I have a 45@28 kodiak hunter. I draw 29, maybe 29.5" any ideas on actual draw weight?
Thanks,
Brian
I have a 1973 KH in green Futurewood that is labeled 50#@28" that I draw to 30" and get 55# (measured on the club scale). Mine doesn't stack and, in fact, the tips open out nicely.
I bet mine is nearly the same vintage and color.
I'm not sure if it stacks so much as its just too much weight for me, but it sure feels like it builds fast that last inch.
I was guessing 50. I really should check.
Thanks,
Brian
If you have a bow shop anywhere near you have them put it on there scale and check the draw weight at your draw length. Chances are they will do it for free.Best way to know for sure!!
Motorhead's suggestion is a good one. I check weight on a lot of different bows, and you would be suprised how much they vary from the marked weight. I had one Kodiak Magunum that weighed in 9# more than what it was marked! That was extreme, but it is very common to be a off by 2-3# high or low.
Putting it on the scale will also allow you to measure the actual "stack". Check the weight at one inch increments starting at 26" and if it builds more per inch from 28 to 29 than it did from 26 - 27.
Many don't realize they are marked: 43 to 47 as 45, 48 to 52 as 50, 53 to 57 as 55, etc. Martin (D. Howatt) also has/had a reputation to hedge their numbers higher for the added speed.
Some bows, Ben Pearson for instance, used added "X"s as a prefix or suffix; so 45X#@28" is 46# and XX50# is 48#.
I have put 5 Bear bows on the bow scale and all 5 tested several pounds more than what was listed on the handle. The variances were from 3 to 6 pounds. I recently had one of their 55" recurves that was listed as 55# but was actually 61#. The rascals had me thinking it was a super fast bow. And that I was growing weak in my old age!
Bill