this years arrow trade has encouraged me to step up my game ive just recently started fletching my own and would like to start cresting anyone have home made cresting machines you can share ive got some space but dont have the $135 bucks to spend right now
Oh, I've got one right up your alley. Cost: $3.00 or so.
I made two blocks, set about 24" apart on a piece of 3/4" plywood. one block has two "V" groves in the top. The other block has one "V" grove and a 5/16" hole beside it - in line with the "V" on the other end pf the plywood base.
To use, place the tapered end of the shaft in the hole, lay the opposite end in the "V" and twirl with your fingers while using a pen to make the crests.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1983.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1984.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1990.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1996.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM2014.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM2026.jpg)
Lay the shaft in the two "V" groves and twirl it to check nock and broadhead/point alignment.
Also available: a cheap jig for shaft tapering
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1969.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1975-1.jpg)
i also have one but i used an eletric drill and a v block. works great. forry no pic :(
hey if that chep tapering jig does NOT involve a sander then let me know
That's to taper the last 10" or 12" (or the whole shaft):11/32" to 5/16" or 23/64" to 11/32" or 5/16". Not for the nock and point taper.
Improves recovery from paradox and helps penetration. FOC from WAY before anyone called it that.
(I use a Woodchuck for nock & point taper).
i dont get how that tapers. is that a blade in the front?
-hov
Nope. The cutting blade is a Bowyer's Edge from Dean Torges. A sort of mix between a razor plane and a cabinet scraper. The maple 2" x 2" is just to hold it (that's the head of a finishing nail sticking up in the end of the groove to hold the shaft). I start from 4", 8" and 12" and the lines at 3", 5" and 10" are just there to tell me where I've removed the wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1970.jpg)
Four done, one not.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM1974-1.jpg)
Here's a link to the directions
http://www.bowyersedge.com/pdfs/BEInstr.pdf
Love the simplicity of your crester. May just have to build myself one. Never got into cresting because of the special jig and paints. But a couple of blocks and some pens, fantastic.
Well, I thought I was clever but Rob DiStefano has been doing it for ages. :rolleyes:
At least I proves it's repeatable. :biglaugh:
so you just go around the shaft till the pencil is gone?
-hov
stumpkiller you're right that is exactly what i was looking for thank man !
:notworthy: :notworthy: :campfire:
QuoteOriginally posted by hova:
so you just go around the shaft till the pencil is gone?
-hov
Yep. Three lines. The drawshave is set to the thickness of a piece of paper (I use a Post-it note). Start "upshaft" of the line and push towards the nock, twist the shaft a few degrees and repeat until the pencil mark has been shaved off. Takes 20 repetitions or so at each stage. Then back upshaft to the next spot and repeat. Then the third. Then smooth the shaft with 220 grit followed by 400 grit and from there it's just like a parallel shaft to finish up.
And boy, does it smell good.
Here's mine. I made it from some parts that I had collected over the years and some scrap wood. I probably have $15 in it.
It has a high torque DC motor and a variable dc power supply. With the variable power supply, I can adjust the speed that the shaft turns. The felt lined wood blocks hold the shaft and can be moved up and down the shaft inside the track. It's kind of ghetto, but it works for me.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/2.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/3.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/4.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/5.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/6.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/7.jpg)
And here's a couple of arrows that I did on it:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/P1040140a1.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/bctgrad/fw-d1.jpg)
Brian
Nice! Great idea to blend the cresting to the laminates! That's really sharp. :thumbsup:
I did some similar things as Brian- I just used an old sewing machine motor with the pedal. The pedal is great to control the speed. Bet you can pick old ones up at Goodwill or a sewing machine shop.
Dan in KS
brian,
man that is cool nice lookin bow in that pic as well thanks for the ideas guys
Sewing machine motor with a foot pedal.
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z267/horatio1226/cresting002.jpg)