I just got off the phone with KME. I ordered the knife sharpener with the diamond stones. And a (4) pack of the regular stones. I cant wait to sharpen my knifes and my stinger broadheads. Hopefully I can get them sharp. its all pretty new to me never really sharpened anything but after hearing all the good reviews I just had to see what all the hype was all about. thanks guys
Best money you ever spent. Knife sharpener has to be the best ever designed. I've had mine from day one and my knifes are super sharp always. Ron is also a great guy to talk to........enjoy have fun and sharpen you kitchen knifes and your wife will love for it..............moose
Thanks moose cant wait to get it
Just received mine,I can't wait to use it,very well made. :thumbsup:
I have had mine for 6 months and I have sharpend every knife in the house. Great sharpener, Great people.
Jeff
No doubt about it, they're a well-conceived and manufactured piece of equipment.
KME is the best system I'm aware of.It can make anyone look like they know what they are doing.Ron and the gang are O.K. too! :goldtooth:
Bill
Got the Knife and the Broadhead systems (liked the BH holder so much I bought a second so I can do two at a time) and cannot say enough about how great the KME systems work and the people at KME are. If you have questions or an issue they are all over it fast!
I have the KME Broadhead sharpening kit...it works GREAT!!
I have the knife system with diamond stones and it works great! I use mine for all my knives and stinger BH's. Remember to use very light pressure, and let the tool do the work.
Glen
Best tool on this Planet !!! Just make sure you do not leave the coarse stone until you got a good burr full length of the blade or head. Use a sharpie to mark your bevel on the blade so you can see when you are getting close to getting a good bevel and then a good burr. After that it is only a matter of how many grits you want to go thru and how refined and polished you want it. Never had a knife this sharp or seen one this sharp. Gutted 5 deer this year with Buck 110 folder and it still shaves hair EFFORTLESSLY !!! All I did was wash the blood, hair, and fat off the blade, stropped it on leather about 10 passes in between each deer. Cannot say enough good about Ron and KME. Never know what a TRULY sharp knife was till KME came along. JMHO
As we say in KY. "Somethin's Fixin' to bleed.
My KME does my Stingers and all hard metal broadheads like the Muzzy Phantoms etc. a world of good.
The good news TJ is that if it us bleeding instead of the intended target the edge is so sharp it doesn't hurt ! You may not even know you are cut.
What was the line from Jeremiah Johnson....? " They will split us from our crotch to our eyeballs with a dull deer antler "
will they sharpen 3 blade broadheads like snuffers and or woodsman ?
Nope, made for knives and two blade heads only. You can also sharpen removable bleeder blades as well.
Snuffers and WW's get the 16" Nicholson mill bastard, then stropped on a wooden block with thick leather glued on top.
does the KME work with curved heads like Simmons?
Joe
Nope, stones are too wide for the radius of the Simmons. I played around with a chainsaw file by cutting it to length so the KME stone holder of the knife sharpener would hold it. Got them sharp, just not the normal KME sharp. I also found some 1/4" and 3/8" round india stones on line that I could have made work. However, I am now shooting 160 Snuffers pretty much all the time so I gave up trying to sharpen Simmons.
I was wondering when you guys sharpen your 2 blade heads do you guys go up and down with the stone and than finish it off with a pass from heel to tip. Just like the video shows him doing with the knife. I havent got my set yet should be here on monday just getting ready. And do you guys do the same on each side and than go to your next finer stone? never sharpened anything so this is all new to me guys any help is appreciated. What angle do you guys use for your 2 blade stingers? Thanks brad
ttt
babs,
I assume you are talking about using the knife sharpener on your stingers.... If so, take a sharpie and mark the bevels good. Then set your angle on 22-25 degrees, not critical. Then take the coarsest stone you have and grind back and forth till you get a good bevel full length on the stinger on the first side. Once you have that done, flip and do the same to the second side. By this time you should have a burr full length that you can catch with the tip of your nail. Now all you need to do is go thru the grits polishing the bevel and edge you have established. When you get down to the fine stone change to a push only stroke, in other words push the stone up and into the blade 1-2 strokes, then flip. After a few times back and forth you will have one sharp stinger !!!
QuoteOriginally posted by NoCams:
Nope, made for knives and two blade heads only. You can also sharpen removable bleeder blades as well.
Snuffers and WW's get the 16" Nicholson mill bastard, then stropped on a wooden block with thick leather glued on top.
The KME Knife Sharpener "will" sharpen 3 blade broadheads like the Snuffer and WW's. Look at the 6:47 minute mark on the video below and you'll see how this guy sharpens his Snuffers and WW's using the KME Knife Sharpener.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQxh-fWLfsY
I stand corrected Nightwing....
However, and Ron may chime in here.... To steal the line from the movie, " The Hunt for Red October ".... 105 % on the reactor possible, but not recommended ". I see it can be done but I can also see all that rotating in the rubber jaws tearing the rubber up. Also if it was a glue on you would have to glue in an adaptor just to hold it for sharpening. File and leather strop for 3 blades is so much faster and more simple. He is also putting a compound angle on those three blades as well. I would think he is removing much more metal at the tip, thus weakening them. JMHO
so it seems like the knife sharpener is the way to go instead of getting the one just for broadheads?
Personal preference sawtoothscream,but at least with the knife sharpener you will not only have sharp broadheads, but a sharp knife for cutting up the rewards !
QuoteOriginally posted by NoCams:
Personal preference sawtoothscream,but at least with the knife sharpener you will not only have sharp broadheads, but a sharp knife for cutting up the rewards !
If you can get the same good hunting sharp results with the knife one, than it sounds lime the way for me to go. I only plan on using 2 blades for the most part.
end of this thread for you sawtoothscream.... all you need to do is hit the KME website or give them a call for the knife sharpener. You will look back and say as I have, best $$$ I ever spent. You will need to decide about regular or diamond kit. I went with the standard and ordered a extra coarse diamond stone to compliment it. The extra coarse diamond is good for hoggin off metal. In fact for most applications Ron recommends the regular kit. The extra coarse diamond would help you hog metal off any two blade heads that are laminated like a Zwickey. Factory bevel is steep and you need to removed quite a bit of metal. JMHO
I spoke with Ron this morning and ordered one of the broadhead systems, what a nice guy to talk to, I have heard nothing but good things about KME. Money well spent I'm sure. Made in the USA as well.
where do you guys sit your stinger heads in the jaws? do you butt it against the ferrule? I cant seem to get the same angle the factory is. My sharpie marker is only missing half the marks and when I adjust it its took some metal off the ferule? please help
Babs... don't your Stingers come apart? That could solve your problem.
I was wondering if anyone here can show me a picture on where they put there stingers in the knife clamp, and what angle works best for them. I got my knife to sharpen up quick still having problems with the stingers. A picture would help alot thanks gang
Babs,
Sorry man, I meant to post this yesterday... I don't have a picture of a Magnus Stinger in the clamp but here's an Abowyer Brown Bear. This is how we typically place any BHD in the jaws of the knife sharpener. You want the tip extending out to one side and the blade you're sharpening to be as close to parallel with the front of the jaws as possible. This pic shows that the angle is set a bit too low because the ink is only being removed from the shoulder of the bevel. If you need help, give me or Jake a call today or tonight and we'll walk you through it. Thanks,
Ron
800 561-4339
(http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo352/KMEsharp/toohigh.jpg)
Welcome aboard Ron. Great picture. Great product. :thumbsup:
thanks I'll give that a try
Ron,I tried it today and I still seem to take metal off my ferrule unless I take it past 25 degrees and I was told it should be 22-25. When i do get it to take the sharpie marks off the blade the very tip off the broadhead still has the marker on it. about 1/4-1/2 mark left on. Sorry for the questions its the first time trying to sharpen pretty much anything. I did get my buck knife to take my arm hair off lol. Just having trouble with these darn stingers, but I love these broadheads.
QuoteOriginally posted by babs:
Ron,I tried it today and I still seem to take metal off my ferrule unless I take it past 25 degrees and I was told it should be 22-25.
Cha-ching! Sometimes just a little detail... Forget what the angle scale is set at. The angle scales on all clamp-on systems are relative, not absolute. Basic geometry dictates that the sharpening angle with be influenced not only by the height of the rod guide but also by the distance the blade extends out in front of the clamp. Raise the guide up if you need to. Clear the ferrule and you will in fact be sharpening at 22-25 degrees no matter what the scale says. Do take note of the setting though so that when they need to be touched up, you'll be able to reproduce the same bevel angle every time. Keep us posted.
Ron
Ron,
What is the correct angle for a double beveled broadhead-is it 22-25 degrees as well?
Thanks,
Doug
QuoteOriginally posted by DTD:
Ron,
What is the correct angle for a double beveled broadhead-is it 22-25 degrees as well?
Thanks,
Doug
Doug,
Yes 22-25 degrees is about where you want to be but again, the angle scale is relative. Pay more attention to the ferrule clearance than what the angle scale says. The best way to "find" the correct angle is to color the factory bevel with a marker, eyeball the angle as best you can, then take a couple of swipes with a dry stone to see where you took the ink off. If the stone isn't taking ink all the way to the cutting edge, raise the angle till it does. Better to be a bit too high with the angle than a bit too low.
Ron
(http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo352/KMEsharp/relativeangle.jpg)
Excellent info :thumbsup:
Wow this sounds like a great product. I am going to have to look at this product closely. I have been using a little shaver with a file for 20 years but this looks better to me.
Thanks,
John
Thanks ron I think I got it now. my stingers are shaving hair now. thanks for everything
American born and bred.
American made.
Quality people making and selling quality products with an above standard Customer Service.
Questions? :)
If I wasn't too old to have kids, I'd name them after Ron and his Bro!
I am looking at this for my birthday and was just wondering if it was best to purchase right from KME or through a dealer?
habu
Three Rivers and Kustom King and Lost Nation Archery all have the broadhead sharpener. But I think the knife sharpener has to come from KME.
dryad bows sells the knife sharpener i believe
I did order this today, a birthday gift to myself. Can't wait to give it a try.