Hi all,
I could use some advice. I have been trying to tune my broadheads to impact the same as my field points. Its proving tricky. Im shooting a 67# @ 28" recurve and am shooting 29" AD Trads with 100gr insert and 260gr FPs and BHs. The horizontal impacts of the BHs and FPs are in line, meaning there isn't a spine problem. However the BHs were impacting higher than the FPs, so I raised the nocking point. Im now at 10/16" above centre and the BHs are hitting the centre of the target, but now the FPs are hitting low again. I was getting really good arrow flight with the FPs before raising the nocking point, and the amount raised seems excessive. I don't know what do you all think...is it possible to tune BHs and FPs to impact exactly the same point as each other? Anything Im missing?
It is possible. I have mine tuned perfectly. I would start over by setting the nock set about 3/8 inch above center and work thru the up and down movements to find what works.
It sounds like you are way high on the nock point which can cause bad arrow flight. I found that tuning broadheads to field points takes very little adjustment to make a significant difference.
Did you start out by bare shaft to fletched field point tuning? Once I get that right, I have found my broadheads to tune in with very little adjustment of brace height or nock point.
10/16" or 5/8" above center is not that high especially if you shoot 3 under.
Try bareshafting and see what happens, I'm guessing you will get a nock high reading and may have quite the time getting rid of it. If this is the case have a nocking point above and below your arrow nock will very often correct this.
I 2nd bareshafting. What is your target distance? If you;re confident your BH's are same weight as your FP's, make sre your BH's are properly aligned w/spin test & balance. I had Zwickeys plane on me so bad I blamed the BH. I was wrong! My heavier bows shoot wood arrows w/2-blades right w/FP's all the time. That's longer LB's all in excess of 70#@28".
Thanks for your feedback guys, I'll reset the nock point and try again. Yep I did bare shaft tune, back to about 35 metres, and everything seemed fine. I'll double check everything again and see if missed something.
Thanks again, its appreciated!
What broadhead are you using? And, do the arrows with the FP balance at the same distance from the nock groove that the BH arrows do? If you are moving your center of gravity around (and/or the pivot/high point of your rest is not right above the deepest part of the grip) it might cause a vertical change in impact with different c.g. arrows.
Could be how your broadheads are placed, May just be your sight window like when some people shoot 3blades different usually lower than 2blades, no need to change anything just practice with it and you'll get used to it I don't know if this is the issue or not but just an option hope I helped.
Look at it this way. You stated that your broadhead tipped arrows are hitting the center of the target so what arrows do you hunt with? Practice with the hunting arrows and forget about the field points or forget trying what isn't always possible.
Regards,
Grouse
I get mine flying the same-best way to practice. I use a 25 gn heavier FP to equalize the spine difference-the BH makes the arrow longer and 'softer'.
Thanks for the info guys. Im using STOS broadheads, I'll have to check to see where the balance point is but Im sure its probably different, which could be a factor. I'll be doing a bit more shooting this afternoon once it cools down and see where we are.
Although its a "pain" I kinda like this tinkering, figuring stuff out!
check out paper tuning.
here is a recent post with a little info on it....
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=099254;p=1
I know AD's are very forgiving of spine range, but I think you might have exceeded the upper end of it.
370gr's on a 29" AD out of a 67# bow...just seems to me you're underspined even AD's have a limit.
I think the the shafts might be handling the fp, but connot handle the bh's....
Just my thoughts on what I'm reading...
Have you tried a bare shaft?
When setting your nock point, if you start high, say 7/8 or 1 inch and work down from there you will avoid getting a false reading. And I always use two nock points.
what bjorn said...
SL