I've always used acetone for cleaning shafts prior to fletching. Probably just a carry-over from shooting aluminum to shooting carbon. I recently read somewhere on a thread here that acetone with carbon is a no-no. Never heard that before, so if it's true someone please do enlighten me before I inadvertently splint my ulna! :confused:
I use only lacquer thinner. I believe I have used acetone to wipe carbon down, but never soaked them in it...
I've been using it on my AD Trads to get the writing off and have had no issues whatsoever. I suppose you don't want to soak the shafts in it, but a moistened rag shouldn't penetrate the fibers. I'd say go for it.
I use denatured alcohol to wipe down the shaft and I always use arrow wraps on my carbons.It makes them so much easier to redo later without having to scrape off old or damaged feathers.And I never have a problem with feathers not staying on.
I use it and any other solvent I can find around. Carbon is tough as nails and you can put jut about anything on it. "Goof Off" sticker remover works great also.
Alcohol and some brass wool
I have neer had a problem with it. I use denatured alchol as well.
Just as an experiment ;I put some cut of pieces of carbon arrows (black finish) in acetone over night to see what would happen...no visible damage..the only thing I have noticed is that some carbons with a camo finish don't fair as well...acetone appears to soften or remove the camo finish..just my experience. I use denatured alcohol to wipe both aluminum and carbon down for re-fletching. Ten to One ; I'd rather re-fletch aluminum.
I use it to wipe labels off carbons with no problems. As stated, don't soak them in it.
I wipe with acetone, then air dry (doesn't take long), then a quick wipe with paper towel and fletch.
I don't soak my shafts in anything.
Same here, a rag wipedown with acetone before wraps or fletching works best.
At one time Carbon Express stated use MEK not acetone to prep theier shafts. Haven't looked in a while to see if they still say that.
Just looked again. From CX website.
Quote
How do I prepare Carbon Express carbon shafts for fletching?
1) Using a clean white paper towel, wipe the shaft where the fletching will be applied with denatured alcohol. Continue to lightly wipe
2) Wipe the base of the vanes with denatured alcohol also. Most vane producers use a mold-release agent in the manufacturing process that must be removed for solid adhesion between the shaft and vane.
3) Do not touch the portion of the shaft to be fletched, or the base of the vane, or allow them to come into contact with any surface once they have been cleaned.
QuoteWhat do I do if I want to re-fletch Carbon Express carbon shafts?
(WARNING: Never soak carbon shafts in any harsh chemical), including acetone. MEK can be used on carbon shafts without damage to the shaft.
1) Use a dull knife to remove old fletching and glue. Be very careful to only remove fletching and glue - do not remove any carbon fibers.
2) Repeat steps 1-3 detailed under Preparing Carbon Shafts for Fletching.
Haven't had any problems with acetone and carbons either although I've only worked with Carbonwoods.
NorthernCaliforniaHunter - "been using it on my AD Trads to get the writing off"
Dang, didn't know that and thanx for the info. I know acetone won't take the labeling off Carbonwoods, and have been wondering and debating what next carbon shafts to go with since Carbonwoods have been discontinued, or what other types carbon shafts acetone will remove writing and labeling if DannyBows or others would be kind enough will enlighten me.
Thanx much!
I've used paint thinner many times to remove the screen printed labels before and to clean old fletching glue off with no ill effects at all. Like others have said, I don't soak them in it, but a good wipe with a wet rag then buff with a dry rag, apply arrow wrap, and fletch. Sure makes those arrow wraps fit like a second skin, but it's a real bisch to get em back off! :(
Not all carbons are the same. I shoot Beman MFX shafting and as stated on the enclosed literature, their "technical help" if you check with them insist that 91% isopropyl alcohol be used and NOT,NOT,NOT acetone as they emphasized. I had contacted them after fletching that a friend had glued on after prepping with acetone started coming off at release, during flight and on impact. Re-fletching using the alcohol to prep has proven succesful, it is still on the shafts after a while now. I'm thinking meybe they were right.
I believe Bohning also says NOT to use acetone for cleaning the shaft before fletching. I use denatured alcohol also.
I've used it in the past with no bad results. I figure if a man SOAKED it in acetone you might have bad results. With that said I spray window cleaner and use a NON oily paper towel to wipe off!
dont get near your nocks.they can melt
Been using aceton in the shop for years with no problems at all.
If you are concerned about acetone-MEK-toluene etc damaging your shafts, take the off cut ends, and soak those pieces in the solvent you have concerns with.
There will probably be no damage to the shaft pieces unless the soaking period is quite long.
As most are only wiping down their shafts to remove dirt/oils/etc, I can't see any of these solvents dong any appreciable damage to an arrow.
I have used acetone, MEK, toluene, naptha etc to wipe down shafts, and other than removing the factory markings, I have seen NO evidence of any damage being done to the shafts, or any weakening of fletching cement (Bohning Platinum, or Bohning fletch tape)
As long as I don't stretch the fletch tape while applying it, I have no problem with my fletches coming loose, or falling off.
I moisten a rag and I never had any issue,if not for stripping off the feather,so difficult!!
Since this thread has ran it's course, will ask again:
"
NorthernCaliforniaHunter - "been using it on my AD Trads to get the writing off"
Dang, didn't know that and thanx for the info. I know acetone won't take the labeling off Carbonwoods, and have been wondering and debating what next carbon shafts to go with since Carbonwoods have been discontinued, or what other types carbon shafts acetone will remove writing and labeling if DannyBows or others would be kind enough will enlighten me.
Thanx much!
"
I really like carbon shafts, especially Beman MFX Classics. Fletching new shafts is no problem, keep em clean and wipe down with 91% Alcohol to be sure. However, eventually shafts need to be reflected if not lost or broken. Aluminum is soooo much easier to get the old fletching off. I always used knifes or razors to get the quill and all glue off, then soak for 10 minutes in acetone, wash off and wipe with alcohol. However, I nearly always damage the carbon shaft when trying to remove the glue and quill from them. I'm going to try the dull knife on them next time -- I've always used sharp knifes or razor blades and they dig in.
The last batch I worked on (a few days ago) i soaked in Acetone for about 10 minutes and wiped them down. No problems so far but if the dull blade works I'll stay away from the acetone.
Here's a doozy for ya and I need some help. I'm re-fletching a dozen older Grizzlystiks and some had wraps, some had fletching applied directly to the shaft. I need to clean off either sticky wrap adhesive or remove fletch-tite/similar from these Grizzlystiks.
I am not concerned with the slick finish at nock end, as it will be hidden under a new wrap.
MEK, lacquer thinner, acetone? I called BA and queried "Jenny" and apparently WARM SOAPY WATER will remove glue residue and old fletching glue now. OK. Interesting, if you have a year or two....I suppose. Man those people are weird. Iguess we are more cordial in TX than in AK.
NO CHEMICALS when I pressed further.
Customer service is not their strong suit, evidently.
Anyone?
I went ahead and took mineral spirits to the sticky ones.....worked like a charm. On the others, the previous owner used crazy glue, and as a wrap will be covering these, I simply hand sanded the ends with 220 sandpaper. Perfect enough. Seeing how the inserts are probably installed with crazy glue, I'm probably going to trim them from the nock end to save headaches. Another note, you need AT LEAST 1" wide wraps to wrap these.
Guess what's under that slick layer and pretty woven layer of carbon fiber? Straight black carbon just like a regular 'ol carbon arrow.....huh!
Will denatured alcohol take the writing off AD shafts?
QuoteOriginally posted by JRY309:
I use denatured alcohol to wipe down the shaft and I always use arrow wraps on my carbons.It makes them so much easier to redo later without having to scrape off old or damaged feathers.And I never have a problem with feathers not staying on.
I use the alchohol too, but not the wraps.
Bisch
QuoteOriginally posted by Andy Cooper:
Will denatured alcohol take the writing off AD shafts?
I do not know about the AD's but it will take it off of the black GoldTips.
Bisch
Bisch - How 'bout acetone and Gold Tip writing? ...Thanx
I used acetone on Gold tip and it took some of the color out of them therefore I think it must damage the integrity some what but I don't know. It did work though.
Buckskin57 - It did work to take the labeling off?
Thanx
I production of carbon tubing for bicycles acetone is used to remove the foam form, I'll continue using it to clean my arrows.
acetone to remove carbon arrow labels, naphtha (lighter fluid) to clean the fletch area.
In my earlier post when I spoke to Beman (Easton) tech support, they did not claim any structural damage to MFX shafting with Acetone but that it left a surface film which would adversely affect adhesives to the shaft. Since fletching coming off was why I was contacting them, I took him to be correct and when I re-fletched after cleaning with the 91% Isopopyl alcohol they reccomend, the fletching remained on the shafts and is there still. As an afterthought, the culprit in this case is probably the "wood grain" film applied over the carbon shaft being adversely affected.
QuoteOriginally posted by NorthernCaliforniaHunter:
I've been using it on my AD Trads to get the writing off and have had no issues whatsoever. I suppose you don't want to soak the shafts in it, but a moistened rag shouldn't penetrate the fibers. I'd say go for it.
Same experience as mine...
Been using it for sometime without any ill experiences.
I think where this got started is acetone is used to thin epoxy/polyester based finishes. When I put fiberglass over cedar plank boats we use acetone to slow the harding process so the resin soaks into the wood more. I'm not certain what kind of resin is used in the making of carbon shafts.
I just removed the labels from two dozen CE arrows in about 5 minutes. 0000 steel wool soaked in non-acetone nail polish remover (thanks Mom). I did 12 new Predator IIs lickety split. The finish on the CE Heritages was a little harder, but they still came off well. They look sharp. Now onto the fletching. That should take a while.
I have also been using it for years on carbons... AD's have never shown any adverse effects...
As to a comment above regarding not using it on Beemans about a residue... there is no residue with acetone. It evaporates and leaves verry little residue..(non oily) You are right, the residue is crap from their camo graphic junk
Comet Cleanser with Bleach was what the owner of Carbon Express recomended in a Petersons Bowhunting podcast interview. Rinse and dry with lint free cloth. Used it and it works great.
Love my I Tunes podcast even though most archery related podcasts have wheels. Still a lot of good content.