I recently moved to a 3 blade broadhead. Snuffer 145 ; 160 and the WW Standard Glue-ons.
My old 2 blade magnus broadheads were never shaving sharp, but they were almost there. Have had full pass-throughs on the three deer I have taken thus far with the 2-blades.
But now moving to a three blade I have been searching this sight, and researching everything I can on how to get a snuffer or WW shaving sharp. I can get both broadheads to the point where with medium to light pressure on my arm, and a swiping motion, I can have all the hair cut of my arm... So I call that shaving sharp...
I cannot however get them hair popping sharp. Here is my process everything is done with the broadhead mounted on a small piece of arrow, held free hand, and the sharpening tool on the other hand:
Bastard File: Medium to Hard strokes - 10 per side - 9 per side - all the way down to 1
Bastard File: Medium to light strokes - 10 per ; 9 per ; down to 1 per.
Jewelstyk 1,000 grit: Light strokes - 10 per ; 9 per ; down to 1.
Cardboard: light strokes - 10 per ; 9 per ; down to 1.
At this point, the head is shining, and will shave hair... but it seems I can't get them to the next level.
Am I being too anal? Are these broadheads for as big as the snuffers are okay at the level I am at? Or should I keep striving for the next plataeu?
Thanks guys.
I could never really even get my woodsmans shaving sharp, but several ppl on here have told my that shaving sharp for them is relatively unecessary for whitetail hunting. I now just use a file and leave them at that.
I have been shooting WW heads the last several years and have always been able to get mine shaving sharp, just like yours.
I used to be the same as you about being anal, with the sharpening.
I do the same with the file and jewel stick and let um fly.
To be honest I think you'll be just fine with the broadheads the way you have them. I sharpen all of my Phoenix broadheads with a file, then strop them on leather. They come out wicked sharp for hunting. I made a little video for another Tradgang member to show how I sharpen them and how sharp they can get. I do have the advantage of working off a sharper angle though ;)
Here's a link to the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtJ0nqJz6mM
At the speed at which your arrow will be traveling through your quarry, if they will shave hair off of your arms, they will be deadly. I say you should just go hunt with them.
The only thing I have that is Hair popping sharp is My straight Razor. My 160 snuffers are shaving sharp.
I use razorcaps and WW. Finally got them shaving this year. Permanent marker is the key-along with a magnifying glass. Color with marker, run them on the file for a few strokes, then examine with the glass. You will see where the high/low spots from any marker residue left. I had to really pressure the razorcaps on the mill file to make the grind uniform- before I began to see results. My final step was using a lansky fine diamond stone to polish. Keep at it- the "holy grail" isn't far off for ya!
Thanks guys!
I read about the "shaving hair" thing too much, just means you have over filed the angle and created a weak edge.
I think you are fine. I use a DMT Diamond Bench stone and that works really well too.
If you are cutting hair off your arm you are fine.
I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but I think some guys exagerate the "hair poppin" thing a bit....especially on 3 blade heads. I run mine across some rubber bands. If it cuts them, I'm good to go.
I get my Razorcaps hair popping sharp. When new I start off with a DMT very coarse stone (Black) and I pull them from back to front one stroke, flip to two more blades, do it again for the next two. I do this for a count of 30 or 10 strokes per two blades. (I think it is important to alternate two blaldes, then flip to two more, etc.) I will repeat this 30 stroke process until all blades are uniformly rough sharp....sort of burr like. That way I know that I have all the edges at a uniform cross section. Then I move onto the DMT coarse stone (Blue) and repeat the process. I will repeat the process until all blades feel uniformly very sharp. Then I proceed to the fine DMT (Red) and continue the same 30 stroke process. As I go to finer and finer grits I use less and less pressure. Finally, I use a round ceramic hone and repeat the process. I lay the round stone on my left leg/knee and the shaft of the arrow rests on my right leg. I then repeat the 30 stroke process using only whatever weight the shaft puts on the blades. For what it's worth I really like the steel in the Razorcaps. As I said the edge is hair popping and it holds the edge very well. The only thing I need to do after this is to touch them up using the last two steps unless a head is shot into the ground....then it is back to step one with the Black DMT.