For you wood arrow builders, any opinions on Three Rivers arrow taper plane jig?
I guess as an after thought do you have any opinions on shooting tapered vs non tapered wood shafts, especially for hunting.
Bob.
I have some barreled tapered shafts from Don Stoles, PM him and ask his method. I don't find any difference in the way they shoot.I think it's about getting a harder arrow at the taper.
I haven't tried the taper plane,but I do notice a difference in how the tapered shafts shoot.I think the lighter nock end clears the bow better and recovers faster from paradox,giving better flight even at point blank range.Good idea on tapering your own,they seem to be a little too steep on the price for such a simple operation.I'm sure one of the folks on here has a cheap alternative to commercial jigs...good luck!
I always taper 23/64 shafts, and they definitely fly cleaner. the difference does not seem to be as great with 11/32 shafts. for 11/32 practice arrows I usually don't but for 11/32 hunting arrows I will put a little taper on them, just to make the best arrow I can possibly build.
I have not tried the taper plane either, I use coarse sandpaper and chuck the shaft in a drill. be glad to give more detailed description if you would like.
I always taper them because it just looks so cool. 5" at the point and 8 or 10 at the fletch. If doing a dozen just use some 80 grit paper held in your hand; only takes a few minutes to do them all. When doing a larger bunch, like 50 to 100 I send them out. Personally I have not experienced a difference in accuracy-just do it for aesthetics.
mudfish, Could you post your reply on hand tapering for everyone? I have had the same question that "Bob B" has asked concerning tapered vs. non-tapered shaft. Also if you sand them by hand, how do you have consistency in all of your shafts? Any problems encountered with fletching? This can be a real helpful reference for a lot of folks who make, or want to make their own wood arrows. My thanks to all, who weigh in on this.
I pick the straightest end and cut the nock taper on all the shafts. I take a yardstick and mark each shaft with pencil in one inch increments from the nock end, 8 marks. that puts the last mark 9" from the end which gives around a 10" taper. I chuck a shaft in the cordless drill which stands on it's own. I draw a pencil line completely around the shaft at each mark by spinning the drill on slow.
take 80 or 100 grit sandpaper and sand off the first 2 lines from the nock. redraw those 2 lines and sand off the first 4 lines, redraw, sand off the first 6 lines, redraw and finally sand off all 8 lines. I wear a cotton work glove on that hand because it will get hot, and use back and forth strokes, taking care to go clear back to the nock taper on each stroke so you get an even taper, while spinning the shaft at high speed.
it sounds tedious but actually it goes real fast. after all the shafts are done, assuming that they are 23/64, I take the 11/32 guide from the taper tool and mark how far it slides up each shaft, usually just a little less than halfway up the taper. then put some additional tapering on any that need it till they are all pretty uniform. but your hand gets educated real quick and you would be surprised at how uniform they can end up after just the first go-round. I do not put that much taper on that the 5/16 guide would go past the nock taper, I don't want to have to use super small nocks.
I don't generate near as much sawdust when doing 11/32 shafts, just a real light taper, and just trust my instincts as far as getting them uniform. I guess a micrometer would come in useful but that seems to be splitting hairs a little too fine.
they fletch up just fine, and thanks for asking, tradshooter.
That sounds pretty straight forward and easy. Might have to try on my next batch of woodies.
Cool,mudfish.Gotta try that next time I get some woodies to whip up.Thanks!
glad you liked it, it's easier to do than explain. forgot to mention, and it seems obvious, that after I am satisfied with the tapers I chuck them back in the drill and smooth out that taper with some 150 grit, then the whole shaft with 220.