Guys and Gals,
I have some BH's that I'm having trouble getting to spin true on an adapter. its a 125 3 blade, and I have 75gr steel, and some 35-40gr Aluminum adapters.
Are there any tricks to getting these thing to line up? I've been using hot melt, and have considered epoxy, but do not want to make the crooked permanent.
Thanks in advance.
Brian
Most broadheads will cover the entire taper of the adapter. If there is exposed adapter make sure they are pushed all the way on. Use a block of wood and firm pressure and twist them until they are lined up like you want and to spread the glue.
Sometimes if you are having alignment problems it is too much glue, try using less and see if that helps.
Also check your inserts by spinning a field point. I have bought arrows made up with the wrong size insert and they were cocked a tad. Just enough to make my broadheads wobble.
Brian,you can get them to spin true with either type glue.Usually the culprit is the broadhead's ferrule.They aren't all perfect.
I have a lot better luck and get a more accurate job,using a spinning jig versus just spinning.
This one I made is kind of fancy but you can do the same thing,all out of wood,making two "V" blocks instead of the rollers.
I first establish a reference dot by putting a field point in the arrow that I know is straight and true.The arrow is in the jig and I use that point to poke a mark for my reference dot.I use my pen to make that dot easier to see.
When the broadhead is on the arrow,I put it in the jig with the blade horizontal.I look down on it and tweak if I need to to get it right on the dot.Then,I turn it 90 degrees so the blade is vertical and get it on the dot gain.If it meets the dot from these two positions,it is perfect.
Carefully set it where nothing can touch the head till the glue cools or cures.
The jig is also great to check heads that have been shot,to make sure they are still true.The jig takes a lot of the guess work and fumbling out of the process for me.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/SpinTester.jpg)
I oughtta build one of those...
Seems like you do need to mess with any adapter some. Its not just glue it and push it in if I'm getting the jist of it?
I know I do have a couple straight ones that I really had to put some pressure on. It was a little scary trying to do with a BH wrench :eek:
Next time I try this I'll be usign a block of wood to push them into, and some epoxy, so there is some working time to line things up.
Its good to have a good plan...
Thanks for the advice,
Brian
You do have to tweak them some.All broadhead ferrules aren't as accurate a 5 degree taper as they should be.The old Grizzlys were terrible.The new ones are pretty darn good.The most accurate I have seen in recent years is the STOS.I mounted 4 and they were all perfect with no help from me.
Make a simple jig.It takes all the guess work out of it.Not a bad idea to re-check them after a miss or a hit on game.
I second HVYHITTERs advise . Put a field point in the adapter put it on the arrow & spin and adjust until wobble is eliminated . Then glue on the adapter again spinning & adjusting . Use a glue that will give you time to make the final adjustments .
NICE SETUP THANKS FOR SHARING...
When using hot melt cement make sure that your components are warm enough.
It's a balancing act sometimes but the ferrule of the broadhead needs to be very hot while the blades remain cool.... not a problem with field points.
As Braveheart mentioned, most guys use too much glue. It sure doesn't take much and if it's running all over everything when you're putting on points, you are using way too much.
A little squeeze out is a good thing and you should see it squeeze out evenly around the ferrule.
Here's how it works... put dab of cement on taper of arrow. Heat ferrule of point (a small torch is helpful to direct the heat into the ferrule and keeping the heat off the blades).
Slide ferrule over taper and immediately twist the head several revolutions to spread the glue evenly and uniformly...glue should liquefy instantly or the ferrule is not hot enough.
Press head against something hard like a vise, concrete, etc. (if you push against wood the point can stick a little which loosens the bond when you pull the point away).
I like to do a "hard" quench. Usually spraying cold water on the steel while maintaining pressure to cool it quickly.
I seldom have to mess with a point to get it straight.
I agree with Charlie. I have a handy knot in my bench which works great for pressure with no stick. A quick spin test and sometimes have to tweak a little. Dunk in water.