i'm a little confused right now.i shot my new griffin yesterday and wanted to try my axis 300's off it just to see how they'd fly.i wasnt expecting much because these arrows have 2" blazer vanes (bought'em that way)and not feathers.these things fly like darts.i even did a powder test and am not getting enough contact on the shelf to lose any sleep over.i couldnt believe how good they flew.grouped great the whole nine yards.anybody else have this experience? i'm still planning on using feathers but maybe on a rain soaked hunt they could come in handy. :dunno: :dunno: :dunno:
Were you shooting field points or broadheads?
field points.b-heads will fly the same with blazervanes.they were designed for b-heads i do believe.
If your arrows are spined correctly, you really don't need much fletching. Broadheads can change everything. Bill
Stick with what works.Double check it and if you are satysfied well use them on rainy days,that simple.
i'm gonna toss a b-head on and see what happens
I am shooting blazer vanes off all my Bob Lee bows, which tend to like a higher nocking point. My theory is that the vanes are so short the paradox pushes the arrow away from the shelf before they can make contact. Whatever--they shoot great. And no problems in the rain. :scared:
Let us know how the broadheads fly.
What weight are you shooting and what are the Stats on your arrow, length and point weight. An Axis 300 is a very stiff shaft. Seems if it is really stiff you could clear the riser based on how the arrow bends around the bow. I have had this happen before. Not sure if that is what is happening with you or not.
i just shot three shots same arrow with a 150gr snuffer...i am stumped..they flew perfectly not a bad movement at all that i could see.
ferret...yes they are stiff but they seem to be flying great.they are 31" arrows so that loosens them up a bit.shootin 50 pounds at 29 1/2 draw.whatever it is i'll accept it and shoot the hell out of 'em ...lol...
Yes larry I don't understand a 300 is very stiff out of your 45#? bow.How long are those arrows and how many grs have you on front?
If it works....... :dunno:
Larry, what do you have your nock set at? Just doesn't seem right does it?
snag...nock is higher than i normally run it.i just hadnt moved it down yet.i twisted the string up to get the brace to 7 1/2.i will measure the nock.i cant see moving the nock though as i am grouping like a dam olympic shooter with this baby.
Hey it is not a suggested set up but if they work go with em.....why not.
wow....the nock is almost 7/8"...thats crazy.
300's are spined to like #70 pound bow.i really dont get it but like said several times,if it works it works. :dunno:
i truly believe there is a magical combination of several things goin on here to make it work.griffins are very fast(more energy).the draw length provides more of a power stroke and the arrow is bending just right to allow the 2" blazer vane clearance.only thing i can figure.
If they meet your own requirements for proper flight, then shoot them. Many, many variables affect what is going on with a set-up. Very similar bows with similar draw weight and seemingly identical shelves may tune the same arrows totally different. Your own barshafting and BH validation are plenty of justification. Many times I feel who ever delivers the most effective response becomes gospel when, in fact, it may only be a well delivered rationalization or guess.
The bottom line is we must at some point perform our own validation and have faith.
Its rare when things come together like that, so go with it. I shoot a higher nock point than I need, for some of the reasons mentioned. Its just flat out more forgiving for me.
the way i'm shootin this bow i wont be changing a thing.i'm smackin arrows together almost every shot.groups are real tight.i think i'll video this to show you guys.gotta love it when things just fall into place. :D :D
Nope, I think you're just confused! :laughing: Send me a PM of that bow braced. I liked the looks of your last one.
(http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/elkherder/new%20griffin/griffin451.jpg)
here it is tw
strike one
Gotta shoot that one! I like the looks of the bow as a whole. Good looking limb veneers. :thumbsup:
heres the best i could do right now.this is shootin through my apt,12 yds to spare room.
(http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/elkherder/video%20gr/th_griffin451shootin300s.jpg) (http://s711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/elkherder/video%20gr/?action=view¤t=griffin451shootin300s.mp4)
click on pic to see video.as you can see my first arrow was a little high but i kept shootin at it anyway.very tight grouping with these vanes and an overspined arrow.go figure eh.
That bow is a beauty. Looks like you got a big win with the arrow fit too, some bows just like more spine and a higher nock.
thanks bjorn
I'd almost bet it's your high nocking point that is allowing you to shoot those arrows well.
Several years ago there was a fella building really fast bows named Bill Matlock. His bows were called Predator bows or Matlock Predator but I don't believe he's around any more and the current Predator bow company may or may not be anything related.
Anyway, he was a bit like O.L. Adcock in that he did a lot of testing to squeak out a couple of fps here, a couple there and pretty soon had some real fast bows. Very knowledgable fella. He came to the United Bowhunters of Missouri Rendezvous several times and one year put on a seminar about bow tuning. The main thing I recall was that he stressed starting real high with your nock point and working down when tuning rather than starting low and working up like most people. He'd start at about an inch or more high and often got great flight long before you would think possible. In fact, he got such good flight with high nock points he started to experiment with various spines from multiple bows and found that for some reason a nock point of around 3/4" to 1" was very forgiving of spine. In his demo, he shot the same arrow out of bows from about 35# to 65# and showed good flght and accuracy.
Personally, I've always stayed around 1/2" to 9/16" but I always remembered Bill and his high nock points. This was close to 10 years ago or so. I'm not certain but I don't know if he's still alive. I believe I recall something about him being in bad health not long after and I never hear about his bows any more.
makes sense then.if i move it down to where i normally have it i'll lose the shootability of these arrows...oh well..guess thats that.makes sense to me,thanks dave.
Sounds like you've got a late "wet" season setup and a regular season setup figured out with the bow. What is the height of those Blazers?
I think Dave Bulla has it. There was an article in an old TBM about shooting vanes off the shelf by raising the nock point. I remember reading it an thinking I might tie on a nock higher just for those wet days, and keeping an arrow or two with vanes handy. My Samick recurve also shoots vanes perfectly from the same nock point as my feathers. I expect the paradox is causing it to clear the shelf.
david...they are just a bit over a half inch at the highest point
Might have something here Larry. When hunting in Oregon those rainy days are tough on feather fletching.
Well that is plain cool, definately keep 4 or 5 for a rainy day.
Could just be a real over stiff arrow running off the riser and throwing the back of the arrow clear of everything. The back being thrown out offsets the stiff shooting start of the point flight. Basically a false tune vs. a false weak. I have done this with bows and they shot great as long as I didn't get too sloppy with the form. Who is to say that is not just fine? You could try less point weight to see if it gets (false) weaker or try more point weight to see if it act stiffer as it moves from false tune or false weak to stiff.
Hvae you shot them at 25-30 yards? 12 yards can fool ya....been there done that.
Great post, I'll have to give the high nock point a try. Thanks, Ward