My son and I have only recently, as in 2 weeks now, taken up recurve shooting, with a Samick Sage 45@28. Our local shop set us up with a dozen Gamegetter xx75 2117s (400). Twice now we've been shooting in our garage range, target is a rolled up carpet, and my son has broken an arrow in the following manner. An arrow in the target sagged just enough so that the second arrow struck it edgewise, penetrating and snapping the 1st arrow.
Are we doing something wrong? Are we shooting too many arrows? Is the target too loose? Any advice would be greatly appreciated by a couple of new traditional archers.
Mahalo,
Chaps
I think your arrows are way to stiff for #45. Try a 2016 >---------->
I also like MJB think your arrows are to Stiff,I shoot 1916's out of my 45# Bows,also the 2016's might work as MJB said,but the 2117's should be to STIFF,Also try shooting at Different Spot's on the Carpet so you aren't as likely to Hit your other Arrows,Good Luck,
Yep BigStriper got it , try a 1916 also :thumbsup:
Sounds like you need a target that allows the arrow to penetrate enough that it sticks in and does not drop. I have done the same thing and it had nothing to do with my arrow shaft. It has happened to me several times after that and when it does I stop and go pull my arrows. A little walk to save a little cash.
Just to assure I was not giving bad advise I just checked the Easton Shaft Chart. I used the following info: recurve bow / 125 grain tip / 29 inch shaft and a draw weight of 43 -48 pounds. They do list the 2117. I think this is a good set up because it gives you 12 grains per inch and a total weight of 348. This weight will assure good energy for penetration on target and game.
In my experience with several 40-45# recurve bows the 2014's, 2114's and 1916's would be what I recommend.
I also would suggest shooting no more than 3 or 4 arrows and then retrieving them.
Arrow shooting should be about precision not a large volume of arrows fired as quickly as possible.
Charles.
Although I killed a deer once with a 2117 out of a 45# bow because they were all I had on hand they are way too stiff. A 1916 with 125 gr upfront will fly nicely.
I appreciate the advice all around. We've started shooting in 4 arrow groups, and looking to pick up some 1916s.
I looked at targets yesterday in SA as well, and I may look into that. Is there a common preference of stacked fiber cubes over bags? I'd love to have one target for field point and broad head (although we're not shooting BH yet).
Our DIY target is rolled up carpet, which looses its "tightness" pretty quick, and its an old shag carpet, so there's little yarn bits all over the garage. If buying one is a good thought, we may just do it.
If you are a do-it-yourself type, you can make a pretty decent target with burlap and old blankets, sheets or even old plastic sheeting.
Using heavy nylon cord, dental floss, or other heavy "thread", sew a burlap bag and stuff it with old blankets, sheets, or plastic until it is stuffed full.
Sew or glue it shut, and draw bullseyes with a marker. You can install grommets in a few corners to hang it out back, in your garage, or in your basement.
You can sew ball targets that you can throw around a field (or yard) to shoot at. Your imagination is the limit for target shapes and sizes.
Yep..1916 should work fine.
Damage arrow may not be a bad thing.
It means you are getting better and tighter group. I do 4 arrows at a time when I practice in the backyard...
I shoot 40# and 45 # longbows @27". My arrows include 1816s, 1916s, and 2016s. They all shoot good with the right length and head weight. My lengths run 27" to 29" and points run 110 to 250 gr to get the right spine. I can even shoot 2315s if I leave them 32" and put a heavy enough point on. I like to have my arrows as close to my draw length as possible, but really it's all about tuning the arrows you have to the bow you have. If your shooting up your arrows you're on the right track.
Don't use the Easton chart. It's way off for traditional bows! You have some good advice from the guy's above.
You need a better target.
and like everyone else has said those are to stiff. a 2016 with 145 grain tip cut 29 will put you at around 490-500 grains.
you will see that the heavy arrow will quite your bow and just feel better in the hand.
good luck.
1916s & invest in a good target . I think your problem is the rolled up carpet .
I agree although not what you asked. You are way too stiff. 2117's are to stiff for my 50+ lb bows with 200 grains up front. But that isn't why your arrows are sagging in your target. That's the targets issues. You will break arrow if you shoot them in two no matter what shafts you use. Get a new target. Here is mine that I've shared many, many times. It's had no telling how many thousands of arrow in it and they still stick in it perfectly straight every time. You could make one with not much effort.
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/kyTJ/Target/PC240441.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa121/kyTJ/Target/PC240442.jpg)
as others have said a 1916 should work fine.
Cheap target :
fill a cardboard box with rags (remove buttons, zipper)
tae shut and cut target hole in side. Cover hold with two pieces of cardboard , mark target spot or use face over the two pieces of card.
shoot the crap out of it, remove shot up pieces, fluff up rags and cover with target face.
It depends on how long your arrows are cut and what weight points you are using. No way to tell if the 2117's are correct or not without that information.
I agree with getting a better target. Check out the larger bag targets for your field points or make your own like has been described. Even three bales of straw or hay can make an adequate backyard target, just cover it with plastic or an old Queen size air mattress (when not shooting) to keep the bales from soaking up moisture and deteriorating. Don't trow away the carpet and hang it behind your bag target in your garage, to slow errant arrows that miss the bag target. You can get a foam target later for broadheads and set it up in front of your bales for a better backstop. Some good advise given already for shaft selection from guys who have similar setups. I wouldn't shoot more than 3-4 arrows at a time. Best of luck to you and your son.
I believe Rob Distefano posted an early version of eastons spine chart for aluminum arrows that was correct. The new one is pretty faroff IMHO.
2X,,,,KONGO....GOOD LUCK
Get a target that has spots to shoot at and don't shoot more than 2 arrows at one spot. When your groups start to tighten up you may need to only shoot 1 arrow at a spot or you'll be bustin nocks and slapping arrows together. Some guys think busted nocks and robin hoods are cool, which they are until they start costing you money. Then it's a pain when I ruin an arrow cause it just cost me about $8 bucks for a finished arrow.
1916, 1918, or 2016 would all work for hunting and field arrows. 2117 is way to stiff, they would be more for a 55 to 60 pound bow at 29" draw. This info from a 1971 Easton spine chart.
tune tour arrows to the bow .use bare shaft method . When you get a straight flight with a bare shaft with it will fly like a dart with feathers.