Has anyone ever made a broadhead target?
If you have a place that you don't have to move it, then a sand trap works great. If can't leave it in one place, then a big cube of syrofoam works good.
I make a wood frame out of 2x4's then put layers of carpet spaced at 2". with recurve(58#)I can penetrate 8 to 10 layers with compound(64#)and FMJ I can penetrate 14 to 16. Carpets are cut 24x36 and need a 2x2 screwed to top of carpet to sit in frame. Works for me.
PICs of the targets would help
I make mine out of multi layered soft foam (carpet flooring foam) faced with interlocking foam from Kmart or Walmart. These will withstand many many shots.
Here is one where I used sofa cusion foam between the interlocking foam panels without my cover over it.
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t33/JB59901/Traditional%20Longbow/Picture537.jpg)
the target I like for broadheads works great and its super cheap to build too.You know your phone book like the yellow pages we all have setting around our home and or office ? take your old yellow pages and make a frame around the front and back with duct tape about two wraps all the way around binding it with the tape as tight and as flat as possible.A kind of duct tape picture frame looking thing ? The duct tape yellow pages broadhead target will stop any broadhead from any bow and it lasts 100-200 shots at a cost of around 12 cents worth of duct tape.
The yellow pages are or about the correct size for a kill zone on most of the critters I hunt(deer elk bear)it makes for great praticing on kill zone size shot placement as well.Now here is the best thing of all about the yellow pages broadhead target when your done shooting it ? just toss it into the recycle been and bam make another for 12 cents.Warning this target will not work if you can not hit a phone book at the distance your praticing from bd
I buy a 4x8 sheet of 2" foam insulation. Cut it into 2'x2' squares and glue them together. I then cover the front and back with duct tape. It makes a 16" deep target and has worked great for me and costs around $25 for all the materials.
I love the warning thing. "If you can't hit the phone book..........."
I was going to say that whatever you use, be sure that you have a safe zone behind the target even more than you would for field points. Also, watch the target and arrow penetration. As the arrows start to pentrate deeper, that means you're punching out more of the target given you're using the same bow etc. At some point, they will go thru. As soon as that first broadhead poke out the back, it's time for a new target.
BTW, the carpet and phone books work great.
I made a stack of phone books a few times, so that you're shooting into the edge of the book not the cover, and that means you have about 8" depth. this works really well and the broadheads come out pretty easily.
Good luck
sam
I usually just get the "el-cheapo" bag target from wallyworld for about 25 bucks in June, shoot many broadheads at it till Jan. (end of season) then toss in dumpster as its pretty much done. I do have to patch several times using old blue tarp and ductape. Works as cover and wadded up for more filling. Unless you work somewere to get the other stuff for free, the cash thing works out about the same.....I never liked the sand as I like to shoot my actual hunting arrows and heads and the sand really plays hell with the blades. Takes forever to resharpen.
cut pieces of cardboard to fit in a cardboard box. After the shot, file throught the pieces of cardboard to find where the broadhead is. Unscrew it and remove arrow. Not the fastest to use, but its free.
I shoot from a ladder, so I just shoot into the lawn from above. Have to take time to knock the dirt out of the blades. I have a couple of blades just for this purpose.