs bow with a dynamic spine of 67,4. The dynamic spine is determined by several factors, such as how much centercut your bow is, what kind of bow you have, your drawlengt and so on. When everything filled in correctly, you come to the dynamic spine value of your bow.
The whole idea of Stu is finding an arrow, which has the same dynamic spine as your bow has. The tow black boxes should be as close as possible, at least 2 lbs.
In your case I gave you two different arrows: the easton Axis .300 and the Goldtip traditional 5575.
The dynamic spines of both arrows match up perfectly with that of your bow. The only difference is that they have a different point-weight. I would prefer the Goldtip solution as I told you already.
The spine is called dynamic because you can't measure it on a tester. i.e. when you use a heigher point weight, your arrow will be less stiff. However, when you put the arrow on a spine tester, you won't notice any difference. You will notice this only while shooting. Hence the term: Dynamic. Capiche?
In Stu you can virtually "tune" your arows, by adding weight, making the shaft shorter/longer as you can see in the boxes.
So four yor bow of 48 lbs you can use both arrows
Capiche!
Thank you so very much.
I guess the part that threw me off was the bottom dynamic spine box where it said "required pounds". I already have a dz of the fmj .300 shafts that i use to use w/ my 70# compounds, so i will build them and play. Also i will take you advise on the gold tips and build a lighter 10gpp shaft too. Thanks again for all your help.
No thanks and let me know how it ends!
Will do bud.
Steve and Dutch,
I also use FMJ 400's with 100 grain brass inserts. Therefore, you put ZERO in the insert box and in the footing box you put "YES" and in the two boxes below the "yes box" you put 1.4 for the length and 100 for the weight. Yes, HIT inserts act as a footing so the insert box, like I said would be left blank.
I ran the numbers and with Easton FMJ 400's, 150 point weight, 18 grain nock end weight, and 3x5 fletching, the arrow length of 28 11/16" would come to an arrow dynamic spine of 67.5 vs an arrow dynamic spine required of 67.4.
Hope this helps and answers any questions. In the instructions it gives a good example of how to figure out footing numbers.
I just ran the numbers with FMJ 340's and an arrow length of 30 1/4" would give a dynamic spine of 67.2 vs 67.4 required. The FMJ 500's with all the same input numbers would require an arrow length of 27 -27 1/4" which is probably too short for you.
You are right yeager, buth the differences between filling in as "footing" or "insert" are very small, we are talking about 1 lbs or so.
Nevertheless, you are right.
Stephen, you can down load Open Office for free and it works good.
http://download.openoffice.org/other.html
Ok yeager thanks for your time.
From what i read the hit insert was supposed to be in the footing box, but i didnt know it would make that much of a difference.
Ranger thank you too, but i already downloaded open office the other day.Unfortunately im not smart enough to figure it out.
Flying dutchman. I tried the .300s today set up like we talked about except i didnt cut them yet. They bare shafted well and actually grouped w/ some .400's i set up the same way. This is all new to me and getting very confusing. In another thread i started everyone is telling me the 300's are way to stiff so ill try the 400's for now and see where that gets me. Thanks for taking the time.
Some of you really need to read the instructions.
there is misinformation here regarding how to treat inserts longer then .90 inches and how correctly calculate inserts as footings.
Here is the direct link to the instructions in pdf format.
Instructions for using Stu\\'s Calculator (http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/calculatorinstructions.pdf)
Stephem,
if the 400's perform well, use them!