On an ILF bow, is the tiller adustment made on the limb or on the riser? I was planning to get sets of limbs for 55#, 65#, 75#, and 85# and be able to swap them out whenever I wanted. The problem is, if the adjustment is on the riser bolt, then I don't see how I can interchange the limbs without making adjustments every time. Am I missing something?
The tiller adjustment is made with the limb bolt,it is not tightened all the way down clamping the limb to the riser.Haven't seen many ILF limbs in the 75# and 85# range,limbs that strong you may want to consider a T/D bow where the limbs bolt down solid.
That is what I was afraid of. So by switching out limbs, it may not be tiller correctly. As for heavy limbs, I talked to a couple bowyers that would build heavy. I guess the ILF system just lost some of it's appeal to me.
Adjusting the tiller is simple enough.All you need is a bow square and a allen wrench.And good quality limbs should be tillerd to one another pretty close anyway.I dont think i would let something that minor deter me.
Oxnam...
I think you are making a larger deal out of it than it really is. First of all, I have 3 sets of ILF limbs, all different weights (two different brands) and I can snap them in and out without changing tiller at all.
The other two sets, both longbow limbs, I do have to adjust the tiller from where it is with my recurve limbs, but it's a matter of about one revolution of the limb bolt. Even so, it takes less time to adjust tiller than it does to adjust brace height by twisting the sting.
The advantages way outweigh any disadvantage.
Turkeys Fear Me - That is great to know. I had just read some posts over the last several months that made it sound important to adjust the tiller. So I am happy to hear that it is not that sensative.
Oxnam,
As TFM says, tune the limbs to the prefered tiller spot, write it down and if you do change out the limbs and they like a different tiller than the previous, just a bow square and a turn of an allen wrench and you're shooting asap.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ray Lyon:
Oxnam,
As TFM says, tune the limbs to the prefered tiller spot, write it down...
I actually write mine (tiller, nock height, and bh) on a sticker and stick it on the bottom side of the limb butt. That way it's always with with limbs.
Adjust one in and one out and your # should remain the same.
I don't understand.
If you buy a non-ILF bow, you live with a fixed, static tiller measurement that may or may not prove to be optimal. That basically is the same outcome as swapping properly tillered limbs, without adjustment, on an ILF riser. I don't see how you lose with a bow that provides an option you may choose not to use, but don't have at all with other bows!