Hey guys. Just changed my shooting form and added 3" to my draw length. But now I can't get any arrows to bareshaft well. Hope it's not my release.
I'm shooting an A&H 62" 48# at 28" but I'm drawing 29.5". I'm wanting a finished arrow weight between 600-700 grains and I'd prefer to use my 300 grain tips from my old set up with carbon arrows. Where should I start? Which arrows should I try? Don't have access to the stu miller spine chart right now cause my laptop crashed. Any help is appreciated.
Cedar or Douglas fir. I get around 600 gr with 30-1/2" BOP cedars using 125 gr heads. You'd be 775 gr with those 300 gr mallets. :thumbsup:
You might look into a CX Heritage 250.I shoot those cut to 31 drawn to 30 with 200 up front out of bows the same weight as yours.
Not sure about 300 grains up front on those though.Never tried it.Might work.With 300 grains up front on the 250 you would have about a 675 grain arrow.
Spine deflection on the heriage 250s is 0.373
350s is 0.320
Maybe a CX 350 possibly.Never tested a CX Heritage 350.I have wanted to try them with the extreme forward of center concept though.Never got around to it.
Gold tip 55/75 might be worth a look with 300 gr. up front.
I shot a solid 30" draw with a 31" arrow... Weight on my bows were 45-50lbs.. I had good success with GT 3555 100gr brass inserts, and with a 4-fletch... I used 150-190 tips... :)
With 300 up front you are going to be limited as to what arrow you will be able to shoot. One thing about a long draw is the longer the draw the less options as to arrow setup, sometimes you just have to compromise and use what works best and not what you want to use. good luck
Beman 400 shaft, uncut plus 100 grain brass tip plus 300 grain head plus fletch and knock is about 660 to 700 grains.
Bob.
Oh Yes, 23/64 shurwood shafts 31 inches should get you there easily. I have POC with 145 heads that weigh around 585.
wtpops nailed it. The ACS CX is a spine hog and with 300 up front forget wood, and just get pretty much the stiffest carbon shaft you can find. And just curious.........you say you don't have access to Stu's calc-yet you can post stuff here??
Thanks, guys. I've tried the gt 75/95 and the arrow is smacking the riser and making an awful noise. Might play around with strike plate thickness as well.
Bjorn,
I'm on my iPad and it doesn't like Stu's calculator for some reason. It'll open but can't change the numbers at all.
Thanks, guys. I've tried the gt 75/95 and the arrow is smacking the riser and making an awful noise. Might play around with strike plate thickness as well.
Bjorn,
I'm on my iPad and it doesn't like Stu's calculator for some reason. It'll open but can't change the numbers at all.
My arrows are 31 1/4" long and I usually have 250 grains up front. With any ACS at that length and drawing around 52# I'd need to have (like Bjorn said) the stiffest shaft made. Something with a .250"-.280" deflection. Maybe ACC 3-71's or Gold Tip Big Game 100's.
An obvious alternative is to build out the sight window strike plate.
Thanks, John. I'll look into those.
In my experience with 300 gr out front you might need a 340 or maybe even a 300 left long. I draw to almost 31". My 54# ACS takes a 340 easton axis with 100 gr brass insert and 125-150 gr head. My other ACS is 58# and takes a 300 spine with same insert and head weight. Those poundages are at my draw length, not what the bow is marked at. This is what bareshafts the best for me, hope this helps you some.
Can you go the AD rout? I shoot my CE250's that long with the same draw and bows in the same weight range, but I only have 100+125 up front. I bet a 350 would get in the ball park. I know the Beman 340's I played with stiffened things up a lot. Part due to the stiffer spine, and part I think due to the larger outside diameter.
What is the center cut of the ACS with the strike plate on? I can run some numbers. What insert?
Black Widow SA 62". 53# @ 30. 30.5" draw. 31.25" arrow. GT 5575 trads with 240 up front bare shaft perfect.
Hope that helps-
Dan in KS
3Rivers Arrow Chart (http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf)
Why couldn't you use an ash shaft spined down to .500 for your weight bow, full length shaft, fletched with 125gr. up front weighs in at 712gr.??
I know because I just weighed one. I'd thought about selling these, but hoped someday I'd be able to go hog hunting. They are a full 150gr. more than what I normally shoot.
If you are going to shoot 300 grains up front I suggest the beman's in 340 spine or GT's in 75/95.
I think I would pay close attention to what Mr.Havard has to say about whats best out of the ACS bows for a long draw and that poundage.I know I would.He has a long draw and should know better than anybody what works for his line of bows!
Your mileage may vary.But I would start with his recommendation for the carbon arrow choice and play with point weight if thier is anything that need to be fine tuned.
Thank you gentlemen. I will try your suggestions and report back as soon as the weather clears.
Okay. Had to drop my point weight to 250, but the GT 7595 cut to 30" seem to be working. Still need to bareshaft and shoot some broad heads. Then I'll make my final verdict. Thanks again for the help. You guys are top notch.
QuoteOriginally posted by yth-mnstr:
Hey guys. Just changed my shooting form and added 3" to my draw length. But now I can't get any arrows to bareshaft well. Hope it's not my release.
I'm shooting an A&H 62" 48# at 28" but I'm drawing 29.5". I'm wanting a finished arrow weight between 600-700 grains and I'd prefer to use my 300 grain tips from my old set up with carbon arrows. Where should I start? Which arrows should I try? Don't have access to the stu miller spine chart right now cause my laptop crashed. Any help is appreciated.
Very interested to know what sort of form change would add a full 3 inches to your draw length, that is a lot.
DDave
Dave,
I started out drawing the string to the tip of my nose way back when, then started drawing to the corner of my mouth and gained a full 2" of draw length. Maybe that's what happened?
Just a thought.