Is eight yards enough distance to give accurate results with bare shaft tuning? I know if the shafts are way off it is, but what if they are close? Been a while since I have done it with a stick bow, and I can only get eight yards in the house. Too darn cold to play outside this weekend.
That is a start, but I like to get back to at least 20 if not farther.
Probably only to satisfy me... I bare shaft tune ~5 yards further than my effective hunting range.
When switching to BH's, I am then seldom disappointed.
Note: Bare shafting distances are basically limited by your own abilty to consistantly execute the shot.
Most things don't start to show up till you are 20-25 yds from the target. If you are short of space paper tuning may work better for you.
If you don't have the space you can and should PAPER TEST at 6 foot or so. Works just as well in my opinion. I don't want to start a debate though.
It is a viable option if you don't have space though.
I agree on the farther back the better. I've gone as far back as forty yards shooting wheelie bows...talk about showing every little form flaw.
Twenty to twenty five has worked pretty good with traditional bows for me, I'm not good enough with them to go back any farther. I just thought I would see if I was wasting my time at the eight yards I can get indoors.
I'll drag out the frame Bjorn and try shooting through paper, not my favorite way to tune but like you said, it might be the best I can do for now. Until spring gets here, if it ever does.
I think bare shaft tuning is best done at 20 yards, or longer. Remember, with bare shaft tuning you are trying to compare point of impact with fletched arrows and make adjustments accordingly. Paper tuning with traditional bows can be done, but I think is better suited for compounds and release shooters. With traditional equipment there is a lot more pronounced movement going on than one will see with a compound and release. For example, some traditional bows are not cut to center meaning arrows shot from such a bow with have a good deal more paradox, hence a lot of lateral movement in the first few yards. Paper tuning such a set up might have you making all kinds of adjustments even though point of impact at 20 yards is perfect.
I think 8 yards isn't enough also as a starting point,you can see something around 15 but at 20 you can have already a good idea.I am actually at 30m(34Yards) and it changed a lot on my tuning,what looked to be good at 20 is not perfect yet at 30.
I usually start at 20 yards, then 25, and finish up at 30. If I think the shaft is going to be real weak, I take a couple of shots at 15 yards before backing up to 20.
I agree 20 yards atleast
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Most things don't start to show up till you are 20-25 yds from the target. If you are short of space paper tuning may work better for you.
Exactly !!
QuoteOriginally posted by george vernon:
I think bare shaft tuning is best done at 20 yards, or longer. Remember, with bare shaft tuning you are trying to compare point of impact with fletched arrows and make adjustments accordingly. Paper tuning with traditional bows can be done, but I think is better suited for compounds and release shooters. With traditional equipment there is a lot more pronounced movement going on than one will see with a compound and release. For example, some traditional bows are not cut to center meaning arrows shot from such a bow with have a good deal more paradox, hence a lot of lateral movement in the first few yards. Paper tuning such a set up might have you making all kinds of adjustments even though point of impact at 20 yards is perfect.
He's right on the money! :readit: :thumbsup:
Thanks for the thoughts everyone, pretty much what I was thinking. I honestly don't really like paper tuning even with compounds. I've always gotten a much better tune shooting bare shafts or broadhead tuning. For me paper works to get close, or sometimes figure out a quirk, not so good for fine tuning.