Is it possible to refletch woodies?If so whats the easiest way?
i know if you use platinum heat them up and the feathers should come off. other than that im not sure
I buy old wooden arrows for squirrel hunting. I scrape the old fletch off, usually pry/scrape the old nock off. I then lightly sand and then reseal the arrow shaft. I then glue on a new nock and refletch. Sometime I have had problems with the new paint reacting with the old, when that happens, I will sand the shaft down to bare wood, seal it, refletch and shoot it. Bill
What bill said. I use a dull knife to scrape the remaining quill and glue off then sand. If I use a sharp knife u gouge the shaft to much.
Keeping the Faith!
Magnus
Scrape/slice them off and clear away the white residue of the quill and then use Duco cement to attach the new one. Make sure you get the proper wing (left wing feathers have a little "L" at the base where the quill extends out). I have some that have been refletched several times. Especially the lowest feather that runs along the shelf.
I refletch on woodies frequently. Stumpies right. Be aware of left wing to right wing. The dull knife is the trick. After removing existing fletch stand the blade on end and scrape the remaing away. If your careful you won't have to refinish. If finish is required place a little on a rag and wipe on staying away from existing fletch. I use Fletch Tite (there are some concerns of compatibility) and have had no problems. The more you do the easier it is.
Like Bill said. The old Bear wood arrows seem to be made of real good quality cedar and for the most part stay straight. I also sand down to bare wood tape off the cap and spray krylong on the cap end. Killed many deer with old re-fletched arrows.
Woodies have been refletched since there were arrows. It would be preposterous for someone to claim they could not be refletched.
You can develop the skill to remove them with a SHARP knife. I like to use a very sharp knife. I grip the point end of the shaft under my left arm and hold the nock in my left hand. Place the knife blade with the bevel parallel to the shaft surface.
I hold the knive stationary and pull the shaft toward the cutting edge. Most of the time, I can separate the glue from the shaft finish. A little sanding gets rid of any glue the blade misses.
This will be the contrarian view, I have no doubt.