Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: dvsbruce on January 29, 2011, 05:06:00 AM
-
I've decided I would like to start building my own cedar arrows and am getting really confused looking through product catalogs. A person could spend a fortune building a dozen arrows!
I'll be setting up in a room in my basement with little ventilation so I will probably start with water based finishes and stains. I really like the looks of the eco-dipper that attaches to top of a can of finish but don't know if I can use it with water based sealers and paints.
I guess my question is; how did some of you start out when you first began building arrows? Did you spend a fortune or is there a "cheap" route?
I do plan to spend some money but would sure like to keep it under $250-$350 to get started with supplies. I've seen the homemade cresting machine but have decided that I will purchase a quality crester to avoid profanities in front of my children. This can come later though.
If it stops snowing today I'll be off to Kalamazoo and the Expo to do some more research. Hopefully there will be a workshop or seminar on arrow building!
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give a newbie!
-
well i got me a jojan fletching jij cheap and 5 years down the track i still got it does the job. now as far as a cresting machine i use a sewing machine motor and two blocks of wood and it works good. the motor cost me $10 then a got to buy glue points shafts nocks or ya can self nock the shafts easy as. so as ya can see it can be cheap as to do or ya can spend heaps it is realy up to you. but be aware once ya start ya cant stop. :biglaugh: :laughing: have fun and good luck.
-
Yes you can do it on the cheap. There are a few things you will need though. As far as stains and sealer go you can use water based and just wipe on with a clean rag (old t shirt). Sand with 000 steel wool between coats. You will need a taper tool. Hand helds work great with cedar. Some type of fletching jig. The more into it you get the more you will want to get. Go to how to section. There is some great info on this subject. Also doing a search will give a whole bunch more. Good luck and have fun. It's addicting!!!
-
Originally posted by dvsbruce:
I've decided I would like to start building my own cedar arrows and am getting really confused looking through product catalogs. A person could spend a fortune building a dozen arrows!
I'll be setting up in a room in my basement with little ventilation so I will probably start with water based finishes and stains. I really like the looks of the eco-dipper that attaches to top of a can of finish but don't know if I can use it with water based sealers and paints.
I guess my question is; how did some of you start out when you first began building arrows? Did you spend a fortune or is there a "cheap" route?
I do plan to spend some money but would sure like to keep it under $250-$350 to get started with supplies. I've seen the homemade cresting machine but have decided that I will purchase a quality crester to avoid profanities in front of my children. This can come later though.
If it stops snowing today I'll be off to Kalamazoo and the Expo to do some more research. Hopefully there will be a workshop or seminar on arrow building!
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give a newbie!
$250-$350??? yikes! that's a lotta loot to make up some good woodies!!! crazy!!! ;)
all ya really need are some good woods (surewood), some feathers (precut or full length and a li'l chopper), a pencil type nock/point tapering tool, some clear finish (min wax wipe on gloss), maybe some wood stain (optional, min wax, or food dye), nocks and points and broadheads (yer choice), a small tube of duco cement, bohning fletch tape (MUST HAVE!), and a cheap polycarb fletcher (plenty around for cheap). for all of this stuff, save for the finish/stain, see our vendors. if ya wanna get fancy, doing cresting with sharpie pens is the way to go.
i used all of the above to make this ( and hundreds more like it) ..,.
(http://www.tradgang.com/rob/grind/f19.jpg)
-
You can definitely go over the top with everything. I go on the cheap with woodies. Rattle can cresting and poly finish. Fletch em up and shoot em till they break or you lose em.
Nobody mentioned tapering tools. I like my tru taper, works for all 3 shaft sizes and has replaceable blades.
You can certainly get fancy though. I don't care what anyone says a carbon or aluminum just doesn't have the elegance of a nicely stained and crested wood shaft. Most are too pretty for me to want to shoot though.
-
Originally posted by Pullonmylimb:
...
Nobody mentioned tapering tools. I like my tru taper, works for all 3 shaft sizes and has replaceable blades....
umm, yes i did - my list above is complete and won't break the bank ...
"a pencil type nock/point tapering tool"
-
Rob..."fletch tape"??
Guess I've been in my coma for too many years...I always used glue but have not made arras for 10 years.
Nice work and it seems...for cheapo too!
-
i have looooooong since stopped using glue for feathers. bohning fletch tape is *THE* way to go. instant bond, no waiting for glue to dry and the feathers are on for GOOD.
in a few weeks or so i will be posting a very complete and detailed woodie arrow building pictorial - probably with videos, too. on the cheap. but the finished arrows will look killer, promise.
-
I mentioned a taper tool as well.
-
Rob, can't wait for the tutorial! Hope there are lots of pics (I am a visual learner ;) ). I will be in the market for some arrow building supplies/tools later this year after taxes come back. So that I can start building my own arrows and arrows for my kids. I am in the process of trying to learn how to build bows for them on the "CHEAP". Anyways I can't wait for the build along/turorial, Mike.
-
Thanks all for the replies! You all gave me some good ideas and most importantly a little confidence I can do this.
Rob, I'll look forward to your pictorial.
Well, I'm off to Kalamazoo!
-
building arrows is so simple that a novice kid can do it with ease - even my 8 year old grandson.
-
Even a cave man can do it. I've been making them for years, and I'm no brain surgeon.
-
For my first wood shafts (years ago) I dipped in minwax in a golf-club tube with a 2 liter coke bottle glued to the top for a reservoir. For my crown, I painted the top 10" of the raw shaft with craft paint prior to dipping. For my first few sets, I bought shafts with the tapers already cut. Had an inexpensive BPE fletching jig. Chucked the shafts in a drill and crested with Sharpies. Those arrows were quite functional and decent looking as well.
-
with min wax wipe on polyu, there is no need for dipping - in fact, you shouldn't dip - the wiping works fantastic, for a glass-like finish or matte satin.
-
You can pick and choose what you need. There is no need for a cresting machine when you are starting out; that is purely a choice thing. I used dip tubes made from irrigation stuff for years.
Get a decent fletching jig and clamp-a used Bitz is great.
Some Rit dye, water-based acrylic dip, you don't havta' spend a lot; but spend enough so you can make a decent arrow there is no satisfaction in shooting crap. Focus on your point and nock tapers-they need to be well done for accurate shooting arrows.
-
I'm looking forward to your tutorial as well, Rob. I have about 3 dozen wood shafts on the way. And a dozen or two down stairs that I never tried to finish. And I agree with the fletch tape. If I can out a feather on, anybody can. I have some Sharpies, just afraid to try cresting...
-
"the finished arrows will look killer, promise."
Rob, no doubt in my mind, I've seen your arrow work.
-
I agree with the Phillips crester. I've had mine for 15 years. A Bitz fletcher is top quality and will last a lifetime. You can start out with a basic arrow and add more tools later when you want to cap and crest.
images no wider than 640 please
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k535/jhughes1818/031.jpg
-
Wood arrows are great if you start with good shafts, surewoods (fir), spruce, or cedar. Buy 1-2 dozen; 10" tapered shafts work great, but parallels will cost less. Most shops will taper the nock or point for a little more. Yes, the hand sharpener will do, or if you have a sanding disc, use a "V" shaped guide to get the 5 and 11 degree tapers.
Stain the whole shaft, or like the others suggested.
A good straight arrow that matches your bow is what you are after. It is more important than the bow.
3Rivers has some guides on line to making arrows. You will find other information from Kustom King, Raptor Archery, or any of the sponsors. The Forum for Arrows is a good place to check as well as the sponsors.
PM or email anyone that has posted if you need help.
-
imho, there is absolutely, positively no need, no requirement for expensive tools and materials in order to make durable, worthy, good looking arrows of any shafting material.
while it's nice to have a bitz, and i've had 7 of them over the decades, ANY *cheap* polycarb fletching jig will produce yeoman results for decades to come.
what is required to build solid, serviceable, good looking "battle" arrows, is knowledge - and here at trad gang that comes for cheap (aka as "free"). ;)
-
Rob, thanks for helping with the large photo above. I'm still trying to figure out how to downsize. You are right, arrows can be done with minimal equipment. The best way to build a quality arrow is with quality shafts like Surewood DF or Wapiti tapered POC. If he becomes addicted to arrow building like the rest of us, the tools can come later.
-
You can buy i dozen port offord ceders, classic nocks, glue on feild points, and fethers for less than $70.00. Then all you need is any fletcher of your likein. Hand taper tools are good, you can get them for like 5 or 6 bucks. You should be able to make a dozen arrows for $120.00 or less for the first time. Then the second batch you will be making them for about $60.00 a dozen shipping and all. I get most of my stuff from three rivers.
-
There's functional and then there's artful functionality. You can build a pretty darned good arrow that will hit where you look/aim (that's another thread all together! haha). But if you want to step it up a bit, as far as looks, you need to use better tools. That said, there are guys who do a whole lot more then me with far less! Kind of depends on your level of ingenuity and skill level with what you have.
-
Yes you can build quite nice arrows for very little $$$$. If you follow the basics outlined above. Then when you decide you want to keep doing it, is the time to start investing in nicer tools. After building my own wood arrows for 30 years I have now collected quite an array of stuff.
Spine tester and grain scale to match arrows as close as possible. Woodchuck taper tool for points and nocks, dip tubes for sealing, cresting jig and brushes for making 'em pretty,
2 Bitz fletching jigs and a multifletcher.
And I am glad I bought most of this stuff years ago cause the prices were much better then.
So it can end up an addictive and costly hobby but doesn't have to be. Beside what better way to spend those winter nights than to make new arrows for the coming year.
-
Originally posted by snag:
There's functional and then there's artful functionality. You can build a pretty darned good arrow that will hit where you look/aim (that's another thread all together! haha). But if you want to step it up a bit, as far as looks, you need to use better tools. That said, there are guys who do a whole lot more then me with far less! Kind of depends on your level of ingenuity and skill level with what you have.
there are fletchers i know who take arrow building right into the *art* level. we're talking upwards and beyond two *days* per arrow build. you wouldn't wanna even shoot the final products, they're that beautiful.
to each their own, as it should be.
-
Thanks again for all the replies! Lots of good ideas!
-
the best way is to find your own way...in the end you will be happy that you did it yourself..
-
Rob, I love that arrow! What color is the stain you're using for the lower (darker) part of the shaft?
-
Originally posted by Rooselk:
Rob, I love that arrow! What color is the stain you're using for the lower (darker) part of the shaft?
i use powdered analine dye/stain, mixed with water. both colors are amber aniline, with a few drops of black aniline added for the darker foreshaft color. that's pretty much my fave arrow stain coloring - darker foreshaft, brighter cap end for visibility - natural turk or goose feathers.