I did a few searches on this and was surprised to not find anything...
Thinking of having a 60" 45# @28" forward handle r/d fiberglass back and belly with wood core longbow made.
I'm not concerned with looks or color.
Only the physical characteristics (shock, speed, durability etc...)
The standard choices of limb woods for this bow are Osage, rock maple, walnut, & Red elm.
Walnut appeals to me since it's lighter and more elastic (density = .55 and mod elast. = 1.68)
I know osage is the age old wood of choice.
I'm thinking it might have more hand shock and slower speeds due to it's weight when compared to the other choices. (den .85, Mod elast. 1.34 )
rock/sugar maple works. I know that. Just don't know how it compares.Most elastic (den=.63 Mod of elas. 1.83)
Red/slippery elm I find interesting. (dens=.57 mod of elas= 1.54)
What I don't know is how well any of these woods hold up.
I also don't know what the lam thickness would have to be on any of these woods.
Meaning, a wood that is half the density but needs 4 times more wood to get to the draw weight would make a limb that actually weighs more.
Any help would really be appreciated.
Thank you
one of the best lams for limbs is actualy bamboo.I don't know all of the caracterisrics but it make for super tought, fast and quiet limbs.
just my $0.02
I feel you have 2 choices, Bamboo or Bamboo, that's just my opinion!!!
It is a wise thing to put some feelers but keep in mind that your bowyer should have some very solid information. The more he gets to understand your needs and desires, the more likely he will be able to deliver what you both want and need.
Bamboo has a LOT of good characteristics.
Many many many great bows have been made with it.
However I've read it often "changes" over time in tiller and likes to twist.
If this is true that sorta scares me as I want a bow that has the best chance of lasting.
I'm a big fan of red elm myself.
Actionboo (laminated bamboo) eliminates much of what you are concerned with. Actionwood (laminated maple) is another good choice. I think the old Bear, Pearson, and Shakespeare bows were almost always maple cored. It's a good bow wood that will last a lifetime with some care.
I also like red elm. I have a Mahaska (slight r/d) longbow in red elm. It is a bit shocky, but that may be the design more than the material.
I agree with Friend. Your bowyer should be able to answer your questions and match the bow to your desires. If not, maybe check with other bowyers.
all of my james parker bows have lam. bamboo as a core and are hard to beat.
This is a very informative Thread on limb woods.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=040851;p=1
Cool thread thanks!
Bamboo or Yew
Most bowyers state that different core woods make a little difference in the performances.Actionwood(laminated maple)is a great choice that became negleted because it wasn't too pretty beneath the clear glass;this before they started to veneer the main core.
On this days most people like the bamboo the most,my older bamboo cored limbs proved to be very tough after 16 year of hard use and many dry fire.
All are decent choices. I would stay away from osage in the limbs. Looks good on risers but not a good choice in my opinion for either the limb core or limb veneers.
With the choices presented I would go for either maple or walnut, toss up between those, then the red elm, and just forget about the osage.
I'm shooting a 1964 Bear Kodiak and a 1963 Kodiak Special - both have plain old maple limbs under fiberglass. The bows shoot, pound for pound, as fast as any of the "modern" recurves. Forty six and forty seven year old bows!
For my money, it's maple.
Bill
QuoteOriginally posted by michigan bill:
I'm shooting a 1964 Bear Kodiak and a 1963 Kodiak Special - both have plain old maple limbs under fiberglass. The bows shoot, pound for pound, as fast as any of the "modern" recurves. Forty six and forty seven year old bows!
For my money, it's maple.
Bill
Gotta say that I agree with you as I shoot a 1964 Polar and a 1963 KS and they are both great to shoot. Of course being 66 inches long helps too.
Having said that I shot a Chek-Mate Hunter III with yew limbs last week. Even though it was only a sixty inch bow and it stacked at my 30 inch draw length it still felt fantastic. I could handle about ten pounds greater actual draw weight than I have ever shot before with very little compression of form.
DDave
I paid too much for my KS and I still have less money invested in these two bows than it would take to buy a brand new Martin X200. How do we get that across to people getting involved in traditional archery for the first time?
DDave
I would pick from Bamboo, Bamboo or maybe Bamboo :bigsmyl:
I Lot of guys like elm, and some like yew; still others like actionwood.
So I guess it is just up to you.
Yew or Osage, you know they work and you know you can trust them.
I think youjr splittin hairs. Although I know you will get a tad more handshock out of osage, and I believe you got your bamboo info from someone who has a hard time finding the boo.
bigjim
last week a very experienced bowyer told me this.... limbs are like people, the same but always a little different.
how true that is!!!
They used maple for target limbs for many years and on about every bow made in general for years. A proven wood core.
Bamboo is great but does not like to stretch or compress. So its great on the belly compression side where a bow gets its power and could be argued not the best on the back tension side where it is not generating any power but still giving resistance. My next bow will have bamboo limb core with a maple layer on its back. I have shot enough bows to know that it does matter how the cores are stacked and with what in a bow limb.
The differences are subtle in good bows but they are there.
Regarding that it does not matter what is in a limb or how the lambs work together, I disagree. Jack Howard was very fussy about his limb cores and the result is considered one of the best performing bows ever made.
Joshua
And those Jack Howard bows have maple cores. Most competitive flight bows were also made with maple cores and they are some of the most critical and stressed bows made. Maple doesn't look like much under clear glass, but under solid color glass it is one of the best cores.
I have used red elm and find it excellent for durability, performance and looks.
The design has way more to do with how you are going to like the characteristics than your wood choices in a laminated bow. You need to focus on picking the right bowyer and let him pick the core lams.
Hard Maple is going to give you one of the best in preformance (FPS). Kinda plain but stain can help. It is not as smooth as Bamboo, but I know it is quicker, 1-3 FPS
Maple, hickory or red elm are great recurve cores. Actionboo all the way in my longbows unless I use foam. You will get a little feel of the shot with maple that you do not get with actionboo but maple is faster and much tougher .Thats my story and I'm sticking to it. God Bless you all and have a wonderful day. Steve
Just because most people build their houses out of bricks doesn't make them better than stones, and just because most bowyer use maple action wood or bamboo doesn't make it better than Yew or Osage.
Id go with something that has been used for thousands of years rather than 50 years.
Do not overlook walnut as a core wood, it will suprise you, also wenge. Yeah, I now most people have not heard this, but ask Bill Howland about core woods.
Walnut is a very good core, Wenge is a little heavy. I have used both and would take walnut over the wenge