I was just wondering if anyone has used one of these to cut off carbon or aluminum arrows.
Works great for me.
They work fine, I''ve used mine for a few years and just moved to a proper arrow cutter, but it did the job fine
I also use one. Does a decent job for me.
Keith
Works like a charm,
Cool thanks. I plan on getting one they are on sale for only $25 can't beat that for a cut-off saw.
I use one too for alum shafts. Do your self a favor and order replacement blades at the same time.
I like mine!
Glenn
I have one and it works great.I mounted mine on a board and made an adjustable stop for repeatable cuts.On the stop I drilled a taper in it,to keep the nock end centered and to be able to rotate the shaft as I cut.This will give you a square cut,by bringing the saw blade just into the shaft and then rotate it as you cut.This is how the more expensive arrow saws cut.They just have a portion of the blade exposed,you bring the arrow into it and rotate.
It is OK. Barely cuts hardwood and is a bit slow to load and awkward to use. I prefer a regular chop saw-cut 10-12 shafts at a time and easy fast loading.
I have one mounted as mentioned above with a ruler, a end stop with a hole for the nocks, etc... It works fine. I make slow cuts, and don't use it for woods. It tends to burn thru them more than cut thru wood.
You can get a different blade for wood.
I also got a pack of 3' metal cutoff blades for mine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-5-3-inch-metal-cutting-discs-66393.html
I ground them down to 2" to use with this saw. Worked great on the 24 carbon arrows that I have cut so far.
Works great for me. If I had a shop where I did alot of arrows then it would be kinda slow. But only doing a dozen here and there it is perfect.
A buddy of mine uses one ans swears by it.
Thanks for the "heads up" I'm going down tomorrow and pick one up..have been meaning to do so for some time now.
Two questions Please for those of you familiar with this saw: :thumbsup:
Gene
Mine works very well!
That's what I am using too, on carbon and aluminun. Have used the blade that came with it w/o problems. I have used sandpaper rolled into a cone (like writing end of pencil) and knocked down any burrs. Piece-o-cake !
I, have had good luck wtih the blades that come with it, mostly use mine for just tuning if I need alot of shafts cut i go to the archery shop not far from me...DB
For the price, cant beat it.
Great price, but under powered.
Gene,
Get the carbide blades, do not use the metal blade on carbons. It tears the ends up.
Thats alot cheaper than a arrow cutter. I'll have to pick one up.
This one I assume you guys are referring to?
http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html
I dont use the steel bit that comes with it. I bought the black cut-off blades.
I use mine on wood shafts, works really good. I built a jig and mounted the saw to it. It has length measurements marked and keeps the shafts level, makes great cuts with the wood cutting blade.
Derek
QuoteOriginally posted by Ragnarok Forge:
Gene,
Get the carbide blades, do not use the metal blade on carbons. It tears the ends up.
Best advice so far!
QuoteOriginally posted by NYArrow:
This one I assume you guys are referring to?
http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html
I would like to know the answer to this one also. IF it truly is underpowered then would this one not work slightly better? http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cut-off-saw-41453.html
Or wouldn't it work? A little higher RPM's and pulls more amps. Shouldn't bog down as easy. Anyone????????
And it's only $5 more right now.
You are only cutting arrows not steel pipe!! The mini saw works just fine for this.
Works great! Had one for years!
I think the larger cut off saw would be overkill. The mini saw works great. I just take my cuts at a steady slow speed and get very clean precise cuts.
Works great. When I cut carbons, I wrap masking tape around the shaft, it stops the splintering. I also found, you need to go slow and let the blade do the work. Great little saw.
OK...taking y'all's word for it. Mine should be here in 3-5 days. I don't like using my Dremel for cutting carbons! :cool:
They work great if you spin the shaft while cutting
I have one mounted on an adjustable board also. I find the same draw back as some of you in that it just does not have the torque that the high dollar cut offs have, so you just have the cut slowly.
Haven't been able to find a wood blade for this saw. Anyone??
LongbowGuy83
Go back to page 2 NyArrow add for wood blades.
Works great for me on aluminum and carbon. Bought mine new off the auction site.
Works great, just get get the metal and carbon blades, and go slow.
Like the others said...works great! Mount it to a piece of plywood and add some stop blocks. I use the abrasive blades on carbon and just sand off any burrs.
Where you guys finding these other blades at? All I see are these after searching & searching.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-2-inch-cut-off-wheels-42805.html
Mine works great, been using it for about 5 years. Picked up blades from the flea market, really cheap.
Darren
I have always heard good reports on these.
I also heard to just use the more common 3" wheels. You can't use the guard with the bigger cutting wheel but you should be wearing safety glasses anyway.
Lots of options on 3" wheels.
QuoteThey work great if you spin the shaft while cutting
I have only cut about 6 carbons on mine with great results. I use the blade it came with and slowly spin the shaft "into the blade" as I cut them. It has plenty of power, cause I'm not using it like a chop saw. I don't get splinters and have cut 2 different brand name carbons. I clamped mine to the bench and use its vice/clamp as one of my V blocks. I open the clamp so the shaft rides on top of it, not down in it (if you can picture that). At the other end I have a 2x4 with a field point stuck in it(threaded into a hole in board) and I set my shaft length and clamp that 2x4 down. I remove the nock and the shaft fits/spins perfectly on that field point. Sure its a crude set up, haven't had time to make a jig to hold everything and get it precise. Id rather be shooting, then building a chop saw. :)
Just like Frankwright said....Off with the saftey guard and on with a 3" abrasive wheel. More options in the 3" variety. They work fine for small arrow projects to tune a few arrows. Gives you the option of running in from the backyard and whacking off a 1/4" and going right back out and trying them out. I chop them and have never had any splintering. Find what length you need and take a full dozen to someone that has a arrow saw if you wish...
Mark
Can't be beat for the money. You will need an exstra pack of blades---especially if you are cutting carbon shafts.
DB
Check this coonass engineering. Jason put this on the Bayou State Bowhunters forum some time back. I liked it so well I built a modified version. Jason can build some stuff guys.
http://bayoubowhunter.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=homemade&action=display&thread=239
Same saw you have been referecing.