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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Swiftspeed10 on January 18, 2011, 08:49:00 PM

Title: On nocking points.
Post by: Swiftspeed10 on January 18, 2011, 08:49:00 PM
So I always had my PSE Impala recurve strung the same way and I never had a nock point on it.  I also never unstrung the bow unless I changed strings. I now have a Dwyer Endeavor longbow which I take care of meticulously.  Only problem is the bow comes with a nock point  so I decided to buy nock pliers and put it on.  about 1/8 high I put the nock point and set the proper brace height to my longbow.

Problem is every time I shoot I unstring my bow and try as I may I can never get the nock point to stay in the same spot.  Even while im shooting the bow it twists and raises or lowers.  It is driving me nuts and I really don't even understand what the whole point of having the nockpoint is.  After shooting without one for years I grew accustomed to setting the arrow knock slightly higher than the arrow rest.

Someone please give me tips/advice on nockpoints!
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Stumpkiller on January 18, 2011, 09:36:00 PM
The whole point of having a nock point is to have consistantly good arrow flight.  Too low and the arrow may slap the shelf as it is released.  Too high and the arrow will porpose.

I start at 3/8" above level with the shelf/rest.

You must be having the brace height moving around as well.  When you unstring pull the string loop down over the limb tip instead of off the limb.  That way it won't untwist.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Lone Ranger on January 18, 2011, 10:22:00 PM
sounds to me like it is not on the string correctly. get a good set of crimpers!
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: okie64 on January 18, 2011, 10:35:00 PM
If you crimp it on tight and keep your same brace height every time you shoot there shouldnt be a problem.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Fischman on January 19, 2011, 12:53:00 AM
Check that its crimped on tight and then make sure your serving is not slipping on the string.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Swiftspeed10 on January 19, 2011, 12:55:00 AM
but what about when the string itself is twisting in either direction while i shoot changing the brace height?
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Skipmaster1 on January 19, 2011, 01:04:00 AM
The only way your string should be "twisting" while you shoot is if the string is still "being shot in" and stretching. Once that happens the BH should be the same and the nock should not move. I shoot for a while before I start moving the nocking point again. Just keep adjusting the BH by adding a twist before stringing it until it settles in. A nocking point is VERY important. without it there is no way to get really consistant and it's even more important when you shoot broad heads
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Grey Taylor on January 19, 2011, 01:56:00 AM
With the bow strung the string is held at each end and can not lengthen or shorten by twisting or untwisting, it's just not possible.


Guy
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: lpcjon2 on January 19, 2011, 06:07:00 AM
1.Leave it strung  2.Get a string keeper(when you unstring it goes over the tip and hooks on the loop) 3. use a hair band (made for ponytail strong elastic bands-any drugstore or walmart)when you take the string off lay it against the limb and wrap the band around it. 4.mark the riser with a small piece of tape or sharpie so when strung you can look at the mark and line up the nock. Personally I dont care for crimp nocks and would serve on a nock point.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: gvdocholiday on January 19, 2011, 06:25:00 AM
Get rid of that brass performance inhibitor, grab a spool of waxed dental floss, and tie on a nock set.

Just like this:
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMqTmLmMPjg

It's very easy.  And once you get a consistent shot to shot nock location, you'll see that consistency show up down range and your shooting experience will be much more enjoyable.     :clapper:
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Ralphie on January 19, 2011, 09:05:00 AM
I agree that waxed dental tape is better than a brass nock. Dental tape is better than floss.
Set your nock position by marking with a grease pencil first,the best nock position for good arrow  flight. Tie a bit of floss/tape on the spot or keep it marked. When home wind some floss/tape, or serving thread, on the nock spot and put a drop of nail polish or glue to keep it from unraveling.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Bowwild on January 19, 2011, 09:39:00 AM
Good advice above. I can't imagine trying to be accurate (and comfortable) shooting a bow withoug a nocking point. In fact, I put one above and below the arrow nock leaving about a 1/16th" gap to allow for the string angle at full draw.  The advice to tie a nock locator is also great.  I'd buy a spool of serving thread and use that instead of other material -- one spool will last you a life-time. Better yet would be a spool of bowstring material because it flattens out nice when you serve the nock locator.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Stumpkiller on January 19, 2011, 09:40:00 AM
QuoteOriginally posted by gvdocholiday:
Get rid of that brass performance inhibitor, grab a spool of waxed dental floss, and tie on a nock set.

Hmmmmm.  For many, many years I have used the temporary tooth cleaner floss whipping method until I find the right spot and then I replace it with a brass nock point as I find them more durable in the long run.  To each his own.

Though, I gotta say I often get lazy and wipe Duco over the floss and have had them last as almost as long as the string does.    :biglaugh:   It's not unusual for my "temporary" solutions to be in place five or six years; and not just in archery.    ;)
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Bowwild on January 19, 2011, 09:42:00 AM
One more thing.  The "book" on shooting with fingers is to start with the nock locator 1/2" above horizontal (bottom of knot). Of course you shouldn't stop there. You should then shoot your arrows to make sure they don't porpoise (up and down fluctuation in flight). If they do, you bump the nock locator up or down by 1/16th" at a time. Better than looking at the arrow in flight are paper tuning or bare-shaft tuning.

This kind of info may seem like a lot or too much information (and as readers here know, I didn't even touch on most of it). However, for ultimate enjoyment of archery a these things are good to know. Once you know it, it's yours!
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: maineac on January 19, 2011, 10:48:00 AM
Great info above.  The only reason I can think that the brass nock point is moving is because it is too large a diameter.  They make them in different sizes.  If you got to large a one even with a crimping tool it will be loose and move under pressure.  Try the floss style nock point.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: frank bullitt on January 19, 2011, 12:00:00 PM
Swift, can you post a pic of the serving area? It would be easier for us to access what's going on.

I agree, that the serving is either loose or nock set not tight, or wrong size.

Twisting, to change brace height, and or shooting, should not change nock location!

Where in New York, maybe someone nearby to help?
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: Jason R. Wesbrock on January 19, 2011, 01:18:00 PM
QuoteOriginally posted by maineac:
Great info above.  The only reason I can think that the brass nock point is moving is because it is too large a diameter.  They make them in different sizes.  If you got to large a one even with a crimping tool it will be loose and move under pressure.  Try the floss style nock point.
He beat me to it. I'd be willing to bet that you have the wrong size nock set on the string. The large ones have red rubber in them. Black is medium, and greenish blue is small. Try the next size smaller, crimp it on tightly, and it won't screw up and down the serving anymore.
Title: Re: On nocking points.
Post by: JEFF B on January 19, 2011, 01:23:00 PM
floss tyed on get nocking point right then super glue it in place and it will never move again thats all i do and it works just fine. if ya dont want to do that just mark each end of ya centre serving with what ever then take the serving off and re serve it then tye a nock on and i would think ya problem would be solved.  :thumbsup: