Would you tell me what you think of this?
In my take down bows I have always used metal bushings in the limb holes. I like the Bezel style, but have never liked the loose Bezel and plastic washer lying on top of the limb.
Now I have had an advanced metal work shop make a bezel and bushing in one piece, they also made small bushings for the alignment pin holes.
The material is brass.What you think, good or bad? Bue--.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/buemaker/bezel3.jpg)
VERY GOOD! Those would be just the ticket for Warf bows too...
Oddbjorn,
Those look VERY nice!
And Cutty is right--if those brass bezels are 3/8" on the outside where they go thru the limb, they would be perfect for ILF limb bushings!
Nice idea and good work from the fab' shop!
Marc
Only one way to be sure though, time for you to build a bow I'd say. Those are sharp looking.
Looks good to me. I will me more than happy to extensivly test one of them for you!!!
I had a 1990 model Bighorn once that had a similar limb bolt arangement.
Eric is correct Bighorn used a similar set up on their limb bolt bezels for a few years, seemed like a very good system.
Tater
Border bows also uses a simular system. The bezel extends thru the limb and acts as one of the pins. They uses a pin also which fits into a aluminum bushing in the limb, but their bushing is sloted, it only control side to side movement. Were as the bezel controls limb placement on the riser. Pictures explain better then my words.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/JPStangs/DSCN3265.jpg)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/JPStangs/DSCN3264.jpg)
The way Border does it is probably a good idea, by elongating the hole in the alignment bushing.
That gives more room for error in the spacing of the holes lenghtwise. Dan Quillan also did it that way in his takedown bows,but without any metal bushing.
Bue--.