I am wondering how back quivers and broadheads work out. I imagine the broadhead either cutting/poking holes in the quiver or the broadhead getting caught on the other arrows in the quiver.
Is this a problem for anyone and how is it avoided?
Thanks,
Jethro
Thick foam in the bottom of the quiver takes care of this. That and a double layer of thick leather below the foam.
Just thick leather, and they're fine. Back quivers have been used for a long time. We use them very happily here.
Highly recommend a heavy leather BQ. Had a few problems w/BH's cutting lacings around the bottom. BH's can slide between the sides of the leather tube & the round bottom piece itself. Add leather or foam per above maybe w/enough glue to keep in place. Or, I could have sewn it tighter to start with.
The bottom should be doubled up with at least an inner layer of 8 to 10 ounce leather. Foam like trhese guys said, or if you are a true traditional diehard, a peice of unshorn sheepkin glued down there. The thick wool keeps the heads from banging around, and keeps them off the bottom. I've been using the same backquiver I made from bison hide for about 15 years with the sheephide in it. No problems yet.
Buddy, its best to have a leather spacer in the bottom so that the stitching never comes in contact with the heads. So you are lacing or sewing between three layers of leather, not just the tube and bottom. The heads then hit the leather, with the stitching safe inside it.
Backquivers arent for everyone, but I like them over any other.
This is the only pic I could find of it, in the upper left corner. Very simple, slim, light. Been all over hell and back with it.
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab246/yornoc/STAGandothers013-2.jpg)
I have had the blade slide between the tube part of the body and the bottom piece on laced quivers (not a problem on stitched bottoms), but I just cut a piece of carpet big enough to be snug in the bottom and never have a problem. No issue cutting the sides of the quiver. Now 3 blade heads could be more of an issue, but most back quiver guys I know use 2 blade heads.
With my Steve Catts quiver I have not had any problems. It has a thick leather plug inside. With a homemade one a couple of years ago I had a woodsman cut through the lace and poke me in the love handle. That was quite a shock a 5:00 in the morning.
Heavy leather bottom and a foam plug. Works for me.
2X,Heavy leather bottom and a foam plug. Works for me.
You can make a small leather sheath for the broadhead also. There not hard to make, and they fall off in the quiver when you pull the arrow out most times. I have used these for years without no problem.
I've heard some guys put some dry oatmeal down there to quiet them up....could be a snack too.
I second the Steven Catts quivers. I had him make me up a special order quiver in 2009. For my "sit and ambush" style of hunting, I didn't want or need a typical big quiver capable of holding a dozen arrows. I had him make a back quiver for 3-5 arrows with a thick fleece lining so there's zero noise. I usually bring 3-4 arrows with broadheads.
The bottom of the quiver is so thick that no broadhead is going thru it, not even close.
http://www.hidehandler.com/back_quivers.htm
Yup, third on Catts. Steve makes some bombproof stuff. Cant go wrong with any of his line.
I put some sheepskin in the bottom if I'm using it with broadheads, bargain bin at Tandy always seems to have some.
I do not own a Catts but it's on my little list
QuoteOriginally posted by Archer 1:
You can make a small leather sheath for the broadhead also. There not hard to make, and they fall off in the quiver when you pull the arrow out most times. I have used these for years without no problem.
I have also been useing this method since 1971.
Third on the broadhead sheath,I like the added protection {for the BH and me}
With some of the hints in this thread, I am thinking the back quiver would be good for taking arrows out but maybe not so good for putting them back in.
I have an old Shakespeare quiver with a slice in the side that I repaired. It is just about the width of a Bear Razorhead!
RonP
QuoteOriginally posted by portugeejn:
With some of the hints in this thread, I am thinking the back quiver would be good for taking arrows out but maybe not so good for putting them back in.
I have an old Shakespeare quiver with a slice in the side that I repaired. It is just about the width of a Bear Razorhead!
RonP
That's why I use a Cat Quiver.
Can someone post some pics of the broadhead sheaths?
Also, if you have, say 3 broadheads (not in foam) in your quiver, how do you stop them from getting caught on each other when you pull them out? I am thinking about sharp corners getting caught in the vented portion of other heads.
QuoteOriginally posted by Jethro21:
Can someone post some pics of the broadhead sheaths?
Also, if you have, say 3 broadheads (not in foam) in your quiver, how do you stop them from getting caught on each other when you pull them out? I am thinking about sharp corners getting caught in the vented portion of other heads.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Broadhead+Sheaths_i6098_baseitem.html
If you use 2 blade heads, a properly made quiver of the right weight of leather, and it hangs right and conforms to your back as it should, you will not need fur, oats, a second strap, or any of that business. Neither I nor my hunting buddies who use back quivers extensively have any of the problems people imagine or often seem to be having. Reason, reread the first sentence. :) ;)
Do u use something to cover the broadheads-wont they bang around and get dull??
Dave Mitchell, you got it right. I make my own back quivers and always go with medium grade leather that forms to your back. No other items are needed to keep everything in place. I've tried out some custom quivers at various shoots. They were so hard it was like wearing a scuba tank. The arrows were all over the place and dumped out when bending over.
Broadheads really can't get dull inside a quiver either. Take a handfull of arrows and bunch them together, roll them in your hands. The sharp cutting edges can't possibly touch each other and get dull. I've never lost an edge while carrying my arrows in a back quiver.
Sheep wool is the greatest. I even use it in my Raptor Archery side quiver. It helps keep the broadheads separated, no bounce when you drop the arrow in, and helps keep the sound level down.
The key is a soft,pliable quiver that conforms to your back. Backquivers and multiple blade heads don't get along very well. The perfect marriage is a 2 blade head.
I shaped a large piece of soft foam and placed it in the bottom of my Creger quiver. This "opened" up the bottom while the rest of the quiver sits collapsed on my back. Makes for easy arrow removal and replacing an arrow.
A proper made quiver that collapses keeps the arrows from rattling and your broadheads should never move around and get dull. Forget the oatmeal theory of placing some your quiver bottom to keep the arrows quiet. First time you get caught in a rain storm, your gonna wish you had a spoon instead of your bow.
Catquiver or Bowquiver when using 160 gr 3 blade Snuffers. Below is a pic showing the bottom of my quiver a tad wider and you can see the collapsing start right above. The quiver is actually laying flat against my back.
For demo purposes only....LOL..if I had my hunting clothes on, the pack would be riding higher as would my quiver.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/sf1oak/P7110001.jpg)
I hunted exclusivly with a back quiver for years. Still prefer it for day hunts, rabbit hunging and stumping. I buy a pair of cheap leather work gloves and cut the fingers off, slip them over the broadhead before dropping them into the qiver. Cheaap, ready made braodhead sheath that drops off with no resistance when you draw the arrow out.
Just throwing it out there that I disagree with the soft pliable leather for a hunting quiver. I believe that a quiver should be made out of heavy duty leather and then wet formed to your back. This will delelop the pinch in the middle to keep arrow in place but still tough enought that heads don't cut through if they snag.
iowan, no broadhead sheaths needed. Some guys are making this back quiver thing waaaaay harder than it needs to be--nothing more simple, functional, and trouble free than a good and proper back quiver. Many of the gorgeous and artistic quivers I see for sale these days are totally useless as hunting quivers however and it's no wonder guys get frustrated trying to use them.
my .02 worth....
I use english bridle leather, 8 - 10 oz. which is thick enough to hold it's shape and not collapse when reaching for an arrow, yet it is a very pliable leather. It conforms very well to the back, yet won't stiffen into that position like latigo and veg or chrome tan leather. I've seen veg & chrome tan quivers with a permanently molded bend in the middle of the quiver that makes it very hard to remove and insert arrows. David said it all very well. with a properly made and properly hanging quiver, A TRUE HILL STYLE, you won't need foam, fur top, or anything. I put a double layer of leather in the bottom 1/4" thick which stops broadheads, and a piece of shag carpet which doesn't soak up water and the points grip the carpet texture. However, when all your arrows are grouped together in the side of a Properly Hanging quiver, the fletching interlocks and the arrows don't move, rotate, make noise or anything. Guys with problem quivers aren't using a Properly made HILL STYLE QUIVER. There IS a difference......
Great thread, I have been wondering about this myself...