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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: highpoint forge on January 13, 2011, 12:15:00 PM
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I'm playing with some Grizzlystik arrows I picked up, and was wondering if any Stu Miller Calc jocks out there could tell me what arrow info (exact diameter outside, static spine 2# @26" ?) to enter for the AB Banshee 600s?
2008 Alaska Bowhunting PDF catalog says 12gpi, for 40-50# bows. My analog micrometer reads .320" or so OD. My eyes were almost unable to discern the hash marks on my calipers. I'm using/assuming the static spine # for the calculator is basically the same as the Sitka which is made now.....static spine of 60#.
Also safest method for nock and insert removal with parallel (not continuous taper) woven carbon? Can fletching be removed from the bare surface of a Grizzlystik w/o ruining it?
Using a 62" PLX widow 50# @28, with them.
Thanks!
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Anyone...Bueller?
Bueller?
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Nock and insert may be a trick. To me, it depends on what they were installed with. For the insert, screw in a BIG field point. Use a propane tourch and heat the tip area of the field point CHECKING FREQUENTLY with pliers trying to twist the insert. The threaded section of the field point will transfer heat to the insert. Even if its epox. you should be able to turn it before anything happens to the shaft. Have a pan of cool water standing by and as soon as ya get it out dip the shaft in the water.
As to the nock... ya might try heating some water and submerging the nock end in it and trying the same thing.
I am able to do inserts on my AD's without a problem. I do install them with hot melt and I do not glue my nocks in so there is no problem there.
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Hey Bruce can arrows glued to these things without a wrap be removed ? I know they have a special finish and recommend a wrap. Four arrows are no wrap, and seven are wrapped.
Probably just going to cut them all to 29.25" and skip heating them up...unless some of the insert will remain behind, although that part still will have threads..........OMG my head hurts!
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I am being dense... graded tests today but I do not understand your first para. above. Arrows(?) glued to what things(?) without a wrap......
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Grizzlystiks have an ultrasmooth coating applied to them. The seller of these arrows applied fletching DIRECTLY to the arrow rather than using a cresting wrap, per AB's directions. I'd like to start over with better feathers and wraps.....4 of the arrows have no wrap. Not sure if you can use anything on these to remove the old glue and NOT damage the finish. That is THE question.
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OK. Try the hot water thing on the wraps. That should make them lose enought to get them off.
On the fletched ones try the same thing. If it does not work use alcohol. Sometimes it will "soften" the glue enough to remove the fletch and then allow you to "rub" off the glue.
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I have always used a dull pocket knife to remove old glue You can use the same knife to remove the wrap. I just started using a razor blade, you will have to use care when using it but, it works great. I tried the hot water trick and it never worked for me.
As far as the spine goes you will have to spine your own set. The spine can vary from shaft to shaft. This is why ABS nolonger sells these shafts. They got in a huge order where the spine did not match.
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Just pulled the wraps off next to my toasty living room fireplace, and man these suckers were ON THERE. Tough as can be too, whatever material they were made from. They left sticky residue.
Looks like the slick finish stuck to some of the wraps, but not to worry as they'll just be covered again with a new 7" wrap and 5" fletchings. Rest of shaft is pristine.
I'm making a set of CE Heritage 150s as well, on my day off.
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I'll say the CE H' 150s flew like darts....a tad nock high but target was low to the ground.