I decided to get some Howard Hill broadheads this year but despite all efforts and gizmos used I can't get them as sharp as I think they ought to be. May have to go back to my former broadheads. Any inside tips? I've tried everything I can think of and Googled myself into a stupor....!
Use a small file and file from the rear to the front.They will only get a course saw type edge.That is plenty to take game.The steel is harder on the Hills.
Huntryx,
Had the same experience. Gave up
Stick
I sharpen surgical instruments & can't get HH Bh's hair shaving w/o too much work.
Start by sharpening towards the tip. In the fine stone or diamond hone stages file towards the back of the head. Then hit them with a muslin wheel on a bench grinder or polisher with fine polish on the wheel for a quick pass or two to mirror the finish. Wallah! razor sharp. I had a simliar problem with the Grizzly heads.
Huntryx,
I've been using the Hills for a long time and I start out with an 8" single cut file and finish with a 6" and soft strokes from back to front. If you are filing the aluminum ferrule than you have the correct angle. Good luck.
Grouse
I think all most all sharpening problems on any broadhead is because the operator is using too much pressure. I also believe the rest of the problems are because a person using sharpening gizmos think its taking too long to get sharp. Those gizmos rarely match a bevel and it takes a long time to cut down the material. Ragnaroks method is the way to go, although I use a a strop with a rounded surface with black buffing compound to get my blades sharp rather than a buffer.
This works very well if you haven't already tried it.
RADA knife sharpener-wheelie sharpener (http://www.radamfg.com/Product.asp?SRCH_CATEGORY=Cat06&SRCH_ID=R119)
Buy another kind of broadhead :laughing:
Go to www.kmesharp.com (http://www.kmesharp.com) they sell broadhead sharpning kits and work awesome to hold the head at a perfect angle. Only work on 2 blade heads, so your in luck! DK.
Huntryx
sent you a PM
I sharpen mine with a 10" single cut bastard file, by laying the file on a work bench, handle away, then set the head pointed straight down the file, maintain the same bevel, very important, and push the blade into the file, using light pressure. Rotate from one side to the next. If you keep the same bevel, you will soon have a blade with a burr, that can be removed by stroping on the back side of a leather belt. Once the burr is removed, you can use a 6" file, and draw the edge of the file, from the center of the head to the outter edge and from back to front in one motion. Done very lightly a couple times puts a fine serrated edge on this head, that will cut through a leather belt easily.
I am sure the KME Knife sharpener will do a superb job on this head, as well as some of the others methods. They might even be sharper, but I only need to carry one file in the field for a variety of heads.
The most important thing is to maintain the same bevel; if you use a file and file the edge the normal way, it is hard to maintain the bevel, the file rocks over the blade, rounds the bevel and leaves a dull blade. That is the advantage of the KME Knife sharpener for this style head, it will maintain the bevel on the concaved head, or a knife blade. Flat blades are even easier to sharpen, the way I have described.