im thinking about trying to get some wood arrows and am wondering how to figure the spine i will need.id like to know how to figure out how to come to figure it out on my own so please exsplain the process to me.
thanks,
steven
Bow weight, add 5 for recurve, 5 for FF type string, 5 for each in over 28, -5 for each in under 28, 5 for each 25 gn over 125, -5 for ea 25 under, that's about it-go have some fun. The newer bows that are 3/8 past center need more and self bows with no shelf need a lot less.
my bow is 3/8" past center how much more would i need to add?
Add another 10; this gets you close, depending on actual draw length, so order a test pack of a couple of different spine shafts to check and make sure.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Bow weight, add 5 for recurve, 5 for FF type string, 5 for each in over 28, -5 for each in under 28, 5 for each 25 gn over 125, -5 for ea 25 under, that's about it-go have some fun. The newer bows that are 3/8 past center need more and self bows with no shelf need a lot less.
Now that just makes sence, but according to Stu's calculator I'm supposed to be shooting a 76# arrow, but right now my 57# RER longbow is spitting out a 29" 60# spined cedar perfectly. Tomorrow I will find out what a 29" 67# spined douglas fir arrow flies like and report back my findings.
I must have had a senior moment; 3/16 past center not 3/8!
3/16 past center add 10.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
I must have had a senior moment; 3/16 past center not 3/8!
3/16 past center add 10.
I was thinking you meant that, just was a typo. It is basically 1/2 of 11/32", and after finished dipping 3/16" is 1/2 of the arrow diameter
well my bow is actually cut to 3/8 past center. what would i need to add? (im not much of a fraction guy)
also bjorn what kind of laquor do u apply to ur arrows and how do u apply it. i went to wally world and they had about a million different choices so i just said ill wait till im sure what to get
I know you asked Bjorn, but I dip mine in a waterbased wood floor finish. My theory is that it is made to abused. My arrows hold up great till an arrant shot ends up snapping it.
how much would that run at wally world? im trying to find the best deal on stuff to save money
You can go cheap, and nickle and dime yourself all the way past spending twice as much as if you would have plunked down the amount for the proper product in the first place. In my experiences, if you go cheap, you will regret it in the very near future.
As for Wally World, I refuse to shop there, so I cannot answer your question on that.
Go to Home Depot and by the product there.
only problem is i dont have a home depot near me. ill check lowes see if they have it. do u rub yours on or do you dip ur shafts?
I dip them in a long dip tube. The product I use is Parks wood floor finish. I know it is sold at Home Depot, but not sure on where else. Best advice I can give on making arrows is to wait 24 hours after putting any product on them, be it stain, paint or clear finish. There is no point in rushing. Once again, you will regret hurrying. Arrow building is not a 50 yard sprint it is more like a full marathon. Take your time and enjoy the whole process.
I have a dozen on the drying rack right now and it is so tempting to dip a second coat on them right now-they've been sitting since about 8 am this morning-because every time a coat goes on they look so much better. But here I sit enjoying a tall glass of water and seeing how everyone else is enjoying the new year.
Lowes will have just about any stian and finish coat you will need. I was looking thursday at Lowes near my work, I like the water base stains and the wipe-on poly, it's all held up good for me. Use just enough stain to get the color you want let dry for 24hrs. then 3 coats of poly with 0000 steel wool between coats. Oh yea and have FUN.
You'll be fine with Minwax stains and Minwax Helmsman poly.Wipe on the coats or dip.Steel wool like bendbig said in between coats.Always wait 24hrs in between anything for drying and you'll be fine.Fletch with duco or fletch tape.
I much prefer oil base products to the water base. Water base is quick and easy, but not as tough as the oil base polys. Minwax Fast Dry Polyurethane is readily available and works great. Gloss is the toughest. Brush or wipe it on straight from the can; thin it a bit if you dip. Any of the oil base stains will work fine.
Bowhunter, what kind of bow are you shooting? Cut 3/8" past would not leave you much wood and I don't know of a wood risered bow being made that way these days.
i have a sammick red stag. i also have a pearson palimino .
can i use just poly and not stain them? will that effect performance?
QuoteOriginally posted by $bowhunter$:
can i use just poly and not stain them? will that effect performance?
sure if you like plain wood looking arrows, but where is the pizzazz in that? Throw a little color in there to make it "Your Arrow".
Once fletched it gets harder to tell. I can shoot 60/65 and 75/80 out of my bows and both seem to work well.
But when bareshafting only the 75/80 works and groups with the fletched arrows. (50# ACS CX)
Much of the time I stain, let it dry, and then dip, crest, and dip 2ce more. Other times I don't bother to stain or crest, most of my arrows are for hunting and I have yet to get a complaint.
$bowhunter$, I don't think your bow is 3/8 past center that is almost a half inch.
If you want to have a good starting point, download Stu's calculator!It helped me a lot. http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/. It is important to know how much center cut your bow is. Most recurves are 3/16 and most longbows are around zero, but ask your bowyer.
Don't forget to substract 1/16 for your strike plate, so 3/16 becomes 2/8.
Also take care that you know how many strands your string is, it's a lot of difference if your string is 6 or 16 strands.
Stu will elp you to get very close, but as soon as you are used to your new set-up, you have to bareshaft or papertune as the last step.
As for sealing the shafts: I only lacquer the last 10 inches, where the feathers come (like a wrap). I give it four layers to make it last longer. By doing this you will ad appr. 25 grains to the end of the shaft (important for Stu's calculator)
I treat the rest of the shaft with thung oil. After the first layer has dried I rub it with steelwol to make the shaft smooth and then give it a second layer.
bjorn i asked lancaster archery after i recieved the bow for christmas and he said it was 3/8 past center. im not sure it thats correct or not im just going by what he said.
thanks guys for all the info i think i might get the 3rivers how to dvd on making arrows to kinda guide me along.
steven
QuoteOriginally posted by Flying Dutchman:
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Don't forget to substract 1/16 for your strike plate, so 3/16 becomes 2/8.
You meant 1/8 there Dutchman.
Lots of good info guys. Thanks
Steven, I suspect the Lancaster guy fed you some bad info. String up both your bows and stand them against a wall. Look at the bows and line up the strings so they run down the center of the limbs. You will be able to see pretty close how deep the shelf is cut. For reference, the Palomino will be cut to center. Let us know what you see.
well he must be wrong. it looks exstemly close to center or a hair too the right.(right handed). will this effect my spine?
It will affect what spine you need. Go back to Bjorn's formula and that should get you pretty close. He adds 5 for the recurve, whereas I tend to add 10, but that is also assuming a hard string. Start with 10 for the Samik, 5 for the Palomino,.