Posted this in the Shooting Forum, but no responses.
Arrow nock appears to be kicking right out of the bow, but is left of point when stuck in target. I shoot right handed. Good groups otherwise. Arrows too stiff?
Maybe your side plate is worn and causing erratic arrow flight.
Just a guess I really don't know. Be patient the smart folks will chime in later I'm sure.
Magnus
Try shooting off of an elevated rest if you're shooting off the shelf. I'd say either it's too stiff an arrow or interference/shelf contact. Hope this helps.
Ward
Bare shafting is great way to tune your bow.
There are numerous variables and many possible contributors could be the issue. There may be some on TG that may help if you will provide the following information. Provide as much information you can.
List your bow model:
Strike plate position:
Drw Wt rating:
Your actual draw length:
Type of shaft and model:
shaft length(throat of nock to BOP):
Insert Wt:
Point wt:
List your bow model: Martin Jaguar
Strike plate position:+.25
Drw Wt rating:45@28"
Your actual draw length:28"
Type of shaft and model:GT 55/75
shaft length(throat of nock to BOP):30.5
Insert Wt:15
Point wt:200
Using a springy rest and shooting split fingered. I'm trying to get a EFOC arrow. I cant the bow to about 1 o'clock. Thanks to all for you input! :notworthy:
Your shaft may be little week.
1. Try a 150 -175 grain point.
or
2. May need to cut 1/2-3/4 inch off of shaft.
I agree with Friend. Bare shafting is the way to go.
According to this...
http://heilakka.com/stumiller/
...you are stiff. If you can figure out a way to get 290 up front, like a 165 gr glue-on head on a 125gr steel adapter, you should be closer.
And Friend is right... you should definitely bareshaft.
I can rig a 100 gr brass insert, and 200 gr point...will make them up tonight and get back to you, Thanks Everyone!!
If your slide plate position is +.25, the you are way too stiff and the 100 grain insert should get you in the ball park.
Ok, got the 100gr inserts, 200gr field tips, and bare shaft and fletched are grouping together BUT nock end of fletched still left, while bareshaft nock end are wayyyyyyy right...What now?
When you shoot your bare shafts how far are you shooting
shooting from about 12 yds
I think you need more weight up front, or switch to a 35/55, a 55/75 is pretty stiff for a 45# bow.
QuoteOriginally posted by slivrslingr:
I think you need more weight up front, or switch to a 35/55, a 55/75 is pretty stiff for a 45# bow.
What he said. I shoot about the same set up as yours and 3555's full length with 200gr up front fly great.
Way too stiff.
The impact points between the bare shafts and the fletched shafts is what is important. If both are grouping well together then move back from 12 yards to 20 yards and shoot the bare shafts versus fletched shafts. If they are grouping together at 20 yards, then you should be good to go. If not, then make the proper adjustments. Keep in mind that you can only tune as well as you can execute good and consistant form. The bottom line is how well your BH's shoot with respect to your fletched shafts. Seems after retuning my set-up for BH's, then I have better flight from both my fletched and bare shafts. Often times I forgo bareshafting and go straight to tuning my BH's relative to my fletched shafts.
I would also say you have to stiff an arrow..
According to Stu's calculator you can cut the arrows down to 30" and use a 100gn insert, keep the 200gn broadhead, and both values, bow and spine, are equal @ 41,5.
Hope this solves your problem :)
with everyone saying too stiff, I put some 250 gr field tips on my arrows and shot again. This is the way they are grouping now, should I go to
300 gr?
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs054.ash2/36070_1191214197368_1738773085_377863_6683046_n.jpg
Heavier tip or 35/55's.
It appears that the springy rest is adjustable.
If that is the case, then your issue may be resolved by screwing in the side plate(springy rest). Moving the side towards Zero or past center greatly increases the spine required. You might adjust the springy rest a couple of revolutions and retest to verify you are making progress. Then continue to adjust to obtain what you want. As you get close, then adjustments will be very small.
I'll try that tomorrow, thanks. I'll move the rest to the right, looks like I could go about 1/4". Thanks!
I think your too stiff as well. I'm shooting the same arrow cut the same length out of a 58@28 recurve with 350gr up front. But what puzzles me in your setup is the fletched and bare shafts hitting in the same spot. How big a spot are we talking about?Are the bare shafts on one side and the fletched on the other?hmmmm
Swampdrummer, when I started this process, they were sliding into the same group, usually withing 2-3" of each other, but with the nocks at much different angels. It may have been my form (probably was). Now my fletched aren't kicking right out of the bow so badly, but the bare shafts are hitting left, and slanting nock right. Off to work, more tinkering this afternoon.
I got to shoot this afternoon, missed last night due to chores. After I moved my rest so the arrow is centered, my unfletched are landing about 3-4" left of the fletched arrows, even when I upped the field tip to 250gr. Looks like I'm in the market for new arrows.... :banghead:
Do you still have any room to move the rest in past center?
maybe a .25 inch...
Cottonmouth,
You have a great deal of room to increase the dynamic spine requirement for the bow. Continue to adjust the springy rest past center(toward the riser) 1/16" at a time and retest. The beauty of an adjustable side plate rest is that it permits tuning a much larger range of arrow spines.
Good luck you will get there!
Try some 35/55 shafts. They'll work. :thumbsup:
Way over spined and your pushing to extremes to tune the wrong arrow to your equipment.
Switch to GT3555 if GT are your arrow preference
Download Stu's Spine calculator
http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/
Then read and reread: Tuning the recuve/longbow
http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Happy tuning.
Found a test set of Axis ST shafts I got from 3R, cut the 400 to 30.5 and put a 200 gr field tip on it, they group as well as my form will allow, about 2-3". Whaddya think?
Those 2-3" groups were 12 yds, no fletching