Another newbie question.
How do you choose a broadhead for a recurve/traditional archery?
Do the arrow weights and speeds make it better to use a cut on contact like Zwickey or something or do broadheads like Muzzy and the chisel points still work really well? I've been a wheelie shooter for a long time. And always shot some type of either mechanical or chisel head. But It seems most people shoot cut on contact type heads with trad.
Definitely cut on contact tips design, which can then be "chissle tipped" slightly by the hunter himself to strengthen the very tip of the point.
I like a SMOOTH furrel as well with no bumps.
I like 2 or 3 blade...smallest vents possible or even better no vents. I don't get into the extremes...and personally avoid very light and very heavy tips. I like 125-160 grains up front. I like the length to width ratio to be favorable and like a blade thickness to be sturdy with good construction.
To date, my favorites would be the old Zephyrs and the Abowyers...but the snuffers are also good for a multiple blade.
Personal choice.I think the Woodsman is a well rounded head for all your needs.IMHO
Shot 2 blades for 30 plus years,changed to 160 grain Woodsman E lites this year and love them.Best bloodtrail I have ever had,did not use it as I watched him fall less than 40 yards away,
There is no benefit to shooting chisel point heads or mechanical heads over cut on contact heads. Any arrow will perform better when properly tuned using cut on contact heads.
As for which ones to use it really just depends on what you like. You will have to know how to sharpen the heads you pick, so that may be a consideration. Other than that, its probably good to stick with narrower heads if you're shooting under 50# at your draw. Over 50# or if you have a long draw just shoot whatever you like.
Cut on Contact is a must for me. Mechanicals are useless. The chisel points work though they can still not perform as well as an Cut on Contact broadhead.
Find one that flys well is durable and the most important you can get scary sharp.
ever since i started shooting Bows i have shot Bows 45# @26" and use cut on contact 2 Blade broadheads sharp and i do mean sharp. i use ace 2 Blade -zwicky 2 Blade - and stos and the good old fred Bear heads. :thumbsup:
I am a grizzly man. I have plowed through 5 deer this year, all pass throughs and very short blood trails. 4 of the 5 went down in site and 3 of those inside of 30 yards. Under no discription is a grizzly cut on contact.
Since I shoot low poundage bows, the 2 blade broadheads are perfect for the poundages I shoot. For me, a STOS 2 blade is durable, the tips don't curl, easy to sharpen and they fly great.
I have always been a bigger is better kind of guy and I like and use Zephyr Sausquatch, Magnus I, and Snuffer 160's. The narrowest broadhead I use is the 145 Eclipse with bleeder blades. Never had a problem with penetration on any of them. I want to try some of the new heads that Jim at Centar Archery has. I will get some when I get my bow from him.
where you may not be used to sharpening broadheads yet you need something ready right from the pack,,,, stinger 2 and 4-blades,, Muzzy phantoms, Abowyer (if you know how to glue in the ferrals so they spin straight) and maybe more but I'd opt for the stingers if i where you toll you become a bit more familiar with whats out there and what prep is needed use them in the woods.
Thanks guys!
Tajue17- Yep. With compounds I've been shooting stuff right out of the package like G5 and Muzzy. But only 100grs.
I've got 3 or 4 different ones I am looking at right now and I plan on getting about 3 different ones at a big archery store next week in order to try them out and see how they fly.
why did bear quit making the old style razor heads?
I wish I had saved the article from back in the late 1980's where the "researcher" concluded that shooting 2 blade cut-on-contact broadheads was like adding 10 pounds to your draw weight versus the multiple blade insert type broadhead (like the Wasp and Muzzy which were popular back then - one of the brands even had a six blade option).
I'm not totally sure I buy the full 10 pounds but I definitely believe the cut-on-contact heads do "add poundage".
Bill
Joseph - thanks for the tip on Centaur broadheads. I just went to their website and watched the video - pretty impressive
Guys-the Centaurs are just downright nasty and they fly like darts. Peace!
You cant beat a good two blade head like the zwickey or for deer sized game the three blade woodsman broadhead . I find the three blade a little easier to sharpen . :archer:
I am a firm believer in using the sharpest head possible. That being said I would rather see someone using a replacable blade muzzy or thunderhead with new sharp blades than a semi-dull COC head. They will get the job done with a reasonable weight bow and well tuned, reasonable weight arrow.........
those centaur heads are cool. I like the Battle axe broadhead. That thing looks freakin wicked!
Why do trad archers shoot heavier broadheads than a compound? Just curious here.
I think it has to do with aq number of factors. Wanting a durable reuseable broadhead and not thinking of them as a through away 1 shot item. I also think it has to do with most trad hunters wanting to shoot heavier arrows. I don't think you will ever or very seldom see a compound shooter trying to get an arrow 10 grains per poun d of bow weight.
I started out with Muzzy chisel points. That was the best solution back then before I figured out how to sharpen a broadhead correctly. Now that I know how to get them shaving sharp, I've gone to Zwickey then Woodsmen Elites. It makes sense to me that cut on contact heads probably penetrate a little better than chisel points; but I'm not convinced the improvement is really all that significant. As many have said, how far in the dirt do you want to bury your arrow after a passthrough..
I've used mechanicals for turkeys a few times, but they failed more than they worked for me. In my opinion, mechanical broadheads have no place in bowhunting; period.
swamp yankee- you said it! i can't for the life of me understand why people would shoot anything with a mechanical bh. i don't want to take the chance of something not working when i did my part. i know a few guys that their bh's didn't do its part and they were shooting a mechanical bh. FIXED AND SHARP IS THE ONLY WAY TO HUNT!