who has shot both and which do you like more???
i have GT trad right now and they are ok but my inserts dont want to stay in while stumping.
since im going to order more arrows soon i have been looking into the heritage safts.
are the CX ones tuff??? inserts stay in?
thanks
I like GT's. I use Gorilla glue for the inserts.
What ever your useing to glue your inserts in the GT isn't going to work any better in the Carbon Express. It's not the arrows.
carbon express
Carbon Express
I have shot both and the CEs hold up much better for me!! They seem to spine more consistent as well! Shawn
CX Heritage, without a Doubt ...
CX.
CX hold up much better for me as well.
Try Goat Tuff glue on the inserts. :thumbsup:
the fit for inserts and nocks are much better with carbon express, I like to use hot melt and can not use it with the gold-tips account the inconsistency in the inside diameter, the carbon express heritage shafts are going to weigh in a bit heavier than the gold-tip traditionals, maybe 25 to 35 grains more. The gold tip traditional's are a very good arrow though but the carbon express seems to be just a bit better,
I like the GTT color better than the CEH. That said I shoot them both from all my bows, and I shoot Easton Trad Onlys too. Never had a problem with inserts and I use hot melt in the fat stick from 3R. I also use brass inserts and my arrows are always high FOC. I don't rough up the inside or the arrow nor do I clean them.
So far the GTT arrows are killing more hogs for me.
That would be one arrow and one hog. I had some nice misses too with the CEHs on two bucks.
i roughed the inside a little and tried hot melt. didnt work well
then i tried JB weld like some mentioned but still isnt holding well. but is working better then the hotmelt. maybe it just thee cold thats screwing things up? o well
thanks for the responses. i might try the CX arrows out this time around.
Are you cleaning the inside of the shaft and the outside of the insert with rubbing alcohol?
cleaning traditional only, GTT and CX with acetone first , never had a Problem ... i use all of them with a 2" long 22/16 external footing
CX Heritage is the best shaft I've used.
Gt 5575's have been my choice in carbons. :wavey:
CE without a doubt.
Have tried both and only use the CE now.
I do like the CE shafts better as well. I have not however had a problem with inserts on either shaft.
I do clean them up with alcohol and use hot melt, the inserts stay put.
The GT really has a slick inside finish. I take a rat tail file to them and then clean with acetone. I use hot melt and don't have a problem unless I stick then into something like plywood. Then the little shoulder on my brass inserts can get stuck so hard I pull the insert out trying to free the arrow.
Between the two I like the CE better. It is a more consistent shaft and the toughest I have tried. If I had to pay full price for both I would go with the CE, but I get the GT blems and those are hard to beat for the price.
The CE gets me the weight I want and has a bit more spine in the 250 vs. the GT 5575. With my bow weights and draw length I have a hard time getting the arrow weight up to where I want it with the GT5575.
QuoteOriginally posted by Apex Predator:
CX Heritage is the best shaft I've used.
Yep, or the discontinued black CE terminator select.
I shoot CX 150s very good range on setting up my bows.
I have shot both a lot and have inserts pull out of both equally. If you stick a arrow in a deer targets leg which is plastic the there's a good chance the insert will pull out no matter what you use. Ive scuffed, cleaned, prepared most every way I can think of, used two part epoxy, hot melts, JB weld and nothing will hold the inserts in when I stick the arrow into solid objects, like plastic or wood. So with that said don't shoot the arrow into real hard material and a good prepared arrow/insert will hold up. As far as what I like better, the Heritage arrows are tougher but the Gold tips tune easier for (me). Others may have had different experiences but for me I use gold tip and I foot the ends with aluminum arrow shafts and that's what I do.
Terry
I lke CX Heritage,the key for installing inserts in any carbon is to properly prep the inside and insert.I haven't had any problems with nserts coming out with proper prep and two part 24 hr epoxy.And I can get them back out if I need to.
I use fine sandpaper then wipe with alcohol and weight inserts.Makes a larger glueing surface and works like footing from the inside of shaft.Flechtite heat glue.GT blems
I shot both for a long time. CX all the way. They are much tougher with tighter tolerances than the GTs.
QuoteOriginally posted by slivrslingr:
Are you cleaning the inside of the shaft and the outside of the insert with rubbing alcohol?
yes
i was going to order more blems from big jim but he is out of stock. so its ethier the non blems which are $65 or cx which are $70. what cx matched the gt 1535 (600 spine)? the 90 or 150?
I believe you would want the CX 90s if you like 15/35s in the GT.
You may be able to shoot the 150s with a 50 or 100 grain brass insert and more point weight and cut a little longer possibly.
i like the brass insetrs and use both the 50 gr and 100 grain.Depending on what I am trying to with the arrow to get it to work with my bow.I shoot both 150s and 250 CX Heritage.I use more point weight on the 250s and less on the 150s.I cut the 150s slightly shorter than the 250s.I can get both to fly well out of bows from 47 to 55 pounds at 30 inches draw.I prefer the 250 though overall.Especially for a heavier huning arrow.
What poundage do you shoot and whats your draw length?
CX are great shafts. GT aren't bad either, but I give edge to CX. I've got lots of experience shooting both, just my opinion.
I shoot both GTs and CXs. I think the CXs are a little tougher, but the GTs spine works better for my setup without getting the arrows excessively heavy. I mostly use the GT 5575 blems with a 100 gr brass insert and a 2216 alum sleeve glued in with JBWeld. I used to have trouble with inserts coming out even with shaft preparation, but I have not had any problem since sleeving with the 2216. I mount the sleeve down flush with the end of the insert and that gives extra strength for shots in wood etc. plus it covers up the shoulder that catches and pulls out.
I use the GTs,when I shoot carbons.I have not used the CXs or any other carbons.I have shot GTs for so long and I know just how to tune them.I use the wire bore cleaning tip and alcohol on the shafts,then I steelwool the brass inserts and clean with alcohol.I use eastons hotmelt for carbons with no problems.My problem is I drive the brass inserts back into the shaft when I hit something really hard.
the ce 75 is what matches the gold tip 1535 .600 spine
the ce 90 is .530
and the ce 150 is .487
I think CX are tougher.
Im just about to make some arrows for my 55# Dorado I just bought, and Im gonna get either the GT Traddional's or the CX Heritages.... Im pulling 27" to my anchor. At that 27" Im pulling 51# on my digital scale.....what do you guys think.....would the CX150 be the right spine? Im thinking of 125-145 tip wt ? Thanks.
QuoteOriginally posted by Onlyaspike:
Im just about to make some arrows for my 55# Dorado I just bought, and Im gonna get either the GT Traddional's or the CX Heritages.... Im pulling 27" to my anchor. At that 27" Im pulling 51# on my digital scale.....what do you guys think.....would the CX150 be the right spine? Im thinking of 125-145 tip wt ? Thanks.
play around with the stu miller spine chart. it will get you pretty close
My name is Preston and I am a regional sales manager at Gold Tip. I would obviously recommend Gold Tip arrows over CX, but I guess that goes without saying. We feel our manufacturing processes are superior to others because of our 100% carbon construction. This means that we don't add other materials to our arrows, and the end result is better performance in all aspects. You can find out more about that on our website at www.goldtip.com. (http://www.goldtip.com.)
What I really wanted to comment about is the insert issue. If you are pulling inserts from Gold Tip arrows (or any other for that matter), it is likely the adhesive or process more than the arrow or components. We find that epoxy and hot melt type glues do not retain inserts effectively. We find fast set type super glues to be the very best, with the top choice being our own Gold Tip Tip Grip adhesive. We have specifically designed our inserts to perform optimally with this type of adhesive. You will notice that our components have deep grooves and flats. These are intentional and aren't just for looks. These grooves give the adhesive a "handle" if you will for the glue to hold onto. The adhesive adheres well to the carbon shaft, but not to the aluminum inserts. But, with the deep grooves the adhesive has something to grab on to, and grab it does. Since switching to this insert we have had almost zero problems with insert retention. That said, you need to use ample amounts of glue, the right type of glue, and you need to give it time to cure. Even though is says "fast set", the full cure time is 24 hours.
Lastly, DO NOT use cleaners like acetone, alcohol, etc. These cleaners soak into the pores of the carbon and remain for some time, negating the ahesion of the glue when applied. Simply tap out the dust and apply your insert!
If you have any more questions, just let me know.
CX Heritage for me as well, I shoot both... The Gold Tips are lighter but I think the Carbon Express are a better shaft.
I like the Carbon express and the 90's shoot lights out of my 50# bows.
Preston,
is the glue reversible/ Meaning if i want to change inserts in case of using brass etc... can it be changed or is it permanent? I like the ability to heat up the hot melt and change the wt on the front if needed.
Thanks for the advice, Preston. I just bought 2 more dozens of the GT Velocity Hunters, and will try the Tip Grip when the UPS guy delivers it tomorrow.
Huntingarcher, the problem of mushrooming shafts when the inserts get shoved back into them has disappeared for me, now that I only stump shoot or squirrel hunt with shafts footed with aluminum arrow shaft sections. An inch is enough, the only trick is finding the shafting that fits over your carbons.
That being said, the problem now is nocks popping out, and inserts coming out. Hopefully the Tip Grip will solve the insert thing, and I will start improvising with the nocks. I use the standard GT nocks, or sometimes I use the nock adapters and Mercury glue-ons.
I switched from CEs because I got a mismarked batch, and I also found that I couldn't use the same nocks and inserts on the 90s as I could on the 150s. I really like that the inside diameters of all the GT spines are the same, so I have the same options regarding brass inserts and nock adapters throughout the range of spines.
Killdeer
I'd like to know how the Tip Grip works-- looks like just another bottle of super glue--the stuff called insert iron works pretty well but it takes 24 hours to set up and dries out in the bottle despite all measures to prevent it. :banghead:
I have some Big Jim GT blems that are over 2 yrs old and still have 11 left. I use JB Weld 2 part for the inserts...PR
I've shot both and I would have to say I like the CX heritage better, really strong shaft!...DB
Don't know if I can agrre about not using acetone from a chemical point of view. Alcohol, the rubbing type has an oil content.. Denatured alcohol has much less oil.. Acetone has no oil and if there is a residue it is so minor it should not even be mentioned. It is by far the best prep out there in my book... I have been using it on alu and now carbons for a looooong time.
All that being said... I only use hot melt on my shafts. With my prep they seem to stay in fine. I am actually going to try some of the S glue stuff on a new set of shafts very soon. I tried GT's a few years ago and they did not do what I was looking for and I feel I gave them a fair shake. The PSE X-Weave and now the CX have been my non tapered shaft choices.
For my Gold Tip arrows I use the glue from Pine Ridge Archery, it is an instant glue and the inserts do not come out with this glue. I like heat reversable glue but I am not sure about the stuff from pine ridge,
im going to give the cx a try this time around. worth a shot and i can get the wieght i want without wieght tubes
Carbon Express is all I use. They have just worked so well for me. I have 150's, 250's and 350's that I use depending on the set up. Most of my stuff is tuned for 250's though. The 350's are really "big game only" arrows when I'm shooting over 70 lbs at something that really needs some thump..see avitar.