1. My recurve has a string nockset on it now. Would it be a + or - if I replaced with a brass nock?
2. Is there a huge difference between using 145gr or 125gr fp/bh's? I have 100gr brass inserts in my arrows now! Very hard to find 145gr anything in a pinch.
Thanks in advance!
The nock point placement shouldnt change and I cant tell between 125 & 145 gr w/ my hunitng bows at hunting range.
1. I never use brass nocks anymore. They are a pain to adjust, they wear my tab, and they can wear the string under the serving. I've had strings break at the brass nockset, never with a string nockset. The only + I can think of to a brass set is that once you know where you want it, it will usually stay put.
2. Probably not. A lot depends on your bow. If it is cut to center, you probably won't notice much difference, especially if you are using carbon shafts. Carbon seems to react more to length than to point weight. I don't think 20 grains will make or break your setup unless you are really on the edge with your tune.
Ditto 30Coupe
Thanks. Just was worried about the string nock moving and such.
I new so bear with me. What does cut to center mean? My recurve is a Sarrels Puma 58" 50# @ 28" if that tells you anything.
I'm shooting Beman ICS BowHunter 500's with the 100gr insert and 5" feathers. These are the arrows Bob said the bow seemed to like.
I'm not sure about that bow, but I'd guess it is cut to center. That means the riser is cut so that the string aligns with the sideplate. The diameter of the arrow can also affect it, but to a lesser degree.
If you are worried about the nockset moving, put a dab of superglue on it after you get it where you want it. You'll have to cut it off!
I shoot the same arrow. I use the standard insert, but buy glue on broadheads and use weighted adapters. My arrows are cut 28 1/2", I have broadheads in the 225 to 235 grain range (including the adapter) and they fly like darts out of my Orion. I add 1/8" rope on the inside to get the overall weight up to where I like it (about 10 grains per pound of draw weight).
You should have about 465 grains total with 125 grain heads (9.3 grains per pound) or 485 grains with 145 grain heads (9.7 gpp). There will be some variation depending on the length of the shaft (I think they weigh about 7.3 grains per inch). Either one will do the trick on deer with a good sharp broadhead. With my 46# Kanati, I didn't use the rope, so my setup was about 505 grains total. It went through a nice buck at 22 yards as quick as a sheet of paper! I was using a Zwickey Delta two blade. The buck went down in sight.
BTW: I like the adapters better than the inserts because it moves the weight forward and improves FOC (front of center). That aids in penetration. I've used the brass inserts too, and they do work. The most important things are that your arrows are tuned to shoot well from YOUR bow, your broadheads are wicked sharp, and you put the arrow in the correct spot.
Good luck! Hope this helps. I like your choice of arrow! ;)
Here is my setup for my Orion.
I dropped the broadhead weight a bit by going with a 75 grain adapter because these shafts are a tough weak out of this bow and I have them cut as short as I can get by with. They still give me good FOC and plenty of weight, and they shoot like darts!
FOC
ARROW length 28.5
shaft+feathers+nock wt 240
separate insert weight? 30
rope weight/tube weight 60
adapter weight? 75
point weight 135
total arrow weight 540
balance length 21.12
FOC % 24.11
GPP
draw wt 53
arrow wt 540
GPP 10.19
What are the adapters you are referring to? How do you determine FOC? Is it the same for as a wheel bow?
You can take a look at the adapters here:
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Broadheads+Points+Inserts+%26+Adapters_c57_s47_p0_cat.html
Send me a PM (private message) with your email address and I'll send you an FOC calculator in Excel. It's the easy way to figure it and it gives instructions. If you have other questions, I'll try to help.
I don't know squat about wheel bows...sorry...well, a little I guess... :biglaugh:
Tie-on your string nock w/dental floss after adjusting fistmele. *New strings should fully stretch in 24 hours. Tune bow/arrows. Once surely located, dab w/Elmers at the ends so it won't move. Build it up enough w/2 separate wraps (maybe or maybe no need). Brass nocks are convenient but will disturb your glove or tab. Adding weight is slightly different for alums, woods, & carbon?
QuoteOriginally posted by 30coupe:
You can take a look at the adapters here:
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Broadheads+Points+Inserts+%26+Adapters_c57_s47_p0_cat.html
Send me a PM (private message) with your email address and I'll send you an FOC calculator in Excel. It's the easy way to figure it and it gives instructions. If you have other questions, I'll try to help.
I don't know squat about wheel bows...sorry...well, a little I guess... :biglaugh:
Thanks....sent you a PM. What about weight tubes over inserts or adapters for future arrows. I figured mine to be at 471gr for 29", inserts, wraps/fletch, nock and fp/bh!
I shoot 145 gr. field points but use the 150 gr. two blade magnus stingers.
I use both weight tubes (actually just 1/8" rope because I had some and it fit)and adapters. I want to get as much weight forward as I can and still end up about 10 gpp. The rope doesn't seem to affect the spine, so I put it in after I have the combination I want up front. I also push a piece of tight fitting closed cell foam in behind the rope and tamp everything to the front. That increases FOC and also keeps the rope from making the arrows buzz in the quiver when I shoot.
You'll find it is a lot of trial and error before you are completely satisfied, but I'm a tinkerer anyway, so I don't mind. I sent you an email with the calculator and some info.
If you are at 471, that's 9.42 gpp. That would work and will shoot through Texas whitetails easily unless you hit the shoulder.
Russ
I use a piece of white medical tape torn to be ~1/8" wide as a nocking point while tuning, then go to dental floss...don't like the brass nocking points!! The tape is easy on, easy off, and easy to move while adjusting things.
Russ,
Looking at the link you sent for the adapters. Do they fit inside the shaft like regular inserts or do you put in the insert and screw the adapter into it?
Also, it 10gpp just a general preference or a good rule of thumb?
Back up for a little more help!