i just got my new bow for christmas and i need to put a noccking point on it. ive heard of people putting it high and some put ot level. im just curious where exactly i need to place my nocking point?
thanks,
steven
It's going to vary upon bow and shooter. In the how to section there is a tutorial for an adjustable tie on that you can move. Works great. I suggest you start at about 1/8" above shoot and your arrow will tell you up or down. Usually up if needed. You'll get more answers in awhile so be patient and have fun.
Merry Christmas!
Keeping the Faith!
Magnus
I set mine 3/8" high of perpendicular (attached to string above arrow nock) and a bit loose.
If you nock an arrow above it and it flies better - move the nock point up. If not, try lowering it (I use 1/8" x 2" strips of electrical tape to make temporary fillers). Once you have a good flight crimp it fully & tightly in place.
Here is what I do. I set a nok set about where I think it should be but do not tighten it all the way. I then take a bare shaft and stand about 3-5 yards from a foam target and shoot the arrow straight into it. If the nock hits high I need to lower it until the arrow is parallel to the floor. Visa versa for a low nock. Once I get the arrow nock shooting where it needs to be I take out my bow square and measure where the nock placement needs to be. Takes all the guesswork out of it.
I shoot 21/64" diameter aluminum arrows shot off the shelf. My nocking point is 5/8" high off the shelf. I also use a split finger hunting tab; one over, two under.
As others have stated, whatever you set it at you'll have to check to make sure the arrow doesn't "porpoise -- tail up and down". The bare shaft test or paper-tuning for me at 8', shoulder level through tight newsprint with target butt 2 arrow lengths behind.
Often times when someone says their broadheads (if same weight as field points) hit higher or lower (plane) than their field points, they haven't tuned the porpoising out of their set-up.
The "book" on recurve shooting with fingers is to start 1/2" above horizontal (using a bowsquare). In fact, I start all mine at 1/2" and that is exactly where I leave it on most of my bows.
However, I know some folks who want their point of aim to be 20 yards who will contrive a set-up to produce just that. One fellow, who shoots 3-fingers under (as do I), places his nock locator 3/4" high and uses a full-length arrow (about 3 inches longer than he needs). This combo allows him to see the point of his arrow on the exact spot he wants to hit at 20 yards. Then he adjusts his aim point at shorter and longer distances. Obviously, this fellow isn't an instinctive shooter. He does this for 3-D competitions that require that his finger touch his arrow nock on every shot (can't string walk.
Bill and Bowwild about covered it.
I will add that you have to be careful lowering your nock sometimes because you can get a false high indication if it's too low. Always try higher if you are under 1/2 to 3/8 and are getting a high indication and moving it down doesn't seem to help.
On my personal bows, I've never set a nock below 1/2" regardless of what kind of bow it was. Usually about 9/16 works for me but I know a lot of guys who go close to 3/4".
I usually keep mine around 1/2" but sometimes you have to go higher with different bows. Like Dave said, I wouldn't go below 1/2".