Is there a standard distance used in tuning arrows to a bow? For instance...say I got a new to me bow and have begun to tune the arrows to the bow, ie length, point weight, etc., what distance should it be done at? Thanks.
The A&H tuning page says to start at 15yds then back off to 20 when getting close.
http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
This ought to get you started!
10-15 yds. Has always worked for me.
How are you tuning?
About 12 yards to start with, then fine tune at 20 yards
I paper tune at 8 feet. I broadhead tune (bring field tips to broadheads) at 13 yards and then to 20.
I don't bare shaft tune.
http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm ....Same info as above link but all together and printable without all the breaks and links.....easiest way Ive found to tune as all you need are three bare shafts and three fletched shafts, then fine tune with broadheads.
I do 10yds then 20yds
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowwild:
I paper tune at 8 feet. I broadhead tune (bring field tips to broadheads) at 13 yards and then to 20.
I don't bare shaft tune.
Paper tuning woirks great for me, too.
I start at 10 yds to make sure I hit the target and then move back to 20 yds for fine tuning.
If bare shaft tuning start at about 15 yds. Make your adjustments. When you think you are close at 15 then move back to say....25 yds. Do the same thing. Keep moving back until you are 50 or 60 yds out. When you can keep all your bare shafts within a farely tight vertical line in line with where you are aiming out to that distance.....you're tuned. With good technique your bare shafts should fly just like a fletched shaft...no fishtailing or porpoising.
In my opinion 15-25 yds is not far enough to do final bare shaft tuning. It just isn't far enough for minor spine issues to show up. But they will at 60 yds.
Brett
I shoot 5-50 yards to insure I have proper arrow flight. Shooting at 50 really helps you see your arrow flight.
I bare shaft at 10 yds first then move to 20 yds. My buddy bare shafts out to 60 yds. Takes alot more effort, and I'm not sure that there is a noticable gain.
My opinion is that if it is flying good bareshaft out to 20 yds. With Feathers you are in great shape.
I've shot fletched arrows that seemed to fly great, then taken out a bareshaft and have it fly so weak it misses the target at 20 yds.
someone told me to never bareshaft tune wood arrows but did not told me why.
Can I bareshaft tune wood arrows?
I only shoot wood and bareshaft tune all the time. If you are way off you could snap a cedar shaft shooting into a bale, that may have been the concern.
I use a formula that gets me very close, and simply check my tuning at 25 yards.
Papertuning: 5 to 6 feet
Bareshaft: as far as you shoot normally, but start with 12 yards and then work your way up. The further the distance becomes, how finer the tuning.
Remember that you have to be in good form before and be used to your bow before you start tuning. Bad shape results in poor tuning results.
When you are not experienced, papertuning is easier.
I bare shaft tune starting at 15 yards then 20 and 25.Then I double check with the BHs,up to 35.
Be careful when bareshaft tuning. If your form is off, your bareshafts will be too; and you'll begin to chase your tail.
B
QuoteBe careful when bareshaft tuning. If your form is off, your bareshafts will be too; and you'll begin to chase your tail.
This is true. But if your form [IS] good then gradually increasing the distance at which you bare shaft tune will produce well tuned arrows; bare shafts that fly beautifully with no wobble whatsoever. And...a well tuned arrow requires very little fletching when shooting broadheads.
Brett
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowwild:
I paper tune at 8 feet. I broadhead tune (bring field tips to broadheads) at 13 yards and then to 20.
I don't bare shaft tune.
Is the arrow still going through paradox at 8 ft? I don't think 8 ft will tell you anything of importance. Now if you put that paper out to 10-15 yds then you've got something.
Paper tuning at long distance has never helped me. It seems by that time the fletching has corrected any major error in flight.
Though I seldom paper tune now I do know that I can shoot bullet holes from four feet to 25.
I bare shaft tune starting at 15ish yards and continue out to thirty or so. Once I am comfortable with the bare shaft results I fletch and start hunting.
Snag, high speed photography has shown that the arrow is still oscillating a long ways down range. The oscillation isn't much tho, and doesn't mess with the hole in the paper. I usually paper tune about 6 feet, not more than 10. By 10 yards, you can't tell anything unless you are really off.
The arrow has set its flight angle/direction very quick off the bow. You have to pick it up with the paper before the fletching has a chance to start straightening out the path.
AND, if your form is off it will show up on the paper tuning as well as the bare shafting. I think both methods, done correctly get you to the exact same point.
Start close, possibly five yards and then gradualy work my way back.
Your form and level of shooting competancy will dictate how far back you may go. Seems if I tune 25 yards and back, my BH's require less if any final adjustments. Often times I may have practise sessions with just bare shafts to identify and address form issues. I recently just finished tuning an Ultra-EFOC set-up out to 25 yards. I inserted the Large 1 1/2" 3 blade 'Big Three' and they would stay consistantly on spot at 20 yards.
Another viable way to bare shaft tune is to tune at your point-on distance. Once you have tuned using this method, then you should have nailed it. It is a worthy double check to verify you have nailed it by bareshaft testing at 3 to 4 yards.
Papertuning is meant for short distances only, say 5 to 7 feet.
If you want to tune on bigger distances, then bareshafting is the way.
Yes paper tuning is made also from 3 feet in front of the point.I did that when I was shooting compounds like Chuck Adams teached.
Then I always double checked with my BHs.