I have some cedar arrows I want to foot to keep them from breaking at the point. I slide them in a 2514 alum arrow and they have about 3 to 5 thousands clearence. Will this work with two part epoxy and how long do the alum footing need to be. Thanks, Don
If you make it more than 4" or so you'll really effect the node points and spine of the arrow. Likely you're just making the tip longer so the arrow will snap in a different spot.
Never heard of it done, but that's how we learn. Keep us posted.
I cut my footings 3". With the insert installed that gives you aprox 2" of wood inserteded in the footing and 1" extention to the wood shaft. By using the insert inside the shaft I can use a screw-in point. Some guys on here posted that they put lead shot inside the footing to get more weight up front. I glued mine with hot melt.
I guess I should have read some more. I see in the how to section, you can foot carbon arrows, but am not sure you can do wood. When I miss sometimes, well a lot of the time, I hit something and the arrow breaks right at the point. I was hoping I could make them a little tougher. I guess I need to stop missing :D . Don
I do just what James said,Works real good.I also foot 20 diameter aluminum shafts with 2213's using hot melt .works real good and does help the arrow in strength.
The reason aluminum footing works so well with carbon is that the most common break on frontal impacts is caused by the insert being driven back into the hollow shaft,making it split.Putting the footing over the end prevents that.
Wood will be different because it isn't hollow and there is no insert to act as a wedge.I suspect,they will probably still break just behind the aluminum footing but I haven't tried it.
Thanks, it was just a thought. Don
I think it will still break just behind the point. Wood shafts break behind the point because the hard edge of the point ferrule creates a stress concentrationawhere it meets the shaft. Adding an alum sleeve behind the point is not going to move the stress point. I actually find a slightly undersized shaft to give the strongest wood shaft point junction. The smaller shaft fits inside the point ferrule and there is no stress concentration.
you COULD keep the integrity of a wood shaft looks wise yet help out that front end without footing at all.
I THINK 3 rivers sells the jig, if not you can make it easily enough to center drill your shafts and either insert say a nail (or a steel dowel after the tips been tapered) or a hardwood dowel. it would help beef up the tip section without going to the exspense of actually shooting a footed shaft and yet add nothing to the outside of your shaft. That might not only look bad, but also hinder penetration or cause problems in targets.
Just an idear.
Speaking of foots, Gary Renfro has a great cd on it. And if you dont have the power tools to do the 2 point jig...I think I gots an idear to help with a regular ole hand plane and a little elbow grease from the bamboo fly rod side of the house (grooved sole planes). Can do it without power tools though a mitre saw or an edge sander would be nice to set he jig up. Nothing you cant find at a wood working shop (highschool) and would be a one time deal. The grooved plane will keep you from tearing the wood jig up by keeping the blade up inside the plane body. You couldnt do 4pt foots but you could easily do the 2point foots with it!
The first jig is nothing more then a dowel with two different holes center drilled....again if you cant do it a woodshop/machine shop could do it quickly and cheaply. One side fits your shafts the other fits the diameter of the drill you'll need. if you're going to insert metal you'll have to play with things when to drill and taper. if you inserted a hardwood dowel I'd drill the shaft first and then turn the taper for the point. Unseen footing. Or just buy the jig LOL!
this is the deal i was talking about....I think would work, or something to this effect could be made from wood easily enough
http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=5603X