New to the woodie game,do you bareshaft tune your
woods like the carbons?Is there another way to tune them?
Yes.
You also must be careful to align the grain so it is perpendicular to the string when nocked.
Note - you are actually tuning the bow when you bareshaft - not the arrows. Unless you are swapping point weights, that is.
Bareshafting works with wood, but woods don't like side impact loads and if they hit a kinda hard target at much of an angle they can snap. I much prefer to paper tune with my woods. It works better for me and is much easier to read.
I don't have the instructions up on my website as yet, but Paul Jalon, Elite Arrows, does. You can find it in the Sponsor Links.
Fletcher is right as usual, if you are off by a fair bit you can snap a cedar shaft by shooting it into a hay bale, paper tuning is a good alternative.
For instructions on bareshafting go to www.acsbows.com. (http://www.acsbows.com.) Both methods work-pick the one that suits you.
2X on paper tuning, I also flight tune. What You do is go to a big open field and shoot a arrow in the sky. You will see it in paradox and them come out of it..
See how the tail is when flying. Start the shaft off full length and note how it flies, then change point weight and note. If tail is still flying the sameway, Cut shaft 1/4" re-taper and start over with light point and more up in weight.
Your Goal is for the arrow to come out of paradox ASAP. Once I have that done, I go right to paper to fine tune.. I start at 5 yards, when I get a close to a bullet or a bullet hole, I'll move back to 10, then 20 yards to make sure it is Good.
Yes, it takes some time doing it this way, but I find it works best for me. If You can't get to a field Just do paper test..
I have bareshafted carbon and aluminum but with wood I just add about 10-15 lbs spine above draw wt. Fletch em up and shoot em. You can tell what works and what doesn't.
If you can find an arrowsmith that will sell you some bare tuning shafts at the arrow length you want, that is the way to go. I have some that I have had for several years, and when I get a new or used bow, I start with them to see where to start.