Greetings All,
I'm thinking of internal footings for woodies and for those who have/or are using them, a few questions.
First, how much did you have to change arrow spine and what weight did you add? I shoot 160 grns on the business end now and am thinking of getting up to 260grns... Right now, I shoot 80-84 spine arrows in 11/32 dia with a 10" taper to 5/16 on the nock end.
Second, did you notice a huge difference in the flight/accuracy/tragectory of you arrows?
I guess my goal is to keep at 10gpp but get the weight up front more. I have read/heard this makes for a better flying arrow that recovers from paradox quicker.
I hope I asked the correct questions...if more is needed, please ask.
Thanks in advance.
Happy hunting,
Jason
Jason, i use them and love them. I think I went up 5# in spine, but only added 40 grains or so. I shoot a 160 as well and like the 200 up front, also put my arrows at 680 out of 62# longbow. They fly great out to 30 (my limit) and start dropping after that, but not significantly. I was impressed on how the footing has performed. I got a complete pass through on my moose this year, at 30 yards, quartering away, with a 3 blade.
So in short, I love them and won't shoot any wood without them. Hope this helps, and nice moose in your avatar!
I use the internal footings also and for up to 100gr I had to go up about 5lbs spine as well. But I am shooting selfbows that use a lighter spine arrow. You may have to go up to arrows spined in the 90lb class, which can be difficult to find. As far as arrow flight mine is the best it has been in over 10 years of shooting selfbows. I have now gone to an hardwood footing and internal only if needed to get gross arrow weight up, and still best flight ever. Again only about 5lbs of spine more that I shot before for the hardwood foot. IF I need both I go up 10lbs in spine.
I feel it is well worth the extra time and effort to internal and or hardwood foot my arrows for the excellant flight I get. Which will of course improve penetration, with good flight and FOC as an added benefit.
Thanks for the input Guys!
Happy hunting,
Jason
Guess I went about it a bit different. I started making woodies about a month ago and my 1st batch was too heavy of a spine but just a tad. The real problem was I had already bought all my glue on points and they weigh 125 gr and my arrows were cut so no making them longer.
I used the jig to add enough weight to get my tips to 145gr and get them hitting in the middle instead of to the left.
I don't really see any difference in drop at all. Of course I'm using a lot less weight up front than you are.
Here is my response on a similar thread a few days ago. You'll find more thoughts there as well.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=098244;p=2#000019
So far, I have been very happy with my Heavy Head arrows. They shoot great and the penetration performance has been excellent.
Thanks Fletch!
Happy hunting,
Jason
TTT
Rigs: If you add 100 grains up front you're going to need another 10# of spine. If you're already at 80-84# spine, I don't think you'll find 90-94# in 11/32 cedar. Even hard to come by in 23/64.
So...if adding weight up front weakens the spine to the point where finding shafting @ length becomes an issue then I would have to assume some hardwood footing would be necessary.
Is there a general rule of thumb for spine increase per inch of footing added and does that include the "wings" or just the complete diameter up front?
I hope that questions makes as much sense to you as it does to me.
You could always internally foot the back of the shaft too...
Trad-Man,
I don't know if this answers your question, but the Dynamic Spine Calculator that you can download from TradGang, has a place where you can put in the length and weight of your footing. You can see how it affects dynamic spine by simply putting in numbers.
I've fooled with Stu's calculator. And I have found it to be very beneficial. I guess the problem I am having is just how long is the actual footing length. Do I enter the overall length of just the section that has not been cut out?
Worst case scenerio is that I can make a 36" shaft and spine it between any two 26" distances. but I'd rather have some idea of where I'm going to end up before I get started.
Two options when foc leaves one with too light a spine is to bump out your strike plate to decrease center shot. Abother is to reduce brace height a bit.
Not always the solution, but a direction to try.