I've never shot a wood arrow & I've had the itch to try'em.
I was looking at the 3R pre finished shafts. With carbon or aluminum I buy the right weight shafts then start shooting them full length and shorten them until I get perfect flight. Is that how it is done with wood shafts? I have always avoided them because I like the convienence of the inserts & screw in tips that you get with carbon or aluminum. Just wondering how some of you folks go about fine tuning wood arrows.
Same way; cut if too soft or go to lighter point. If too stiff go to a heavier point. A test pack is a good starting point.
Don, you first start with bow type, poundage, draw length,(and more)..I guess you know that.. then some one can reccomend a spine wieght and length, and grain wieght..now that would be a starting point..it would be best to have some one bring an assortment of test arrows in various spine and length for you to shoot.. but that is mostly unlikely, unless you have a decent fletcher near by.. soooo it is trial and error..and as said a test kit is a good option.. you can get into bare shafting..and paper testing to see proper flight..(I have early in my trad journey)but it is something I found to be a process that YOU will need to go through yourself and make changes as you change to different bows..I would take the reccomendation of a fletcher and start shooting..Oh and you can get adapters for your screw in points and broadheads..GOOD LUCK!! (was that a long story?)
Shawn... :banghead:
thanks guys!
Check out the possiblity of buying a test kit.
Fletcher here made me one up in various spines that worked out well.
Woods are natural beautys limited only by your imagination & worth the extra time to us shooters. Never had tuning probs not quickly fixed w/brace or nock adjustment. Get spined, whack 'em an inch or so over, mount points (BH's & practice & judo), bare shaft, adjust, fletch & confirm, hunt.
Remember keep the eyes up and test shoot every arrow. You can start out with parallels, but tapered cedars, so long as they are not under spined, are a very forgiving and accurate shaft.
When you buy a wood arrow shaft at a specific spine weight(50#-55#, etc), that value is for the finished arrow cut to 28" with a 125gr point. For each inch over 28" you can subtract 5# of spine weight. For heads heavier than 125 gr you can reduce the spine also but I'm not sure of that value. The opposite is true for arrows cut under 28" and/or with less than 125gr points.