Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: kahunter on November 14, 2010, 10:12:00 PM
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Are there any secrets to keeping carbon steel from rusting? I am in the process of switching over to trad this season. I hunted in the rain last week and had a quiver full of rust the next day! Most of my hunting days tend to be bad weather so I either need to figure out how to keep the rust away or find some good (cheap) stainless steel options.
Thanks.
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Coat them with vegetable oil. Then clean them and coat them again when you get home.
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Dip your broad heads in 90 weight gear oil. If that is not to your liking or you don't have gear oil handy bow string wax. Either will work and the string wax doesn't smell.
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Silicone spray, a little wax, or vaseline lightly applied. vegetable spray and keep heads covered as much as possible with some type of waterproof cover.
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just what Randy said. then at least ya wont have to add the oil when cooking the back straps. :campfire:
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I have dipped mine in melted paraffin wax.
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Warm BH dipped in vaseline or cooking oil.
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Sounds simple enough. I'll have to give it a try.
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Wire brush them [I've used a fine wire wheel on my stationary grinder ...but be careful as it may try and grab the broadhead... I hold with pliers] and coat with a can of flat black or OD green spray paint.. Re-sharpen and keep the edge protected with veg. oil, vasoline, or chap stick while in the field :thumbsup:
Gene
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After you get them sharp take chap stick to them. Comes in an easy to use travel pack that is tiny enough to haul into the field. Also, just part of hunting with carbon heads and it is best to keep an eye on the edges throughout the season regardless of weather conditions.
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I use mineral oil. Someone here on trad gang posted a tip last year about using veg. or mineral oil in your quiver foam. It works great.
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I would use INOX M3 machine oil as it is food grade or other lubricant oils.
Also, I have heard that vaseline has some coagulative properties so I would never use that.
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I use Food grade silicone (has no smell) and on my practice heads I have spray painted them with appliance epoxy paint(the stuff that your stove is painted with Ace hardware sells it).They will not rust and you can still sharpen them.
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I spray my hood foam with PAM and mine stay pretty nice. You can remove the rust pretty easiyl with 0000 steel wool.
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I use mineral oil on mine & so far they haven't started to rust.
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I like to use a Sharpie marker. Cover the sharpened edges, it protects until the next time you need to check the edges or touch-up.
Also a cold bluing pen or dye, and even some Feibings leather dye would work.
Don't like to use the oils, vaseline, or such, because of the dirt it attracts. And messy!
As for cleaning the rust off, one of those toothbrush style wire brushs work good. And resharpening should clean up the rust.
Welcome to the fun side of archey, and good shootin too ya!
Steve
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The other thing that helps is to heat them when you come in. They don't have to get flat out wet to rust, temp. changes create condensation.
Everything these guys said works great, but I also blow dry them when home for the night.
If I have time that is.......
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Somehow, moisture must have gotten into your quiver hood/foam. Dry it out well and put a little mineral oil in where the blades go. Coat the edges lightly when you get them sharp.
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WD-40, in the hood and on the heads. The carrier will evaporate and leave no smell, but will still protect the steel.
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Boiled Linseed Oil.........
Folks used to put it on shovels, hoes, picks and mattocks......
My Brother-in-law says it's THE STUFF for coating his snow blade during the off season, and when snow removal time comes he says the snow slides right off for the first day or two.
Boiled Linseed oil will dry after a few days and won't be so sticky. I usually sharpen my heads soon as I buy them, or just after season is over, and coat them with BLO. Then, they're usually rust free and non- oily for the whole season.....
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chap stick, lightly applied to edge.
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As earlier stated pour mineral oil on the foam insert inside your quiver cover. Don't overdo it.Let it absorb overnite. Rub a little on each broadhead and slide them into the quiver foam. You should be good to go. I also rubbed some mineral oil on my rawhide Selway bow quiver. Really cleaned it up and added life to an older quiver. By the way, I purchased a nice side bottle of mineral oil for a buck 75 at my local grocery store. Cheap and not hard to find.I'm very pleased with its performance. :thumbsup:
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Depending on how bad the rust is. If established u can dip in or brush on rust converter, phosphoric acid. This way it stops the process of oxidization then u can work on them at u’r leisure. If wishing to work immediately it should be left for about 1/2 -1hr. I leave 24hrs. It will remain thus with a whitish powder coat for a few mths if kept dry. Next clean back to metal with a wire wheel on an bench grinder, being mindful of safety in both the grabbing ability of the wheel and the dust coming off. Repeat the dip process if dark shadows hint of more deeper rust. Once clean resharpen and spray with inox. Another tip from Dr Ashby, edited ( Heat + high humidity = rust on broadheads, so be sure to check the sharpness frequently and keep them touched up at least daily. I found that spraying the broadheads with INOX worked better than anything else I've tried. INOX is a spray lubricant made in Canada Not only does INOX do a great job in inhibiting rust on the BH edges, it's an anitcoagulant too! Works much better than things like WD-40 or spray silicone. Vasaline is a coagulant, so not as desirable on your broadheads, especially on a marginal hit.)
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Ditto for the boiled linseed oil. I'm one of the folks who still use it on my garden implements AND broadheads....Phil
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Used to use chapstick. Worked great but it is a coagulate (spelling). Mineral oil now. Sometimes vegetable oil but it just feels wrong. Relying on vegetable oil to get a deer, really?
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It shouldn't just be called String wax,it works great on Broadheads and stands up way better than Vasaline.
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Wow! One of these tips ought to work for sure. I like the idea of putting oil in the quiver foam. Thanks again, guys.
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I've used vaseline for decades but recently started using a gun rust preventative and storage agent called RIG. I use it because I have it but it can be purchased from Brownells.