I have a 200gr field point and just the insert up front. Nock is 3" high and 3" left at 10 yards out of my 56lb BW MAII. Shooting fingers 3 under.
Sounds like way too stiff of a shaft to me. My 55lb. Brackenbury likes 3555s better than 5575s. Maybe you have a much longer draw length than me though...
3555s are like noodles out of this bow. I have one 5575 with a 145gr point no weights that shoots pretty good. I thought that I'd try some shafts at the othe end of the spectrum.
These are full length by the way.
Is that Bear Shat or Bare Shaft? :D
LOL! Now thats funny! Strange how your mind sees one thing and your fingers type another. "Shaft".
Go to www.bowmaker.net (http://www.bowmaker.net) click on "Tuning". First you should compare a fletched shaft to a bare. In your case you will see the bare shoots right of the fletched. Showing too weak.
But the first thing you should do is adjust your nocking pt. It's showing too high right now. THAT DOESN'T MEAN IT'S TOO HIGH. A nock too low will hit the bow shelf and kick up - showing too high.
Bowmania
Yes the bare shafts hit to the right of the fletched shaft.
A viable option would be to try a 300 gn point before trying inserts.
A 300 gn pt should have you about 10.4 gpp.
Easy for me to say since I prefer 300 gn points in conjuntion with 100 gn inserts.
Jim: PM me an email and I will send you a work up with those shafts. Tell me what your draw length is in the PM.
I don't think you said if you are a right hand shooter but if you are Bowmania is correct,they are weak.
Going to a heavier head is exactly what you don't want to do.You need to trim shaft length if you can or reduce point weight.BW's like a stiff arrow.I would start with a 175 gr head if you don't cut the shaft.Work down in weight if you need to.I kind of like to verify with point weight before cutting anyway.
I also agree with reading the bowmaker tuning information.It is well written and invaluable.
I'm right handed. I added the wraps I'm using to bare shaft and compared it to the fletched shaft. About 3" right of the fletched shaft but the the nock high seems to be reduced.
I plan on using the 175 gr. VPA or 160gr. snuffers.
Like JimB said, you will have to shorten the shafts, try 175 grain head first, since that is what the Bh weight you re trying to tune too.
Source for 175 grain field points?
If you need screw on 175's,most of the sponsors that sell points should have them.If you use glue ons,on wood arrows,you should be able to pack 15 grs of lead shot into a 160 gr head.#6 shot weighs about 2 grs per pellet.You can tamp it in with a 1/8" steel punch or melt it in.You may have to trin a slight amount off your shaft's taper but it should work.
These are screw ins for GT 7595s.
Big Jim has GT blemished shafts too by the way incase anyone is interested.
I have a Black Widow MAIII 56#@28 and a PLII 55#@28 and draw 27". A GoldTip 5575 cut to 29.75 with a 50g brass insert flys great with both 145 and 125 FP's. 150g-160g broadheads also work great with this set-up.
Thank you.
Using the spine calculator from Stu Miller archery, I came up with a 30" shaft, 175 grain point, no weight behind the insert. That gave me 79.4 dynamic spine for arrow input and 80.7 for bow input. Chart said those two numbers sould be w/in 2lbs of each other.
Says shaft will weigh 590grs. That's 10.5 gr per lb. FPS will be aprox 178.9. I can live with that. I guess I'll trim a bare shaft to 30.5 and shoot it next to a fletched shaft and go from there. If its flying ok I'll take it down to 30.0.
I can't believe that you are going to be able to get that shaft to shoot out of your bow. You must be hitting the riser and kicking out to the left. I shoot that same shaft out of my 85# bow with 400 g up front. If it was my set up, I would take that 5575 and put 300 total up front and cut shaft until it shot good.
Bigjim
Some how it works. I have some 5575s that have 300gr up front that I shot and trimed up. They still flop around. A full length 7595 bare shaft with a 145 gr field tip and a full length fletched shaft hit about 3" apart. The bare shaft being to the right. With a 200 gr point the bare shaft was about 6-8 inches right.
Shot a few arrows and shafts this evening. They are still full length. With a 145gr field point they are with hitting the same point of impact now. it seems like the bare shaft flys better than the fletched shaft. Weird.
If the bare shaft is flying better than the fletched, my guess is that you need to raise the nocking pt. about an 1/8" to let the fletching to clear the shelf.
I will try that. The bare shaft is showing impacting a little nock high though.