i am really fascinated with ricks shooting methods- and have the dvd- however i need clarification on the fletching setup-
could someone post some pics of some fletching done his way-
1.arrow nocked on the string, and
2.fletch on the nose at full draw- make em reasonable close ups- i really need to get a handle on this, - maybe some side views and from the nock as well.
i am going to be attending one of his clinics, and i really wanna make the change now, rather than later!!
in advance, much gratitude
yours
wayne
I have never been to Rick's school but I have spoken to him on the phone a number of times about it. Make sure you take some bare shafts with you as he will help set them up just the way you need right there and you'll be shooting them before you leave.
Would love to hear how your trip goes when you get back.
Good luck.
Same here, been thinking on looking into his school myself.
I'm planning on doing his school this spring/summer myself. I bought the Accuracy Factory & have worked on changing. Shooting better & can't wait to have a hands in to really get it down correctly. Hope all goes well with your trip there.
I will try to post some later. Take bare shafts or put it in your mind you're willing to buy some from the shop there.
I walked out with 1/2 doz new GT 3555's that he set up. We played with the fletch while there moving it once or twice to get it in the right spot, and we played with tip wieght as I recall to affect spine.
You need to first consistently anchor, then have someone measure where the tip of your nose is so you know where to put the fletch. He uses shield cut LW (if your are right handed, RW for lefties) and the cock feather is perpendicular to the shelf facing out.
He is a fabulous one on one instructor. Go with an open mind. Although he's going to focus on his method and has boundaries he teaches within he has an open mind when working with you as well.
While not a former student, I am avid follower of his. I took some fletched arrows and gradually trimmed the cock fletch back while at the two soft anchors per Rick's method. There were several different arrow cut backs that were further evaluated in an attempt to nail it down. This process for me took several shooting sessions and was validated by having consistant straight shots. I ended up deciding that 2.0" from the knock throat was optimum. Shot 2.0" fletched arrows for three weeks and after becoming more accustomed to Rick's technique, I found I needed a little more taken off. I have been at 2.1" for quite some time and am quite comfortable.
thanks guys- are ya'll using the martin fletcher, or would the bitz work ok.
dont mind buying the martin if thats what i need, its just that goodies take a little longer to get to us here on this island off the coast of cunuckopia.
and i have a new left bitz.
thanks
wayne
-if your converting to his way of anchoring, then your first knuckle of your thumb has to be anchored at your ear lobe. Then turn your head a bit and touch your nose to your feather (shield feathers). Lock it down. Don't look down the shaft...concentrate on your little spot, hold to get steady, and use a subconscious release (easier said than done). Don't move your string arm elbow at the shot. It take practice, but when you get it, man, does it work.
Actually for me (and several others I have learned) he moved the location from the ear lobe to a slightly different spot. I think it depends on facial structure, where your hand is when you hit the appropriate back tension for anchor, and your natural sight. I think he always has folks start at the ear lobe as it seems to be the most common spot when using his method.
OK, so the cock feather is horizontal to a true vertical plane... with the back touching the tip of your nose... and your anchor is placed by locating the first knuckle of your thumb at your ear lobe... Right???
Better get this right or this big nose of mine might be stung....
Been there, done that.
That's my penalty for improper back tension.
I may be wrong, but have shot with rick a bit and hunted some too. I use the cock feather on my nose , and its at about 10:30 on the clock. Ricks may be closer to 9 but I think when I shot his bow with his arrows, they were perfect for me. DB
Don
He kept saying 9:45 when he was helping me. Maybe thats when breakfast was served.(LOL)
Rick will guide you to better shootin. Take his class. You want regret it.
When you guys say "first knuckle", which one is that? The one next to the nail or the hand?
Nail.
Ricks videos are great, but it is hard to see exactly what he his doing when he anchors. I took lessons from him back in 2006 and still use his style of shooting to this day. For me, I have the fletching placed around 2 inches forward from the very back of the nock. It will not be the same for everyone. The fletching that contacts my nose it at the 9:00 position for me.
When I anchor, I put the lenght of thumb from first and second nuckle on my ear lobe. I'm not using just one knuckle, but rather that lengh of thumb between both nuckles. When the fletching is touching my nose, I am at full draw. Works pretty well for me.
Wayne- I think I can help you with this- spent a couple days with Rick this summer at a course he gave here in Ontario. Great guy! And he helped me considerably.
Rick seeks for three anchor points- the feather on the nose, the first thumb knuckle on the bottom of the earlobe, and your first finger gripped around the string just under your cheek bone. [This assumes 3 under, of course.]
Here's a couple pics showing the three anchors. [Note that I am gripping the string with 4 fingers, only because I do not have my glove on.]
(http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/pp48/Brigus/photo2.jpg)
(http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/pp48/Brigus/photo1.jpg)
One other thing that needs to be considered is that to accomodate the feather on the nose, you will likely need to refletch your feathers further down the shaft in order to properly set this anchor. When I came home from my course, I set about stripping the fletching from all of my arrows, in order to refletch them in the new position. Here's a shot of one of them.
(http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/pp48/Brigus/photo3.jpg)
I naturally achored in what some would call this 'high' position, and shot 3 under- so this came easily to me. If you are shooting split, and lower- then it will be more of and adjustment. But this position feels very comfortable, allows one to better feel the back muscles, and also [generally] allows for a slightly longer draw. So you might even have to change the length of your arrow to properly set up for his approach.
The other main point that he makes is to 'trust your bow arm'. Again, this took some effort to put my 'trust' in where I was concentrating, and to not 'aim'- but it sure worked. My accuracy definitely improved.
thanks all for all the feedback.
thanks fox for the pics- exactly what i needed. the changeover has been a considerable thing for me.
1.i have changed from split to 3 under
2. had to get longer shafts to allow for my new drawlength- it increased by an inch and a half
3.got a new fletcher and feathers.
4. and the easiest and most fun part- tons and tons of practice already- but will start refletching today.
thanks once again to all
best
wayne
Ceme24
Do u know why they use left wing on right hand shooters and vise versa?
Tommy
Ya..whats up with the Fletching?
Foxtail's photos are excellent to show why you'd want LW on a right handed shooter. The tip of a LW fletch will angle up toward your nose allowing you to hit the tip of the nose easier.
On a RH shooter a RW fletch will angle down away from your nose making it more difficult to hit the tip of your nose which could cause you to dropping your head too much in toward the arrow.
Foxtail also brings up a critical point - trust your bow arm. If I had a nickel for every time Rick told me that I may have gotten my course for free!
Will a 5" shield cut be a good choice of feather?
BBinAlamo-
1. If shooting a short Brace Ht. then the fletch may be contacting the riser with the arrow nocked.
2. Possibly if shooting normal FOC and a wide BH the abililty to correct flight is diminished and possibly visible due to moving the fletch further from the knock. Personally, I have not experienced this issue since my set-ups are geared for maximum FOC. I have yet to hear of anyone having issues with the 4".
Friend, I shoot 200+ up front and usually woodsman elites for bhs. Do you think 4" feather is enough? DB
I shoot a 530gr arrow "Beman bone collector" w. 100 grain insert and 145grain tip, 245 up front with 4 inch shield back -Its plenty of fletch just make sure your bareshaft group well with your fletched or just right of your fletched -fletching will stiffen up your arrow.
Thanks ceme24 that was my guess just wasnt sure about the LW fletching on right hand shooter.
so much info there.
thanks
much appreciated
BBinAlamo-
Take note that what works for one may not for another. There are many variables. If your bare shafts, fletched shafts and fletched shafts with BH's are on mark, you should be in great shape.
very true friend. also i noticed when you r close to perfect on your tuning you can try to turn down your helical a bit. Too much helical will slow down an arrow, with a good tuned arrow you whont need hardly any helical at all.
Tommy
I Just saw the video-I went ahead and tried Welch's style and must admit it works well.
He keeps stressing HOLD, HOLD and then the release will be automatic.That's fine for a Deer or bear posing to be shot. What do you do with speed shots tha thappen all to often??
Other than that ,I shoot a bow with 46# @ my draw
and can hold easily for a really long time without
any automatic release.Am I to assume that the poundage has to be high enough that one can't hold at draw for more than 2 sconds or so in order to have the string automatically rip loose?
Lucky Strike said...
"Am I to assume that the poundage has to be high enough that one can't hold at draw for more than 2 sconds or so in order to have the string automatically rip loose?"
No, it has nothing to do with draw wt, but is part of the "trust your bow arm" thing as it becomes INSTINCTIVE or an "unconscious release" when your brain tells your hand to release the string because the bow arm is pointed at the target. The release just "happens" unconsciously, kind of like "being in the zone" and unlike consciously pulling a trigger to shoot.
I also ordered the video....Im seriosly considering a couple days at his school this summer.
I took Ricks class last November. I think what he is trying to do when he shoots on the video is to show you exactly what to do to get accustomed to shooting this way. He also has his students do this to ingrain it into their routine. When you see him shoot in person, he does not hold like that. As he told me he has been doing it for a long time. He throws up and shoots pretty fast and hits exactly where he is looking and I mean some long shots to. I could not believe my eyes. If you get a chance, it may be well worth the money to go to his school. You will be surprised at what you will come away with.
It is really interesting. I took his class 2 years ago and it is my standard method of shooting now (I went as a split finger shooter). He has been doing it a long time. Just the other day I decided to take a look at his first video (only 20 minutes long!) and made in the mid-90's. All the elements are there on the first video except the knuckle to the ear lobe. It is not a great video in the context of the next 2 he has done but with hindsight and the experience of attending his school you can see he figured this out a long time ago. As far as shooting fast, once you get the system down and consistently have good form and the consistent anchor, then shoot as fast as you need to for the hunting situation. Don't see any difference from a split finger approach. The fundamentals are really similar.